VB-

^ i wouldnt say they are best. they're good, but are most natably better when doing lots of little tacks. for normal welding, and even doing a few tacks, normal $12 screens are fine. i use a normal $12 BOC special all day, every day. i've used those full auto masks, and even the grand daddy $2,000 one with all the air venting/circulation. my preference for use is the same order i mentioned them in. i rkn those cheap shitheaps of the best thing out, very simple, light, cheap to replace when you smash them as i do (i'm both accident prone and an angry c*nt). the auto masks are good, but i find them a bit uncomfortable at times, and occasionally you have issues with the battery dying mid-weld. which leads to angry throwing of screen, and replacement (why cheap ones rule). the big daddy 2k one is a dead set c*nt. very heavy, and the hose down the back tugs on it if you try to lean the wrong way, left me with a really sore neck after an hour or so welding. not to mention the waste band only just fit me (i'm a big fat angry c*nt) and a couple of times i farted, and because that fan thing is around your waist, with the intake on your lower back, it sucked the smell straight in and blew it all over my face. ahhhh dick! clear lense on the outside of the dark lense, to pretect it. if you flip it up to grind things, put a clear lense on both sides of the dark lense. MIG welding, preperation is the key! machine settings are priority, cleanliness of the steel less, but still worth doing. depending on what material you have, fresh steel will usually have a layer of mill scale on it, alot of people dont bother with it, but it does make a fair difference to grind this back before you weld. as you weld over mill scale, it will sort of pop and crackle, and make the weld a bit shitty. for some reason most people ignore cleanliness of the steel unless they are TIGing Alu. as for settings, you really need someone to be there and tell you what to do. as a starting point, run a weld using a slowish speed and try and keep your angles and speed consistent. if its really convex, your volts are too low or your amps (wire speed) is too high. if its really concave, volts too high, amps too low. you want it fairly flat, slightly convex, with good washing on either side (NOT undercut) google both and look at the difference. listen! when its going right, you will hear a sort of crackling sound. imagine throwing a steak on a hot bbq, its a bit like that sizzling sound other things to look for, depends on which brand/type of wire you use. i generally look for a nice bright silver colour of the weld itself, and a very fine layer a spatter that doesnt really stick to the parent metal, its like a fine layer of very heavy dust almost. dont worry about these too much though, get the shape of the weld right first. Arc welding is actually a lot easier when you get some practice, because you can see the arc and steel melt. with the MIG, you can have your settings 'right' and have a beautiful smooth weld, thats even, but hasnt actually bitten in to the parent metal, its more or less sitting on top

yeah seen at least one in aus, dark coloured one. was in HPI a few years back. i dont see whats so special about it though, its a light tuned NA 4 door...........

i welded my diff last thursday, thats pretty easy to understand too

how many cops know the colour of injectors off the top of their head? they can get you just as bad for other shit as they can for injectors, your wasting your time

i thought microtecs werent so bad these days? why dont you like em?

sorry, wasnt directed at you specifically.

lag = physical time it takes for a turbo to spool when its in its operating rpm band, what you guys are referring to is actually boost threshold (what rpm the turbo spools at) i remember reading about the sts kit ages ago, the designer/engineer or some shit said that becuase there was the same mass in exhaust gas, it could spool a turbo all the same, just with a smaller rear to compensate for the lower volume (due to heat loss), or something along those lines anyway.

thought about this myself, just cbf putting a turbo on my car yet. my plan of attack: old side mount skyline cooler cut down as the 'core'. from what i've seen on some other w2a coolers, they work in a reverse fashion to a a2a. where normally charge air flows through the 'runners', and you have ambient air flowing across the tube/fins, w2a will have the charge air running through the fins/across tubes, and have the water running through the 'runners'. and therein, i believe, lies the secret to w2a coolers, slowing the water down enough, that it has time to suck the heat out of the charge air, much like a thermostat does to your engine coolant. this is where your blanking/diversion plates would come into effect. think of trying to make the intercooler work like a 3 pass radiator (although i couldnt tell you the optimal number of 'passes') you will also notice that w2a coolers generally have very low pressure drop, (because the charge air isnt being squashed down to run through the small runners) and are a relatively small size for the cooling capacity, (coz water is cold n shit) i was going to use an old air con condensor, just coz i have one sitting around. it is quite large compared to most of the 'radiators' that come with w2a coolers, so should work fine. if you do it habib spec and go cheap on the pump, just make sure its mounted at a lower height to the water tank, as the cheaper pumps tend not to generate much vaccum before itself, only pressure after. another thing is to decide when you want to run the pump. some genuine street cars only run them when they are on boost, some cars dont run a pump at all (drag cars using ice mostly). personally if it was me, i'd just have a crankin flat out, mostly coz im lazy though.... i know its hard to find info, but most of this ^ came straight off google, so keep looking around. have a look around on theturboforums another option is a cheap w2a core off ebay, which for a couple of hundred bucks, have been proven to go 800hp+ edit - be careful, and if you make one yourself, make sure you take your time and do it good. there is a thing with w2a coolers, they sometimes explode, and when they do, they go bang in a big way. theres a vid flaoting around somehwere of a drag racer in the U.S. that had one mounted in the cabin (very common thing) and it went bang, granted it was at like 40psi. long story short, he started his run in a nice camaro/corvette/mustang/cantf*ckingremember, and before he crossed the line it was a convertable. it didnt put a hole in the roof or anything, it just blew the whole thing off

pretty sure theres already a thread on this

should be 53 teeth on the belt between the two dots on the gears. pretty sure it was 53, google will find you the exact name

was still on 12psi from memory. i've got the original dvd's laying around somewhere here

might wanna state things like what housings, or wheel sizes (esp with the to4 which is pretty broad term)

they dont always check, but will still ping you for it. mate of mine got done for ECU because the cop assumed there was an aftermarket unit in there.

comparitively speaking. the motor was built in the states, because it was cheaper than buying the parts, sending em over here, then doing it all here. dont recall what turbo(s) on it, but pretty sure its just a basic single carb, blow thorugh setup jake edwards built/tuned it afaik

still makes over 2000 at the flywheel, just has issues getting any of it to the wheels lol

great bit of kit, get one. not specifically for diesels yes quick enough to tune

has been done on one of my cars. was looped not blocked

tailshaft, which then took the gearbox with it

when did they get a dyno?

sick car, and aparently 'budget' built

leak down test results?

lol @ geting caught with a 191km/h head start on the cop.

why drop a 1uz in? you guys cant see any reason for adding 25% capacity with a motor thats also over engineered from the factory AND being built up with forged internals......

dose ftw. no BOV, big front mount, steel pipe off the turbo. the loud high pitched dose is normally curteousy of a 2.5" straight pipe straight off the turbo, when you start adding bends, and go to bigger pipes, the sound normally gets deeper. the AFM being moved to the cooler piping is to stop stalling from the air reverberating through the AFM

so what are YOU doing on a US based Z forum craved? good tech/fab sections on there or anything? can you still get those push-pull guns? havent really seen em around (bar the ancient ones floatin round the shop/at trade school)