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VB-

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Everything posted by VB-

  1. so, just a thought, what is the load rating/max weight allowed on a dyno dynamics/mainline dyno? should be just wide enough from the ones i've seen (dunno measurements), main thing i would worry about is those Alu ramps that most dynos seem to use go ask Ray at RE to be the test bed lol?
  2. 1.5 litre motor pushing ~900kw from memory. obviously there are very few people who know for sure, but a few 'experts' have summised that the fuel they were running was prodominantly toulene, octane rating ~150 somewhere i think. cbf looking it up. Mafia, what is WMI?
  3. hey pat, no idea where you'd go for that but definately let us know the results cheers, Ben PS - did you work out what was causing that vibration through your car?
  4. go to bunnings and buy some tulene and mix up your own race fuel
  5. mate of mine blew his at 12psi, after less than 10,000km. car was bought stock with what seemed to be genuine 60k on the clock, he did exhaust, front mount, PFC and boost, and he very rarely drove it on boost, he drives worse than any old woman i've ever seen. so it really is russian roulette
  6. i would change the cooler for sure, but if your still getting 19psi in the manifold, should be making more power than 260hp. have you got a plot of boost etc. you may have an actual boost leak also, have you checked all clamps etc?
  7. i'm willing to bet he's in the US, meaning '93' is actualy about 98 by our standards (give or take a bit)
  8. without knowing for sure, i wouldnt htink so. leak would let exhaust gas escape, not change its physical properties. sounds like you have a serious issue though with your A:F ratio's. have you calibrated the sensor recently? how old is th sensor? what brand wideband?
  9. cost to do so is outweighed by the fact that so few people wouldn't buy them like that, not from them anyway. its not worth there time and emissions might be an issue aswell
  10. if you want to remap your computer, wideband is probly the most important tool to have, apart from a knock sensing device
  11. yeah reliability isnt a problem with good stainless mani's, although i would like to see what heat retention is like between mild and some thick, high grade stainless
  12. what turbo? it may be possible with adjustable cam gears/tuning, but so many things can change how early a turbo spools, like headwork, i've seen this go both ways, sometimes bringing power on earlier, sometimes later etc
  13. what impedence are the injectors?
  14. whats available in the form of a remap for auto R34's? i dont think nistune supports it? or are you talking about burning eproms?
  15. quality post ^
  16. yeah i got my one from autobarn, think its a gregories. has most things, is missing some, biggest drama is that it doesnt have a glossary and the index isnt very specific so some things, the bigeest drama is actually finding em in the book
  17. but you'd still need to set it up using something more reliable wouldnt you? and if you have access to it why not just use it instead of building your own? unless your talking more for long-term install rather then straight tuning. in which case it sounds awesome
  18. i'd be careful with that as the helicoil's with loctite may act as a damper between the sensor and the block... anyone know for sure?
  19. VB-

    Automotive Joint

    your not thinking of the place down near racingline/ice performance? TJS performance or something?
  20. yeh and the guy was wrongly accused of stealing a bag (thats why he got bashed) then they found out it wasnt him... what a f*cking waste of a young life, its sickening
  21. best computer = motec best computer for you = power fc or nistune remap
  22. you cant get normal rego for it, you'd be able to get club rego for it with a limited number os km's (sucks if you wanted it to be your daily lol)
  23. basically, you only need the SAFC, wire it up, tune it AFAIK. unit itself is like 350 (cant remember exactly, never really looked into em)
  24. maybe if you let the RTA crash test it you could get it registered?
  25. nah ones i saw were hand made from pipe and steam-pipe-esque bends although yes i too would opt for actual steam pipe
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