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VB-

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Everything posted by VB-

  1. why do you want titanium specifically? theres a massive shortage of it world wide and your gonna have alot of trouble finding any, and if you do, better lube up before you ask the price
  2. 2 doors are worth a shitload more, most i've seen are kept pretty neat and people want like 10k for em. with the silo, i think it was mostly styling, 15" wheels, and an LSD as standard. i think your prob is your location, i was looking at a 31 the other day, manual, seemed in pretty good nick (from pics) for $1000
  3. yeah you should be all in by about 4000rpm with that turbo. take a look at the plot for boost, it just keeps climbing and climbing till redline, it should shoot straight up as early as possible, then hold flat at 16psi till redline (ideally, you wont get it perfect but should be able to get it damn close) has your stock ECU been chipped or is it just a standard computer? i would expect with all those other mods that its at least remapped, if not, then you've really gone off track buying all those other mods and this should be addressed immeadiately, without management all you've done is thrown away your money till this point. what size are your injectors? 1. invest in a fuel pump 2. sort out the boost issue, do you have an electronic controller? 3. get the A:F ratio flat at 12:1 till redline 4. get it tuned properly. i dont know the specifics of your mods and what you told your tuner you wanted done, but it really does seem like a rush job (dare i say it, a poor effort?) did you ask for a tune or just a power run? if tune, who did it? (this assumes you got remap at least)
  4. i'd be more worried about the shape of the boost plot( looks like that of a centrifugal supercharger), although it seems like your running out of fuel in the top end. your running standard injectors i would assume? seems like a big hump in the middle where it leans out, what sort of management are you using? PS, how much power are you making? the graph says ~170 but you sy 240? your overall power curve seems a bit peaky also... more specs on your setup overall?
  5. what valve springs are you using just out of curiosity?
  6. kinda defeats the purpose of the thread...
  7. your gonna have trouble, by the time you've got enough power/heat to melt the rod, its gonna destroy 1.6mm steel, ideally you'd tig weld it. get to your nearest blackwoods, they've got tig torches on speacial atm for like $63, disposable bottle of gas is like $30, add in some tungsten/filler rods and your TIG ready for under $100. if you cant tig weld learn quick lobster back bends, although most people will tell you its a waste when you add up all the time it takes, and cost of your consumables, when you can buy bends for like $20. as for where to run the pipe, maybe just tack it piece by piece and see how you go? lol dont know how else
  8. linky no worky
  9. VB-

    Rwc Needed

    yellow pages wont tell you who does dodgies, people on SAU will PS: put up a list of mods or things that need some sympathy towards, different places let different things slide
  10. oh yeah sorry, i was talking about my case, i might be putting another standard RB30e into my vl
  11. i've done more searching and since found out the rear heater hose outlet is different (apparently). no biggie though
  12. seen its heaps of times, when it isnt strapped down tight enough, it will climb off the rear roller and make it read higher as all that force is going straight through one roller instead of two, although i think the resistance is apllied through that one roller, it still seems to make quite a difference. that said, you should be making more than 220 IMO (yes i know every dyno is different and they are a tuning tool not a yard stick, it should still read higher than 220)
  13. i wanna see the wing..... on the trailer
  14. too much f*cking around to go with those injectors, RB30 use hosetail type injectors, so you'll need a custom/aftermarket rail, then you gotta make sure you got the right impedence (dunno what skylines use) and then remap. just buy bigger straight fit ones and remap IMO. stock VLT injectors will top out just shy of 200rwkw (although a few have gone over 200) and that should be enough for 'cheap' drifting
  15. try a proper electronics joint that repairs tv's/radios etc
  16. also heard hungry jacks trays last longer than maccus ones... but yeh do your own testing lol
  17. just saw it on the news, but dunno what its about? its probly been posted on here already but im not having much luck. i must say quite assertively... 'lol!'
  18. issat the one james (i think) is part of? p1? whats his affiliation with the club anyway?
  19. ^ your joking right?
  20. shopping trolley. might have to address the steerig issue first though....
  21. yeah lol thats probly my fav, it went for aggeeesssss. boy got skillz, love his big cheesy grin while hes doing it too
  22. 200 is cheap, dont f*ck around with shit bearings, just go ACL IMO. edit - in retrospect, if your getting the bottom end REALLY cheap, it might seem stupid to spend so much on bearings, ring nissan or bursons and see how much they want for cheapo ones
  23. sorry had a quick look but didnt know where? just browsed the wasteland quickly...
  24. just saw a quick clip on the news, dont know if any body on here would know the name but he was big time in NHRA, up there with names like John Force http://www.freep.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article...670/1048/SPORTS
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