VB-

R31, welded/spooled diff, s13 coilovers all round, strip the motherf*cker bare, remove all sound deadening, seats, spare parts, dash/heaterbox/aircon if your real serious. when you get comfortable with it, go buy a standard VLT conversion and front mount cooler + boost controller, easy 150rwkw. car with basic mods - ~2000-2500, extra for turbo kit - 2k will cover it easy KE70/AE71, welded diff, heavy springs all round and shocks to suit, sigma lower control arms, steering/tied rod ends off a RT140 celica.... i think? and again, strip it bare. once your comfortable with that, 4age conversion is in order. basic car with mods - 1500ish, and about 2-3k for a conversion i rkn the real important thing here that you neglected to mention was, does the car need to be kept registered or can you trailer it?

it ran as fast as 7.67, and it did that like 8 years ago, your a bit behind the times mate also heat treatments GTR has gone quicker again if you werent aware

gearbox should bolt straight up, i believe the smaller RB motors and the RB30E use a ~9.5" flywheel and clutch to suit, it was the RB30ET that had the 10" and skyline boxes wouldnt clear the clutch properly i dont know if your asking what box to use or if yours will fit, but im gonna guess you've got an RB20 box which will fail quite early on if driven hard. i dont see any point in just swapping to an RB30 bottom end, and the RB20 head doesnt really flow all that much more than the RB30's SOHC, you'd probly be better off just bolting in the RB30 providing you can get the loom adn ecu, unless the laws over there wont let you

very interested to know this myself, i've currently got a VL with a rooted head, and can source another complete motor cheap from an R31 from what i've read they are the same with oil and water fittings, althought i read something that said the heater hoses were different fittings, one was 3/4 one wasw 5/8. but this was from an RB30DET guide/site and it just said commodore and skyline block, so i dont know if he was talking about the RB25 that he sourced the head from.... anyone know?

never heard of them, but where are they based? have you already ordered it? if so its a bit late to be asking now isnt it?

sounds like you mighta lost spark in a cylender or two

i've only heard good thigns about protek

yeah who tuned it? peak power is NEVER made south of 12:1 (as determined by some scientist guys somewhere) and 12:1 is generally still considered a nice safe A:F ratio, and what alot of tuners will aim for. IMO 10.5:1 is rediculiously rich. does i only ping in the top end? if you can, take a couple of degrees out of it and give it a try again, although 17-18 degrees is pretty common. before any of that, check base timing, heaps of tuners dont do this, they just start tuning.

12.9 isnt dangerous if you have timing to match, which out of a stock ECU shouldnt be too bad, but still dont drive it hard, i'd get it tuned properly first. that said i have seen cars (R34 GTR is the first one that comes to mind) that came out of racepace and was on a dyno elsewhere, its A:F ratio was 13:1 up top, and i believe thats just how it was tuned. i quizzed the dyno operator on it and said he'd seen it a few times from racepace adn it works fine, just less margin of error for crap fuel etc. point is, i wouldnt say its bad if racepace is doing it (that said i could be entirely wrong lol)

cant you just use an RB20 one?

u took the lock out and didnt put it back in? so theres still a hole in there? if so there should be a rod/lever of some sort the attaches to the back of the lock, just pull it in every direction and the boot should pop open? if not, rip the back seats out (or fold em down if you can)

what do you want done? maybe take it to a normal workshop?

you'll be looking at about $10 a litre for race fuel if you buy retail. be careful when using avgas, as its leaded (from memory...) and will destroy your cat. this applies to heaps of race fuels aswell. also you technically need a pilots licence to buy avgas, i think a cams licence may be good too, cant remember now as for mixing avgas, i've heard of people doing it, cant see any issue with it, but there may be, maybe someone else on here can confirm?

i took mine apart about 3 hours ago (stupid VL with stupid cooling system setup, blew a stupid headgasket.....stupid) bolt came free real easy for me, little to easy..... but anyway. try the starter method, but before that, try what i did, i just got a socket and breaker bar, had it facing straight up, and put my foot against it, then braced myself against the car, hard to explain but just try it, you can put heaps of pressure on it with your foot, or just kick the f*cking thing till it cracks free

does it have 2 on every piston, or are they 1-6? sorry not helping any just interested myself. mates got a spare bottom end but its sitting at a shop... i remember looking up close but cant rememebr numbers

still looks better than clear tail lights most of them seem to cop, but just buy an N/A skyline

93 octane fuel? are you in the US?

do you mean anti-surge comp cover?

ok badly worded, its not too small obviously, but its forcing too much air in too early, near enough the same shit

when you say chuffing? do you mean compressor surge? turbo may be too small for the motor. if you have an electronic boost controller, you may be able to bring the boost on later. as for AFM's, its tuning resolution, air goes through the AFM, and voltage increases with more air going through, problem with the stock one is it reaches max voltage with not alot of air going through it, so when you start moving more air (with a GT30) the ECU wont know because the AFM tops out too early. clear as mud?

yeah i'm mistaken i think, was ages ago i was talking to the tuner and may have been talking bout something else (R32 RB25 head, for another car)

be interresting to see results on this. there is a guy on here, a trader selling these now, saying they are good for over 300rwkw, mate of mine just finished his build, and his AFM tops out just shy of 5000rpm (RB30DET, GT35R). on only 16psi its still topping out relatively early, and although its a 30 and GT35R, i'd still say its one of the 'low power' AFMs

could be the wrong sort of nut for the rim. friend of mine has 18's on her car, one was flat so i took it off and put the spare on, but used the same wheel nuts off the 18's, did it up in the right sequence with a wheel brace and they were tight as f*ck. i did it just so i could back the car into my driveway (all of 20ft) and at the end of that drive i undid them all, completely with no effort at all, with my fingers, they were loose as good ol' Paz Hilton. i suspect a similar thing happened there, either that or they were only finger tight to begin with

ok im in doubt now, it may be a series one. can you get a better pic of where the oil drain is (if you know) or just a better pic of that same side of the block ^oil return is in the block, its that black area just to the bottom left of the '67S'. for the thread starter, this is what i wanted the pic of, does it have a big square in the midle of it like for a ratchet to fit into?

LPG has a much higher octane rating than any mainstream fuel on the market ^