VB-

i believe it used to be up around the 110-114 mark, but now its more like 104, but quality varies from servo to servo (no idea whose got the best)

cut it off at the original position and weld in a bit of flat plate to make it flat the whole way down the side, cut a big hole in the 'front' of the plenum, maybe add a small section of pipe, weld it on again

so do you live in aus or japan (both)? what do you do for a living if in japan?

lol i completely forgot about Gas

skylines chassis would be a better design/stiffer. i say would be as obviously its a bit hard to do back to back testing, but theres been heaps of cases where VL's have run 11's (some faster/some slower) and you cant open the back doors for like half an hour after the run lol

it is not 100% organisers fault, he has a massive part in taking the blame, he was driving the f*cking car, do you honestly believe he didnt know the risks? obviously it was unexpected but things like that DO happen. however, i do not see him as a bad person, he does not deserve to go up for murder and i wish him all the best

i think theres more likely some form of miscommunication, but will be checking it soon

looks like series two to me, and as far as i know, yes same stud pattern, just bigger studs on the GTR

2jz's have gone over 1800 i think. one guy, 'marko' made over 1500rwhp in his street car. the shop that built it basically told him 'let us wind the boost right up (was like 59psi) and make it go bang, to find its weak point' but it didnt let go... just made stupid power

friend of mine just had his built at a shop, the guy there said nothing was done to the head, that theres no oil feed for the VCT, it was just unplugged.....? PS was a NEO head

yeah but i just stole it straight off another forum, didnt click till i already posted so meh

LOL @ TOLL trucks imagine fuel costs on a 90l motor hahah

sorry, hate the new kits on old cars, and i dont like kits on VL's at all, but it does seem reasonably well done...

drift, bitches, and high end italian cars, do you actually need anything more in life?

V6's have a much shorter crank, which should add to strength i think, but obviously theres alot of other factors which contribute to that too V6's are also more compact, so they can fit into smaller cars, and theres some reason that they are better for emissions apparently.

no no no, i meant RB30et, with the money you spend on an RB20 conversion, would have used that to turbo the orignal motor, and then some, replacement motors are $100 when they go bang.

^ rather spend $100 on an RB30 than 500 on an RB20

woops, i meant oil, but yeah, im partially colour blind so its all white-ish to me lol

^dude the car should run without an AFM at all, shouldnt stop it starting. just unplug the AFM alltogether if you think it might be a problem

just buy wider rims IMO, alot of people i have heard have said its dodgy also, althou those i've seen with it done didnt seem to have dramas, but i still dont like the idea either

just to clarify... white smoke yes?

put your care on a set of scales, i cant see it being only 1100kg, dont go off what vicroads/the manafacturere tells you your car weighes either, alot of the time its dry weight, or just too low people will drop a perfectly good 20 for a 25 if they are chasing decent power, like 250rwkw+, or even if they just want a nicer car to drive. adding 25% more capacity and the torque that comes with it will make it heaps better to drive off boost, and give heaps more mid range torque, by the sounds of it, something you werent taking note of, sounds more like you were just holding it flat and seeing how fast it was, pointless for everyday driving (well, everyday driving when cops are around/your in school zones)

why are you going to run a safc if your getting a remap?

compresor atm, but nothing needs to be done soon, just browsing. but yeah i like lookin at different things anyway, i got heaps of stuff i wanna buy but no money, i can still dream though. silverwater road is a bit far for me though.... i'm kinda 1000km south

you might not see it as being worth it swapping from your 20 now to a 25, but starting fresh, for the extra outlay the 25 would be worth it. $1000 for .5 sec off your e.t is extremely good value for money. and as you said yourself, both are nearly stock, every mod you add, the gap widens. so if your aiming for 250+rwkw, thats when you will see that its becomes worth it to swap from the 20 to the 25. anyway, for the point of the thread, dont buy the other car and f*ck around doing more motor swaps, build a 30DET, you should still even be able to use everything you got now, ie loom/computer/manifolds (providing you use the right head), just build the motor, and go do some skids lol