VB-

how can you guys watch that faces of death shit, i really dont understand it? what enjoyment do you get out of watching people get killed, in what i've heard, are some really f*cked up ways? bloodlust that isnt satisfied by national geographic or what?

i was reffering to piston slap when motor isnt up to temp. i thought the piston bouncing around the bore may cause a higher knock reading, as i've seen a few motors that knock heaps when they arent up to tmep, although it may be something with correction values in the mapping, i'm not sure, hence i asked

wire it up and play with it

do the RB25/6 ones work on the same voltage scale as the RB30 one? might just be able to use a 30 item?

are ou letting it really warm up before giving it a thrash? i noticed with my mates car even though hes been driving it for a bit, its not fully warm and reads quite high knock, forged internals wont help either, as they have a tendancy to *knock* when cold, however havent seen how this effects knock sensors directly, anyone know? *not pre-ignition or detonation, more ratling around in the cylender*

it can vary, there are ones with large resolution and some without. mate of mine has one of the low ones, tops out just below 5000rpm (GT35R, RB30DET). if you get one of the 'high' reading ones i think its prettys imilar to a Z32, but just stick with the Z32 as its a known thing

definately keen to hear how it goes, as opposed to stethascope/det cans and even other forms of electronic knock detection is its available

yeah the AFM shouldnt stop it starting. check if you have spark/fuel first and work from there

X2, stainless isnt a problem, infact i've noticed recently alot of race cars (i've ben lookin at US ones) have been using them, but obviously thicker/of a higher grade

looks promising, bu i wonder how accurate it is... nobody really seems to use there stuff though, so its hard to get a decent review. i've only heard of one or two people using the ignition system, one said it was quite succesful (LPG setup, but others said when you add up all the costs of various components, you can afford more of a known thing. dont suppose it has any form of adjustment for frequency? it will revolutionize the tuning world when someone markets a an actual monitor for knock that has capabilities to display a set figure/sign for knock, but this really doesnt do that. ionization current ftw! PS - for that money i'd make a set of det-cans, wayyyy more accurate adn reliable (providing you are)

you can try it to get it cancelled, but they still have your name and adress on it, so best to expect the worst

might need to change comp to something that local tuners are more familiar with. thing is, (based on my understanding) the basic principles of tuning are universal, you do the same sorta thing with any computer/car, any decent tuner should be able to tune any car with any computer, for it to be in the situation it is now, sounds like there may be a problem somewhere

well its a chance your new motor has done a big end too, back to my previous question, auto or man? i've seen a few commodores that emit a knocking sound, not unlike that of a big end, but i think it was the flex plate imporperly tightened or somethign similar

is it auto or manual?

i had tought about mentioning GT30, i think cubes runs one? but its mixes results, some say it comes on too hard too early and just results in wheel spin, obviously it will yeild more low down torque, but its too much? edit - just read a post of cubes saying its very linear.... and doesnt reult in wheel spin, GT30 might be an option

if you really shim it up, it shoudlnt be as bad as a locked diff, but will still churp quite often on tight bends. that said i dont see locked diffs as 'bad', infact my minispool was the best $100 i ever spent on my car

^ X2. for a shop, why waste the time to TIG it when you just give it a quick zap round the outside. wont effect performance, durability shouldnt be effected too much (almost nothing when you consider how long people keep there cars for) now look at how much money they would lose if they did TIG it, every weld would take twice as long (I'm being generous here), you would use twice the gas, more power (higher elec bill) etc. its measurable on one exhuast, so think about how much it would add up over time if all you did was exhaust work also left out the bit about TIG welders getting payed more than MIG welders (not always but as a general rule they do), but you get the idea

well i've been way off on alot things lately so make sure you get a second opinion, but i'll give you a start where i can 1. cant remember, someone told me you can use either, but i get a feeling you need the twin cam one - i know that wasnt much help (told you you'd need a second opinion) 2. for a street car, use standard cams. i think Ben (racepace) put standard cams back in his race car after having larger ones in there, thats saying something? 3. copper gaskets, not much first hand experience, but in theory - good because they conduct heat well, meaning less chance of heatspots forming on the ring of the gasket, bad because they can have issues with seepage 4. probly not for lower power levels, and i *think* thats mainly for copper gaskets???? someone confirm that for me 5. cometic is better (MLS gaskets) 6. is it in good condition? see how much you can get a new one for, its cheap insurance really 7. you cant count lol 8. GT35R

whose the tuner also if you dont mind mentioning? that may tell some more of the story...

gives us cliff notes. was he actually going that fast? if so, then why? if not why did the cops get a wrong reading?

R32 GTS-t with GTR guards, looks gay as aids and price is currently JUST shy of 1mil

nistune doesnt support R33 and R34, maybe because of the VCT? are you going with bigger cams and/or adjustable gears? i've seen a few builds that had no real benefit from VCT, one even had stock cams, just adjustable wheels. dont quote me on that, do some more research. but if you can afford to lose it, would make it simpler, just use the R32 loom with RB20 ECU

lol suppose im in a different boat (VL). when it blows a headgasket, head off, new $30 gasket on. even then its only a new one coz they're cheap

depending on what head your using, use either the RB20 or RB26 loom/ecu. these are both available with nistune daughter boards (real time tuning) and will make everything straight plug in (if your using an R33 RB25 head, i THINK the RB20 loom can be modified to suit, not sure on this though)

you get a whole shipping container? so you can put as much stuff in it as you want? blocks like that are very easy to get over here, very cheap too, but will be hard to find someone who is willing to get it to the docks/onto the ship. because they are so cheap, its too much effort for something so worthless here