mad082

if you tighten the bolts all the way and you can still wobble it then you need to put spacers in it to make up for not having the cam gear cover.

the single wire is for the gauge in the dash, the double wire is for the ecu.

could be one of the following things: 1: needs new coils 2: needs a new ignitor pack (if it's a series 1 r33) 3: has a faulty temp sensor 4: has an overheating issue 5: has a dodgy fuel pump 6: has a faulty CAS (crank angle sensor) as well as a few others numbers 1, 2 or 6 (not as likely as 1 or 2) are the most likely causes since it seems to be heat related.

you most likely aren't running the stock turbo if you are making that sort of power, even at 13 or 14psi, or your car isn't making that sort of power the dyno sheet is either from the car having more mods or it has been tweaked a bit by using different settings for the run, or is simply a high reading dyno. the turbo could possibly be a highflow unit, which would explain why his has more punch down low. also comes down to the state of the tune on your car, the compression of the engine and many other variables. that said, the stock 33 turbo has a smaller exhaust housing than the neo turbo, so it should spool a little bit quicker.

ok i just went back through most of the posts and i can't see any reference to natro 180's or skylines. is it just because people were saying "sr20" and "rb25"? that can be refering to either turbo or natro since they didn't say DE or DET, and in the context of most of the posts they seem to be talking about turbo ones (especially when mentioning power figures of over 200hp)

you are altering the AFM signal. generally the AFM voltage is used as the load scale and the RPM as the other scale. if you alter the AFM voltage you then alter the load scale and since the timing varies depending on the load, you end up altering the timing. most people don't realise this so if they do it themselves they may get the AFR's right but have the car pinging because they weren't paying attention to it.

if it is a coupe then yes it will fit. also, yes it will be louder than a jet engine and yes it will lose power down low.

i dare say that a lot of the difference comes down to what turbo you are running.

<insert worlds largest facepalm here> when will you morons learn that pulling a turbo off a turbo skyline turns it into one of the slowest cars on the road?

obvious question first, have you checked the thermostat? if not, check that first. the possible causes of overheating are: dodgy thermostat (very common), dodgy clutch (viscous) fan (semi-common), blown head gasket (not that common), worn out water pump (not that common) and a blocked radiator (common and simply flushing it doesn't do a thing). as for thermo vs clutch fan, personally i'd stick with the clutch fan. when they work properly they more than do the job (hence why they were used for so long). if going the thermo route then look at something like an AU falcon setup. i think they only require minimal work to get them to fit and they come with a shroud, etc, and since they are a factory setup (on a car designed for the australian climate) you know that they will work well.

as for what it is currently running now i'd say probably around 10.5:1 at high rpm. tuned you want it around 12:1, however when tuning with a safc you also end up altering the timing so you may not get it that lean. you might only get it to about 11.5:1 before it starts to ping. either way, a tuner should be able to sort it out for you since they will have a wideband o2 sensor to measure it (don't try and tune it yourself without one).

don't forget that the GTS-t has a stronger gearbox, factory LSD, and the key factor, will cost less to buy. put simply, for the money it costs to buy a natro and turbo it you could buy a turbo one, build it up and be making a hell of a lot more power.

good, LOL

the stock ecu often has a slight flat spot at around 4500rpm (most noticable in 3rd gear). this is when the VCT turns off and without an aftermarket ecu is pretty much impossible to get rid of.

it's the TPS plug you disconnect. this drops it into base idle mode and you should be able to wind the idle down. if not then you might want to pull the AAC valve out again and clean it again.

make sure there isn't too much fuel in the tank so you can put some fresh stuff in when you get back. 6 months isn't that long so i wouldn't be too concerned about it. maybe just put some fresh oil in before you go and then change it when you get back.

you only just put a bigger turbo, etc on didn't you? have you had a tune done yet? if not then it is probably running rich as anything and fouling up the plugs, and since you are running an emanage the ecu is probably still seeing excess airflow and backing the timing right off. have you changed the injectors at all (or even just had them out)? may be that one isn't seated properly. could also possibly be a vaccum leak.

do a search on the AAC valve and how to clean it. this is a cause of a lot of stalling issues. also if you have an atmo bov then that will be making the situation worse as well.

must've been a thrashed pulsar or a shit driver, because my SSS pulsar is faster than a natro 33. anywho, i've owned a SR20 powered turbo 180sx as well as driven a CA18 turbo 180sx. in a race situation a SR20 powered 180sx will keep up with a r33. the stock performance times are pretty much identical. mod them and i think they are pretty much the same as well. to drive on a day to day basis they are different though. the skyline has a lot more down low and feels more like a bigger natro car, while the 180sx requires a bit more revs to get up and going. if you throw a t28 ball bearing turbo on the 180sx then that evens things up a bit. with the stock turbo on there you certainly do get more of a rush up around 4000rpm once it really starts to come on song, so you actually get more of a sensation of speed. handling wise the 180 feels more nimble, but the ride is rougher. the skyline feels smoother and more refined, but a bit less sporty.

ahaha, you should go back in and ask for one for a SSS pulsar and see what the price is.

that is correct. the air is travelling at such a speed that it absorbs very little heat from the piping it is running through. this is also why it is of no real concern having the cooler pipe running along the top of the radiator with a fmic. as for the temp prob, it may well take some reading from the plenum rather than the air but i really don't know. either way, i'm not sure if the rb25 has an IAT sensor. pretty sure that the skylines at least, don't.

if you are talking about the rear axles then don't do it. you can simply put them under the diff, but being in the centre it can be a bit unstable. you can go on the K frame though, or anything to do with the suspension really (well anything that looks sturdy)

is there even much difference in the top end?

you will have to face the fact that a NA skyline simply isn't that fast. if you go up against a falcon or commodore with similar mods to you you will lose. i've said this many times on here, but i will say it again (so sorry to those who are sick of hearing it). i had a 3.5L v6 manual magna. with just a cat back exhaust it ran 14.8 at willowbank. it was just the base model executive. there are plenty of vrx versions in the 14.4 to 14.6 bracket with minimal mods (full exhaust).

It really is a case of personal preference. All the xbox fanbois will say forza and all the sony fans wil say gt5. I fit into the second group