mad082

the cost will be somewhat less than a standard turbo upgrade as the cost of getting the exhaust modified will be much less than getting a custom manifold made (since not every car has a factory turbo manifold that will fit). no need to run an intercooler, so that more than covers the extra cost of piping.

could be that the car was getting worked on at some point and they dropped something down around the engine and used that to get what they dropped. then they simply put it where you found it while they continued working and forgot about it.

actually i don't own a skyline anymore. i don't own any cars at the moment.

it is only a NA skyline, nothing special engine wise. something like a semi synthetic 10W-40 or 5W-30 will be more than fine. pretty sure the nissan spec'd oil is only 7.5W-30

could even be late this month. there are pictures surfacing everywhere of the disc and case now (probably either from reviewers or people working in the printing industry), so the ball is definately rolling.

if the timing is retarded then you will be losing power. if the timing is too advanced then it may be pinging and the end result will be a damaged engine requiring a rebuild. if the CAS was setup in pretty much the same location then it should be reasonably right, however i'd still put a timing light on it to be sure.

doesn't really say why it was illegal, so you can't really say that we should stop whinging about RAWS, etc. he may have simply dodged a heap of paperwork on them, and therefore it is illegal importation.

the tune is probably totally different between a 25 and 26 computer and the safc isn't exactly a highly adjustable unit. running an aftermarket ecu from 1 model to the next is different from running a factory ecu, since the aftermarket ecu can be tuned to suit. you may have issues with the throttle body voltage as well. i'd say that you will more than likely have issues with hitting ecu protection even at relatively low boost levels, which you can only prevent for so long with a SAFC. you also couldn't use a factory rb26 ecu because of the fact that the rb25 loom is missing a few sensors, such as the air intake temp, so if you did, it wouldn't run 100%

what was funny was that around the same time as the last delay was announced something else i am waiting on was also delayed by a few weeks. every 2 or 3 weeks it gets delays by another few weeks. now it is available in the country, but only from the the melbourne warehouse and i have to wait until the shipment due into brisbane lands. shits me off cause i sell their stuff in my shop and they won't even send me one from melbourne so that i can ride it round (it's a bike for those of you that don't know i own a bike shop) and advertise their brand. the missus bike has been delayed longer than mine though. there aren't any of hers in the country yet. pretty shit considering the fact that they were originally supposed to land in august.

the other thing to take into consideration is that these aren't hardcore turbo upgrades. they are simply turbo upgrades for NA vehicles to give them a bit more power.

some of the sensors might not work/fit on the 26, so it would end up being more of a nightmare than it's worth. plus the fact that the r33 ecu is probably going to need more than just a safc to get it to run right. i'd go the rb26 loom and ecu route.

that more comes down to which car has a better racing pedigree? it would be the GTR because it has the advantage of 4wd. engine wise the 2jz is a better engine in it's stock form. it will handle more power in it's stock form thanks to having forged internals.

if they did bring out gt6 for the ps3 (and not the next generation console) then it wouldn't take them long to do it. they would just tweak gt5 to add in whatever they didn't get into gt5. they would just use all the texture models of the current stuff and just add a few cars and tracks.

rb20DE are still a pathetic motor. even with a turbo bolted on. skyline may be a pubic hair faster than the supra (0.02 of a second or something like that), but engine wise there are faster 2jz's than rb's. fastest rb powered car i think is in the low 7's. fastest 2jz powered car is mid 6's.

commodore or falcon. you are more than likely going to want to race it in the traffic light grand prix, so you might as well get a car that is A: faster than a natro skyline, and B: when you crash it not going to damage the image of the import scene.

dude it was an RB20. pretty much the worst of the RB engines (and up there on the list of terrible nissan engines). gutless until about 500rpm before the limiter, and even then it is only 'ok'. the only thing rb20 fans can say that's good about it is that it revs really high. big friggin whoop. wow it can make as much power at 8000rpm as a rb25 can at 6000rpm, and at 3000rpm the rb25 will be making about twice the power of the rb20. of course your 1jz will feel like a monster compared to your ceffy. you a comparing a motor with torque with an engine with no torque. not really a valid comparison.

simple, don't vote for any of them

don't think it's going to be related to the engine running rough. it could possibly be an engine mount or a gearbox mount of something like that. the harmonics from the engine at that certain speed is what is causing it and that is why it won't do it at lower speed or different revs in a higher gear. might be worth getting your wheels balanced to see if that helps.

pull off the kick panel on the passenger side and look at the ecu. if it has a nissan sticker on it then it is more than likely still stock and isn't a nistune or anything like that. to tell that for sure though you have to open it up. if it is a full aftermarket ecu it will have the brand name on it.

firstly get a timing light to see what sort of timing you are actually running. it may have been that the timing was retarded to start with and you haven't advanced it much about what it should be.

mate you're a fucking tool. i hope you get pulled over and booked for not having your p-plates on as well as driving a turbo vehicle, that way you should hopefully get a 6 month holiday from driving. you deserve to get pulled over because you have no regard for the law. if you do get booked don't bother having a cry about it on here because we don't care.

yeah i was suprised there wasn't much of a backlash, although anyone who actually knows about cars knows that the toyota engines are better than their nissan rivals. the 1jz is better than the rb25 and the 2jz is better than the rb26. that's not to say the total car is better, just the engines.

pretty sure one of the guys at harvey norman here has one. needless to say he works in the computer section. and he drives a supra, which isn't suprising since a hell of a lot of IT nerds drive imports. pretty much never see one in a commodore. it's usually either lancers or imports.

there are 2 simple rules i would stick to when making a sleeper, no matter what the car. 1: keep it looking as stock as possible. if possible get the biggest factory wheel and put the best tyre on it you can so you don't have to make it stand out by having big wheels. also if need be put base model bumpers, etc on it to hide it even more. 2: mufflers and lots of them also use a dummy exhaust tip if you can. if you can use mufflers to hide some lumpy engine then it adds to the sleeper aspect. if you roll up next to a shitbox at the lights and you can hear a lumpy v8 with twin 3" exhausts that you can hear from 50m away even though it's just idling then it gives it away. if you roll up to the lights next to some factory poo brown datsun with a tissue box and quilted blanket on the parcelshelf sitting on stock steel rims with chrome hubcaps only to have it leave you for dead as you take off a little bit spiritedly then you are going to be shocked.

highly doubt it will be injectors (other than the plug). not ruling it out but i'd put it down the list a bit. if you can run the car with number 1 coil unplugged (but spark plug still in) then remove the plug and it has fuel on it then you know it's not a fuel issue.