Ghostrider

Dear imdaman_5, "i have heard that there are only 4 of these cars roadworthyable in the world?" Possibly correct, the rest of the other 40 odd thousand sold in Oz have probably rusted away, but realistically. someone is having a loan of you. It's about as rare as a Holden Commodore. Cheers & good luck, you might get $600 if you're very lucky. This is the message I sent him through ebay message service on 5th June when I first saw it. Cheers, D

It looks to be a lot of work, putting it back together. Just looking at the body & on the o/s/r turret area, looks like it might have been burnt at one time, which might make it a problem, but if you had the time & space, why not??? it's certainly cheap enough. If it doesn't sell, you might have to compete with Dubai to own it, as that's where the look alike GTR went to for a fair sort of a dollar. Something very collectible if your that way bent. Cheers, D

"There is a PNV slowly rusting away in my friend's garage... it hurt to look at the last time I was over there." This one by chance?

The PNV in Canberra, the ex Ravenoak car has just been sold, unregistered for a tad over $5000.00

Sorry! but when did any R34 become a classic ??????????????????????

And your in Adelaide sort of eh? Well Jess, as there is only 3 confirmed to be in Australia, it's a very limited market your trying to sell to. Someone needs to want to own it to have it be worth much at all. There is mine, which will never be for sale and the other is in Canberra and he can't get any offers over $4500-5000.00 so I guess you wont be parting with it for that, so there lies the problem. I bought mine for $5000.00 about 3 years ago, but "I wanted one, not particularly a PNV but a 2 door R30 Skyline" with just 3 days rego on it, from the guy that imported it, so mine has had just 2 owners since 1997 when it started it's new life in Australia and it's been garaged all of that time. What sort of K's does it have on the clock and what were you sort of expecting? Cheers, D

And I think I have the DOHC RS badge somewhere if anyone is interested? D

"? so non of them were black rather realy dark blue standard?" I think you will find the colour code is 826, whatever that turns out to be.

Tightening sequence is as follows: 14 10 6 2 4 8 12 13 9 5 1 3 7 11 Procedure, as per manual is: (1) Tighten all bolts to 29Nm or 22ft/lb, (2) Tighten all bolts to 78Nm or 58ft/lb, (3) Loosen all bolts completely, (4) Tighten all bolts same as (1), (5) Tighten all bolts to between 74-83Nm or 54-61ft/lb. Run the car for a while and re tighten if required. Cheers, D

I don't have any idea of the FJ20 parts but I would suggest you look at FJ20.com for the bits you seek. The boots around the leads I would suggest are part of the leads and not a spare part as such. The half moon parts you seek, might be very similar to that of the KA24E from U12 Pintara, so it might be worth taking a sample along to your nearest Nissan dealer to make some comparisons. Nissan have a habit of recycling parts from other models. Cheers, D

They are faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarkin expensive! I got head & main studs for that much money and from US. Just have to search the net for the best deal. Stud kits for sure are the best, but your not building a high HP motor. Guska, for what you want, use the standard set your taking out and the ones from PnPL and use the most matched out of both sets.

The head number is cast in the head and you will find it near the face between spark plugs 1 & 2. As MAG86 said, for ease of everything, increase compression and have no machining other than maybe a clean up, get the late model S2 L24E head N47. Your experience with the holden motors should tell you if it has had a blown head gasket which will be a good guide. Cheers, D

I'm about to embark on this project too. Does anyone know where I can get 36mm exhaust valves to suit the P90 head? I have all the trick bits, so I'm expecting some real good HP numbers when this 2818cc L20ET is finished. Cheers, D

If it doesn't look like a banana, 0.010 will be miles, but you're still going to have to pack up the cam towers no matter what you take off. Some of the guys in the states have removed 0.060 - 0.080 from what they tell me, but they pack up the cam towers after and also use over sized lash pads. Cheers, D

He's going to Pick n Payless at Blacktown NSW for the parts. That might be right on the 44mm inlet valve with the 83mm bore. The exhaust is the same size at 35mm. Probably best to look for a late model R30 head off an 84/85 series 2 which also might increase your compression a tad, because they had a 9:1 compression. Sorry! but I'm sure I put something about the R30 head compression comparisons here yesterday. Must be going senile? Cheers, D

You will need the external oiler that comes with the head you got the cam from if it doesn't have internal facility. Cheers, D

"george b is a dumb a$$ to swap the PNV for that 4 door sh1tter.... we all know that!" Not exactly what some people call him these days. The words little and other 4 letter words that start with C come to mind fairly frequently. By the way, he sold the HR30 sedan and pocketed the money, never paid anyone for the parts he got or anything else. He was all hot air n wind and just promises, promises and more promises. He now owns a Honda, that looks like a pimps car. Cheers, D

Mine is in Sydney, but the state is not that ........................ these bloody mexican's have no idea eh! lol

You will be very .................. I would go as far as saying, extremely lucky to find hot plate R30 tail lights at PnPL, as they were an JDM only product. For Hotplate tail lights you would best be looking in ebay or contact SSS on 98966111 and they are going to cost you about $150 pair. The wiring is only what's on the light, to suit your harness. You might have to exchange the wiring off your standard lights to the hotplate lights so it connects to your rear harness, you don't need to hack off a load of cable & pocket it. Just adjust the rockers/tappets accordingly to 0.010 for both inlet & exhaust if you need to shave your head. Yes! the N42 280ZX head is off an injected motor. Would not have suggested it if it wasn't & yes it's a straight swap. All L series motors are the same external dimensions and therefore interchangeable. If your heading to PnPL it might be just as easy to pull a head from there, they probably wouldn't want a heap for it. You then have some options, either the R30 head or 280ZX heads, just don't take a P90 as your compression will go down the drain as it's the turbo head and needs flat top pistons to give good compression. Cheers, D

Everything good in R30 Skylines is interchangeable. But depends on your model, if it's Series 1, up to 1983, you will need to change the wiring on the back of the hotplates to suit your model if they are Series 2, after 1983 and vice versa if you understand that bit. As for not being able to shave the head ...................... tell your mate to get a manager, because he has been handling himself far too long. The problem is the distance between the cam & the crank, to keep the chain tention right. If you shave 0.040 (40 thou) of the head you need to pack the cam towers the same amount. If you can hang off for a bit I might have an N42 280ZX head going up for grabs (for sale) Cheers, D

Nick, You surprize me! How long have we had a state in Australia called SYD????????? Cheers, D

Do you have a picture of the Canberra mould type DR front spoiler? You could contact Fibremaster at Arndell Park, near Eastern Creek, as they have a range of R31 side skirts and stuff and dimensionally the R30 & 31 are very similar.

I know what's under it, so there!

Me too! And opinions vary. Sorry! but other than engine swaps, I will never understand why anyone wants to take something that was very well engineered by it's manufacturer and make overly dramatic changes to damned near everything. I have seen on these pages talk of using R33 brake master cylinders and brake boosters, WHY? How are the R33 master cylinders and booster better than what you have already?? Dr30 Skylines and it's predecessors were raced & rallied very successfully with steering boxes and there own IRS system for years. It's not that they didn't have the technology, as zed cars had rack & pinion steering long before the R30 came to be. If it's the feedback from the road you source so much and the old worn steering box doesn't do it anymore, get the new parts made to order so it does, it would have to be less expensive than an entire refit/conversion. Other than wheel selection, what is the benefit of 5 stud wheels, and in any case the Japanese 2ndhand wheel market is expansive to say the least. If it's a drum brake hand brake and other such things you want, why not just go buy an HR31 complete car instead of having a bitser, like an R30 with an RB motor and R31 rear end, the mods are extensive to say the least and when you want to sell, who is going to want it any way??? To me it's like putting an 350 Chev in an XJ12 Jag, it's a great conversion if you have no intention of selling it, but if you do, it's value is very low. Sorry MrMayhem, but you will never convince me what you have done is for the better. There are legends in the Nissan/Datsun modifying & rebuilding business in Oz like Stewart Wilkins & Arthur Jackson, and they have never gone down the conversion track you have. So! I ask myself why bother, when the legends don't? Cheers, D

Kent, Try Hornsby Nissan, or try talking to Dave at Macarthur Nissan Spare Parts, they are very helpful for me, they can tell you straight up if it exists or is obsolete or it supersedes to something else. Do you have a picture or dimensions or both, maybe we can compare the R30 bits to it. Cheers, D