Ghostrider

There is a DR30 in USA somewhere & the only one I believe. I sent some badges to him some time back.

" The other thing i'm assessing is whether or not i should/will have to change stud patterns/hubs/controls arms etc " Why not just re drill the rotors to 4 x 114.3 as I have for the BNR32 GTR rotors??? They are 5 x 114.3 stock, just means they will have 8 holes in them. " DBA 317 slotted rotors at $250+ 'each' " As Dan says, this seems a little steep, because my slotted GTR rotors were less than this by nearly half. " reconsider wheel specs " Just use a spacer, but get the car registered with something available without first. I got mine registered (our Blue Slip/ Initial rego form) with stock DR brakes all round and changed them after.

" 185/60 on 14x7.5 and 8's " You do realise that a 185/60 x 14 is designed to fit 5.5 inch rim & fitted to wider than 6.5 is against all ADR's for your vintage of vehicle?????

Not the point benny, this owner thinks it looks good? It is showing that an 11 or 12 inch wheel is possible, but the tire has no benefits. Your big dish can be 8, 9 or 10 inches wide but your tire is going to be stretched onto it and therefore there is no benefit. Tell me where the sense, or common sense that any tire be fitted to anything other than recommended by the manufacturer???

"So whats the largest wheel width and tyre size that will comfortably fit under the guards without flaring the guards or going too deep into the wheel arch?" Interesting that this has come up, as today I was at the Auto Electrician's and found THIS! outside his workshops. Very typical of todays "LOOKS GOOD" & "Stupidity" attitude as opposed to practicality, good handling & quality? The below pictures are of an S13 180SX The tires are Front: 225/30 x 20 Nitto NEO GEN & Rear: 225/35 x 20 Austyre EAGLE fitted on wheel widths I don't know, BUT: Look at the pictures. The tread face on all tires is easily 35mm inside of the rims, the rim protector on the tire wall does absolutely nothing as it's also inside of the rim edges, the tire walls are exposed to ANYTHING that happens to come along and all the the name of LOOKS GOOD! Given that the section width on a test rim size of 8.5" is 225mm and the side walls are at least an inch inside of the wheel rim I guess these rims would be 11 or 12 inches wide, BUT the tire width (tread on the ground) is no bigger than what is on my 8 x 16's. Take into consideration, the standard tire size for an S13 & R30 are both 195/60 x 15 with an OD of 612mm and this car has an overall tire diameter of 648mm? What does this tell you??? At no point is there ANY tire outside of the wheel rim, so the wheels are subjected to what ever comes along on this vehicle. "BUT IT LOOKS GOOD" ??????????????????????????????????????????????

Firstly, you have to decide what you want the car to do??????? And then remember ....... the sky is the limit, but only limited by the thickness of your wallet. My take is fairly simple, IF your not entering this car at Bathurst and or not planning to do 160 laps of anywhere at 10/10ths, why get involved in unnecessary conversion upgrades. The PJR cars of the mid - late 80's, DR30's driven by the likes of George Fury, Glenn Seton, John Bowe, Gary Scott and others in the ATCC ran a rear brake set up of 290mm diameter and 2 spot calipers. STOCK DR30 rears are 290 x 10, so where is your problem???????? and it is a simple bolt on upgrade. For any road car, that's a regular cruiser and not racer, DRUM brakes were probably the best on the rear. Remember that lining/pad compounds have to get to an optimum operating temperature before they work best and therefore rear ventilated discs are not necessarily the best for your application as they don't get hot enough to work efficiently. My car has BNR32 GTR fronts (296 x 32 rotors) and 4 spot calipers (very nearly bolt on) with stock DR30 rears. I use EBC pads front & rear and on track time use upgrade them one (1) grade. Front Green to Red & Rear Black to Green. I also have a 1" master cylinder & 10" booster, both STOCK on DR30's. My new L20 (ha ha) ET motor I expect to put about 350HP to the ground, or a little better and coupled with a body weight of about 1150kg I can't foresee any problem. My Road wheels are MONZA Speed wheels, (16 x 8 & 16 x 7) +38 offset, my Drag combo is SUPER ADVAN tri spoke (16 x 8 & 16 x 7) +35 offset, my Track combo is a custom modified BBS Lorinser wheel (16 x 8 all round) For road use I have 225/50 on the back & 205/55 on the front and it all has to do with economics, but I use the best tires I can find for my money. Drag is a little different because to get good times, special tires need to be used, and on the back I have 265/60 Mickey Thompson ET Drag radials (designed for 8" rims) and fronts are eco friendly Toyo's. Track! I have 245/45 all round. I have been in a car, an MR30 sedan, that has 195kW at the wheels and has a 310mm Commodore front conversion incl 2 spot calipers and stock MR hatch rears. It has 17 in rims and it slows quite well from 220k on Braidwood Road near Goulburn, but it doesn't STOP like mine. This car has 17 x 7's all round shod with Bridgestone's last I heard Remember this when playing with wheels and tires .................. the ABSOLUTE BEST & BIGGEST foot print you can put on the road and keep some relevance to original tire spec is 245/45 x 16 and they were designed to be fitted to 16 x 8's. Go bigger in diameter, the tire gets narrower & same when going smaller than 16. Some other thoughts that maybe should be looked at, is insurance, most companies will accept a +1 concept, but as far as I know NONE accept +2 and onwards, other than specialists for enthusiasts like Shannons. The other problem with using 4 spot front calipers is spacing? With my BNR32 GTR fronts, I have to use a 20mm spacer which is illegal in most states of Oz, but after initial registration I don't have a problem with the RTA coz the annual inspection is merely a safety check and wheels don't come off. That's about my 2 bob's worth. Cheers, D

What has an R33 ANYTHING got to do with CLASSIC??????? Maybe you should ask these questions in the right topic area of this forum!

WHY???????

I'm not in particular a DR fan, but more just an R30 fan. I was recently offered 15G's for my HR30 PNV, but told the guy he didn't have enough money. My new engine will rival a good FJ20 and look stockish under the hood, so only the purists will know it's not. All R30's have reached cult status in Japan and can not be bought cheaply at auction unless they are a real dog. And even then, getting them to Oz intact is another problem. The hard to get bits just go missing, Zeb's PNV is just one typical example and his was imported years ago as Ravenoak can confess to. Cheers, D

Not much changed here eh??? Same oll, same oll. Wonder if this guy had his eyes shut when he was dreamin about this?

where are you ?????????

thicker (Nismo do a 2mm) head gasket. Use this and your compression will go out the door! Probably drop to UNDER 8:1 which is N F G for your n/a motor. You want 10:1 in a good n/a engine. Try relieving the tops of the pistons (Fly Cutting) for valve clearance IF necessary. as I said earlier.

Has anyone run into major valve clearance issues before with an L28 and flat-tops? .......... No! but I am using a P90 head, as my motor will be turbo. .......... You may have to relieve the piston crowns for valve clearance. Does anyone know off-hand what the tappet clearances for the N42 head are? .......... 0.010" for both Does anyone know what color the L28 block was when new? .......... Blue Including paint and oil, I hope to keep the whole project under a grand. It's on track so far. ............ how you do this? My present cost list is over $3000.00 for my new L28ET build excluding machining.

Why play with 5 stud when 4 stud Z31 bits do the same??? Front disc rotors are identical to DR30, calipers should be as well, rear discs are SUPPOSED to be the same but DBA replacements have a lower hat height, but that really isn't a problem, just need a 5mm spacer washer and longer bolts. Anything else ???????

its a pretty damn low ratio tho... Huh??????? The higher the numbers the lower the ratio, not other way around. eg. 3.9:1 is lower than 3.08:1 And the R31 has a live axle where your 240K has IRS.

L24E MR30 up to '83 was 8.5:1 compression, '84/85 was 9.0:1, L20ET was 7.8:1 and same for L28ET. Just remember, the higher the static compression, the lower the boost that can be used safely. And stay under a bar and you have better reliability. Factory L20ET boost was about 6psi whilst factory L28 was about 8psi. BNR32 GTR's had a static compression of 9.0:1. As for the availability of the required turbo bits goes, they are getting very thin on the ground. Ebay, Ozdat and maybe TradeMe in NZ, might be good, but freight from o/seas is the killer. For an L24ET set up, the stock RB25DET T03 turbo would be the go, or the more antiquated VL Turbo compressor. The exhaust manifold is the same wether L20 or L28ET, Inlet manifolds can be the problem though as there are a few to choose from, depending on your application. For the most part, the L20ET bits would be best for an L24ET in my opinion and the cheapest way to give the rex's a bit of hurry up at a quarter or less of the price.

I have an L24E stock dizzy I'll swap for the L20ET if you want???

Will running roll centre adjusters on the front fix the problems with positive camber caused by a low ride height? How pray tell do you get positive camber from lowering???????

You can have it Shane, me no interested! I've got a couple already & better I thinks.

And maybe the boos kit too if your going to get rid of them?

It won't I promise you that. What's the momo look like???

This is your horn contact on the steering column. What do you think is wrong???

Same as this?

You got the standard steering wheel?????

PM sent tonight about bonnet. D