MBS206

Did you just have hte other car idling whilst doing it. Nearly all cars I've jumped have need the jumping vehicle to rev engine to around 3000RPM before attempting to hit the key on the dead car. Sometimes letting the connection sit for 30secs can help (But don't do it with shit jumpers) and also make sure the jumpers are hooked up the right way.

Turbo does nothing at idle. Air comes in through AFM, through turbo, through throttle, into manifold. If BOV is open Air comes through AFM, through turbo (And also through the recirc pipe and comes out just before the throttle) and then into manifold. Whilst the car is in vacuum. Air is being SUCKED not forced through the intake.

If it were a factory BOV you wouldn't have aproblem if it were open at idle for letting in unmetered air, as it'd just be allowing the same metered air to travel a different path INTO the engine.

Up again.

Come on guys. It's making me cry just having this car sitting there (Yes it drives 100% perfectly. Yes I'm 100% licenced, Only reason it's not being driven is that it's no good to ME as a daily, and I'm just far too busy of a weekend to take it for a run.)

Caps are NOT needed. A cap is really only good for one or two notes, after that, they're out of power, and then they're attempting to draw power to charge up. They're only really useful in a one note burst. Full song, no way. Basically it needs a better wiring kit, and a good alternator.And according to Rockford Fosgate, that is only a 400Watt RMS amp.

If they get in the left lane, and stay there I don't care. If it's on a single lane road, then as you hit overtaking lanes they speed up. They need a knee capping!

Only cheap wine comes in 4L and up... And yeah, personally, I'd keep quiet if I were you, you don't seem too quick witted if you need help rebutting against a V8 Driver.

Bump

Unfortunately, still on hydraulic... From what I've been told, the 10.2 is arond maximum you'd want to run on hydraulic lifters without them bleeding out and loosing lift.

Hey all, It's come to a point that I'm no longer driving this car, as I have another daily, and therefore, it's just costing me money, and just sitting there. I've made a decision in the last few days, that I'm looking to sell this car, pay my loan off, and save like all hell for a unit. So, onto the car. It's a white 1994 R33 GTS-t RB25DET, Manual. 3" Turbo back exhaust FMIC Boost controller Button clutch Light weight flywheel Boost Guage Aftermarket gear knob (With H-Patter sticker) Pod Filter with custom box. GTS-4 springs, with Bilstein shocks. Advan Light Weight Racing Wheels (Was going to keep them, but won't fit new car) Edit: Forgot that it also has a FACTORY sunroof that DOESN'T leak. Edit2: Forgot that it's running split fire coil packs. Car is engineered, and the exhaust IS legal (readouts and eng cert in car) Also have a set of lowered springs that fit the current shocks (Straight in, straight out swap) that aren't currently fitted. Asking price: $13 500 Prices are ONO. Test runs welcome. I live in Wollongong, and am contactable on 0406 962 347, best to SMS me, and I'll try ring you back (Reason: Uni and work) Pics up tonight. Matt

White is not oil. White is water. Sure he isn't burning rubber?

It could also be a slight air leak, as mine was doing it with a tiny slit in a pipe, but wasn't giving a rough idle.

a) Laugh - When it's a ricey POS skyline b) Look on going "Yep, that's nice" c) Go "DAMN! I want that one!!!"

maps.google. 38.794049, -9.410455 Nice building there, looks pretty close to the first pic. And it's on farm land, in the correct area. The little dirt road and all.

Sounds like a sensor issue. Maybe CAS related.

Gimme Chromoly anyday over mild steel for a roll cage. Chromoly can be a bit of a bitch to weld sometimes.

Yes

Been thinking CC GSR Looks like an ordinary lancer. Exhaust (quiet) and boost. Mid 13s should be there Little bit more work, and scare the hell out of most people out there who think it's "just another prancer"

rear diff?

I have them on my Supra. Only time they get turned on is when it is: a) Foggy, b) Rainy c) Some idiot came up behind me with his on, so I get behind him and flick them on and off. I hate people who have them on, unless they're needed! They're just wanker lights. Also, there IS a difference in driving lights and fog lights Fog lights: Yellow lense, low power, used to cut through fog to give better visibility, able to be turnt on and off WITHOUT headlights being on. Driving lights: White lense, generally high power (Except in wanker cars like SS commodores etc). These lights by ADR/Law are only meant to be able to be turned on whilst your HIGH BEAMS are on. FYI: It is a $75 or $77 offence in NSW to have your fog lights on when not needed. Having driving lights on is the same offence as not dipping your high beams. You have been warned.

I like lumpy idle... Put them in the other way around... SK: What is stock duration on an R33 GTR and stock on GTS-t

Sell intake manifold seperate? If so, PM me

Just go full aftermarket ECU if the ECU in there is the culprit. Also if it's a "drifters" ecu, I'd be checking everything is A-okay in the car.

Did I call BS at all on his figure? I just asked fot IT and AT and the other factors. And as always, I couldn't give 2 shits about a dyno figure. They mean nothing. Driveability and the proper ability to make use of said power is the key. Plus, the main thing is area under the curve.