MBS206

The AFM in stock position,goes just after the air filter!

Put it this way. 4MM in my opinion and experience will have the car doing what it's doing now but worse. Just straighten it up and go from there... Either that, or slide under the car (Leave it on the ground) and measure what the settings are from there! When the tyres become unwaited, your toe tends to head more towards toe out btw, so if you're running 2mm toe out at the moment, under hard braking and weight shift, with the rear lifting say 2 inches, you'll be headed for around 1-2 mm more toe out the set standard. And 4mm toe out will be VERY hard to control! Plus, c onsidering you don't know what your current starting point is, other then 2mm rear toe, you can't really say, give it 2 mm more rear toe, as that could end up at 0 toe over all, or 4mm toe in! See your issue? Edit: I can understand, and if I was in your boat, I'd probably go with your guys points of view. A touch of toe is a helper, but 2mm personally would be my max. As for track, haven't hit a circuit yet, only skid pan. I'm going from info my wheel aligner is giving me (He sets up an array of cars, all the way through to James Harrigans race cars... ) and from experience I've had with changing the setup whilst on the street etc. Personally, maybe you're best setting it to 1mm toe in, and make SURE it's 1mm toe in. Personally, I'd be sending it back to standard settings and adjusting one thing at a time.

Falkens, shit in my experience Have the 451 on mine in 17 at 265. Also, your rear profile is way too large for the width on 19s.

Highly interested in the tyres depending on pics and tread wise.

Roy: 2mm is a fair amount of toe in practice. My wheel aligner (Who does race cars) was telling me that a change in 0.5MM is a HUGE change in characteristics. Get your toe set to 0, or a max of 0.5MM toe in and go from there.

Ah mate, the difference isn't in the weight of the car dropping, if it was, the car would accelerate better. What the difference is, the flywheel actually stores energy. Seriously, do some research on flywheels etc and why they're used. A lighter flywheel can't store as much energy, hence, you need to supply more energy from the engine to go up hills. Oh, and I'm talking from a theory point of view in studying engineering, and from a practical point of view seeing how I run a lightweight flywheel in my R33. Hence, if you're talking from "guesstimates" and no real study or experience, STFU!

The intake piping is all stainless steel. The piping has been on there for a while, so not new new, just not stock. It just sounds like somewhere around enginebay on passenger side, towards underneath the car as a major air rush, like massive turbulence etc.

Hey all... I need help. As of late my car has been back firing a fair bit (From bad plugs, plus I caused it to a few times also) Now, the car has a new strange noise to it (It had NONE before), it sounds a touch like someone attempting to blow a whole heap of air through as traw, but, the strange thing is, I'm having ZERO pressure loss. When I boot it, the car just won't pull at all, feels like a complete dog, and makes that weird noise. Now, the car "seems" to drive like normal down low in the rev range, on low throttle, although, of late, I've noticed that the car is needed more and more throttle to get moving along, I used to cruise off with 10mmHg, without an issue, now I'm needing to actually bring the car up to around 2-3PSi of boost to get it moving. When moving it, the car just feels so slow, and pathetic. The car has: 3" Turbo Back exhaust FMIC Boost controller (set to 6PSi low and 10PSi high) All new intake piping Lightweight flywheel Splitfire Coils On the dyno, the car read a AFR of around 11.8 - 12.0 on a stock ecu, so either fuel filter needs replacing, or pump is dieing (i've been told by people on here, most likely pump, so it's getting replaced soon) Car will be getting serviced this weekend (oil, filters, sparkys) The car doesn't misfire at all. Does this sound like a dead/collapsed cat? I'll be getting another compliance cat to throw on soon just in case it is my cat. It doesn't seem to be a vac leak, as it doesn't have issues when on boost except lacking power, and doesn't miss etc. Car just has strange noise whilst on boost with no power. Edit: Car is an R33 GTS-t Series one.

Does it go away when you put your foot on the clutch?

Um, you're a fool He's then driving an unregistered car (If you're unlicenced/restricted, you registration is null and void) You also have no insurance If you think they won't find out, they will. I know SOO many people who've been pulled over just because they took off a bit, the turbo spooled, and they were near an unmarked car. Fortunately for them, they were legally allowed to drive the car. You have an accident, and hit something like an old school show car (Old Chev, Mustang, Monaro, etc) or hit a Merc, BMW, even just a Commodore, and the price to repair them is insane, you then have to pay for it out of your own pocket, you have no car, no money, and huge fines, and the possibility of being sued, plus a criminal record. Hit something like an old car, or a high end car, and you can be up for over $50 000, hurt someone, and you're f**ked for life. It's purely not worth it. Oh, and the police/insurance companies go right over cars after they've been in large accidents. Edit: And so people know, I thought I was a good driver, that I could handle my car decently (I couldn't chuck it around drift etc, but I could handle it) And to an extent, I beleive that I can control my vehicle on the road, better then alot of P-platers, and am quite aware of going ons around me too. Now I took up an oppurtunity around a week or two ago, to go out with Autosports to OranPark Skid pan, and chuck the car around, and I tell you what, it scared the shit outta me, how little I really did know on car control. So, don't be a twit, save your pennys, save your regrets, hold off, go do some driver courses, then get a skyline if you still want one later on.

From my experience, the Positive is actually toe out. But to be perfectly serious with you. Set it to zero. Too much toe in can also cause squirming. I had a MAJOR issue, where the car was crabbing around, unsettled underbrakes, hit a bump and it would wander around, and it was ALL in the rear toe, strangely, too much rear toe. The rear tyres were basically "dragged" around. Most of the time, you'll find what you're feeling the "front" is actually from the rear.

Pics/Tread?

In VIC he/she can drive it. I have an R33 GTS-t, I'm on my green Ps, I drive it legally (I don't have restrictions) also, I'm in NSW. From what I've read, you loose your licence straight away, fair fine on it, there's also the fact the car could be taken/towed, you also have no registration or insurance whilst driving with restrictions in a restricted car. Hence, you hit someone, your f**ked for life if you do some severe damage. I was, at a point in time, being pulled over for random breath tests (and licence checks) and honestly, I can't blame the coppers since it is a restricted car for most P platers. I drove quite a few cars before getting the 33 (Owned an old ute *still do* and a VR Commodore, plus drove multiple friends cars) and seriously, I was still unprepared for how the turbo car handles and drives. I'm still learning another 9 months or so on, plus doing skid pan days to learn more, and seriously, on the road, these skid pan days are making me drive more like a cat (Very cautiously!) If you drive it, and you're restricted, and you don't get caught, you're bloody lucky, but the day you have an accident, you'll be reemed in the ass for the rest of your life. Oh, and it also goes on your insurance history for 5 years, so once you get off your Ps, if you've been done, you have that problem with getting insurance...

These are just rubber yes? No rims? Or?

Be aware, that when you change the flywheel to a lighter component, you will start to require more throttle when climbing hills. And by more throttle, I mean a significant amount of throttle change for hills.

From what I've heard it's only meant to be 10cm high...

I'm about to attempt this today, except I'm going in a backwards order sort of... I'm pulling off some aftermarket springs, and putting ON some stock springs (The car is way too low at like 318mm middle of wheel to guard in the front!) Anyway, what I've been told, and will report back on, is to jack the car up to the required height off of the chassis or some other point, and throw a stand under at the chassis. Now move the jack over, and once the wheel is removed, jack the hub up also so that there is sufficient pressure on the hub to make it look as though the hub is in it's "normal" working spot. Now put the spring compressors on. Now lower jack away from hub. Now spring is compressed and locked. This takes the preload off of everything. Do the same for putting back in (unfortunately you'll have to tighten for AGES with a bar... ) I'l let everyone know how I go today, but yeah, that was what I was told to do, so I'm gunna try it...

From what I have been told, when you hold the Andra licence there are certain regulations on top of what others have, that you then must abide by also, or you cannot run at the track again. The extra regulations are all involved with safety aspects in the car etc. And yes, there have been incidents over the years where people have lost control of cars, whether they be the high end dragsters/funny cars, or road cars, there have been accidents in all, and the severity seems to increase dramatically once you pass under around a 12.5second 1/4 mile.

Have you got a price for the Cat and a price for the carpet in the boot? Also, what would you want for the diff? Is it just hte normal VLSD?

Hey Haven't had a chance to get hte photos up yet as I lost hte CD for my phone to upload photos onto the PC. I'll get some more this weekend and transfer them. I'll be pulling the DVD player out tomorrow also completely, but I have a 12Volt power supply at home that i can boot it up from to prove it is working.

I'm in definetely! These are a bloody awesome day! Even though they go through no "theory", when you get out there, you learn SOOO much about your car that I don't think even a track day can teach you! (The boys don't care how much rubber you leave and smoke you make!) Seriously, for those who missed out last time DON'T MISS OUT THIS TIME!

Would you courier the tyres?

Brendan: Can you please send me a copy of that file as an excel spread sheet to tonystump_at_telpacific_dot_com_dot_au please?

As above. You can't convert the car to NA, as it's classed as a performance modification (although for the worse) The same withs wapping engines Your best bet is to buy an N/A one if you want a skyline, and later on convert to turbo.

EPA will test for emmisions EPA will test for noise level as well (As can most exhaust shops) To clear the other issues, you will most likely need a complete AUVIS inspection? (Blue slip) Just make them happy, and it's all schweet. Also pods are legal on any car as long as they are enclosed. And if the copper ever wants to see what air filter I'm running, he's more then welcome to pull my air box apart and put it back together. But I hope he's carrying tools... Also, if you get defected for BOV or POD etc, fix it, and KEEP IT FIXED! The history stays on your car, and when they write out your notice, they research what has been defected before on the car!