MBS206

Ha ha ha, your hair is still red to me mate. That said... I'm mostly red colour blind 😛

Hint, he's about 5 ft tall, red hair, angry, and goes by Mark... 😛 Used to be MLR username.

I like the idea of tagging the model, and if GTS-t/GTt or GTR, and then a what, so wiring, engine, suspension. That way you end up with a matrix, all content R33 GTST, or you can find all content that is wiring related for example.

It's not called a gas pedal. That's just what Murica refers to it as. It's called a throttle pedal, or accelerator pedal. Because it makes the engine accelerate, and the thing it is controlling is the... Throttle... The only pedal in the vehicles that "gives it more gas" is in a diesel. And it doesn't give it has. It gives it diesel.

Let's be wary though, if cranking is so far off, what else isn't set right? Are the dead times set right, voltage compensation etc? It definitely sounds like it's cranking fuel issues, and holding flat to the floor is shutting them down, but I'm with Duncan that if nothing was changed in the ECU at all, and then this started, I'd be more thinking a leaking injector. Do as Duncan said, drop the oil and make sure it's not full of fuel.

Wowee! She looks like a major handful out there Pete!

I'd do it all again in a heart beat. Well, not all, I'd make some different choices in which mods. But I'd definitely still spend all the money.

So you're saying don't let him do a track day in a car I own? Granted, I've only ever had successful track days in other people's cars, and a 100% kill rate in taking my own cars to the track...

You miss spelled bearings...

Maybe you need to go borrow one of Pete's cars? He doesn't seem worried about break GTRs

It's got a problem Prank... It looks like both washer spray caps have fallen off this car... 😛

The title of Engineer is not protected. However different states have different rules about what an Engineer requires to operate. Engineering for a motor vehicle modification is very different to engineering for a bridge, electronics, etc, including what that engineer needs as certifications. In Canberra, "Engineer" is the loosest category with basically nothing stopping you calling yourself and engineer and designing a bridge or building. From what I've reviewed, QLD has the strictest requirements through RPEIQ.

Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST... Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.

He'll be looking down and swearing about "the damn apprentice" for trying to convince Duncan to use percussive maintenance... 😛

Geez, engineers fees have definitely gone up. Mine back 2007 cost me all of $300. Mind you, I had to go back to him a few times to get him to write the correct things on the report after he'd inspected it. Things like wrong exhaust size, wrong wheel sizes, etc etc.

Come on guys, they're just trying to sell their project car to scrape together a house deposit in the Western Suburbs of Sydney...

Sounds like the solenoid might be cactus, if the solenoid trigger wire was still attached (and it was just the main power to the starter itself remove). Just to provoke Neil haunting me for the rest of my life... Have you tried tapping it with a hammer while someone switches the key to start? This might work for the fuel pump too... 😛

The consult isn't even OBD1. It's a Nissan Consult. Proprietary. Re read everything I've said. I specifically say, put down the laptop/tablet. Understand, and review the issue first. Logging voltages is the same as logging the converted value. Things like O2 that you say to log, is unusable for this, whether it be the voltage, or the value the ECU thinks. The fact you don't know how to diagnose without looking at the computer, is exactly what I've said multiple times is the issue for why techs these days can't diagnose the fun issues with cars.

I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis. I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics. The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.

Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes? I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.

Ahhh! My silly brain was thinking Nissan started selling them straight away, but they waited w or three years didn't they? Maybe Duncan should build an R35 race car over the V37... There's a cheap yellow one on car sales Duncan, would only need your splash of purple added...

How do our rules work in Aus with importing one, since they were sold locally here?

Stock O2 sensors are narrowband. They're useless once you're away from stoich. IE, useless for what you're trying to do. 10:1 will read the same as 14:1 from the stock O2 sensors. That is, they'll read rich. The same level of rich.

You should totally get a Brumby, and then come pick up the Subaru Liberty GTB I have here. EJ25 Turbo, 6 speed manual from the sti (just no dccd), and the good rear diff. Drop all that into a Brumby and go have fun!

What mods are done to the car? By driving in traffic, does it die while moving, say at 50kmh? Or its when you're sitting idling it wants to die, or when idling and you go to accelerate? When you're idling, how long is it normally idling for time wise before it starts to miss and sputter?