bubba

Yup that one was definately a 180

You two are probably the only thing that brightens a bus drivers' day.

33gtst are direct fit (at least on my gtst they were), use your R32 lines. I put some braided lines on aswell when I put the 33 brakes on.

I'm thinking about that adapter bracket and some 324mm rotors for the front of my 32gtst, already got some 33gtst brakes on the front.. will the brackets actually be worth it?

I have 550cc Denso/Sard top feed injectors, I went for the high impedence ones so I didn't need to wire in resistors. Did have to change the plugs and also use some copper washers to stop the injectors popping out of the manifold (slightly too short, under boost were popping out. Tuner said he'd seen it before with older Denso/Sard injectors).

If you use the wiring/ecu to suit the head you're using, then that is the easiest way. I'm using a my factory ecu (remapped) to run my 25/30 but I'm using an RB25DE head out of an R32 so it was mucho easy.

RB20DET ports are slightly smaller than RB25DE.

You can put a T piece where the stock sender is and run both from there, that's how I set mine up. (for oil pressure) Did you get a water temp gauge from Jshop? I was looking and couldn't find one I grabbed me a water temp sensor housing though, they were hanging on the back wall.

^^ lol The passenger having a cry in that video was good amusement value. sik bro.

Oh well. Low power steering fluid tends make the pump get really noisy, it's a horrible rattling sound.

Does it have power steering?

omgz0rz ANOTHER drafty!

+1 for remap of factory ecu, is running my 30 + 550cc injectors + z32 afm just fine.

Build a 30.. </hides from flamage>

The "in" crowd is also kind of like personal preference, it's whatever makes YOU feel like you belong. People trying to be as cool as their mates. That's probably why people buy Hondas I don't buy into that sh!t and I'm also not a pimply faced teenager even though I drive a gtst

Damn, this thread is still going. It's as stupid as the old 32 vs 33 threads. Horses for courses. I would rather drive a rwd (even a pig with a 2way and a button clutch). Personal preference, that's what everything is about. Unless you're some fool who wants to be part of teh "in" crowd.

"base boost" meaning "actuator boost" So yes, if your actuator is good for 7psi then a SET value of 50% would be a 50% increase on 7psi (so roughly 10psi).

It's a percentage of your base boost. Not hard dude, not hard at all. i.e. to get 12psi with my RB20 actuator I use a SET value of 22% You just have to remember that your GAIN slightly affects the max boost aswell so if you find you are needing a high GAIN value to stop creep or taper, you will probably have to lower your SET value to compensate.

Ditto, I want one too.

If it's spiking when it comes on boost then it's likely your SET GAIN is too high, the gate is being held closed till too close to your target boost setting. Try lowering it slightly. I managed to get rid of a hesitation my car had when it came on boost by lowering the SET GAIN by 0.2psi, now it comes on just as strong but is smooth as. If boost is tapering off you need to play with your GAIN setting, do this slowly, a couple of % at a time.

Any competant machinist should be able to do the crank collar for you, if they really know what they're doing they can do the long nose mod without using a collar. Ceramic coating, not sure, I know my mate had his exhaust housings and dumps coated somewhere.

Fair dinkum Bard.

Too bad there's only three whole teams competing so far.. GET YO MONEY IN FOO'S!

It's not that the bits that go round weren't within spec, it's that the face that contacts the thrust washer was thrashed out which resulted in 5mm of end float and a munched oil pump (lucky it was the stocker).

Xmas eve would be the day before you pickup your engine from the machine shop Good luck! 3L FTW!