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iamhe77

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Everything posted by iamhe77

  1. Hmm... thought I was doing well since concentrating on driving economically (not necessarily slow). Filled up last night - 70.4L with 749kms on the ODO Still cost me $116 to fill up though
  2. Played it on the weekend with a mate who has never played MK before.... good fun for about an hour, but then quite boring. Almost 20 years on and it is still no where near the game that Street Fighter is.
  3. If that's the case, please explain the Nulon "100% Synthetic" 10w40 oil. There is no way that shit is Group IV and there is no chance that shit is ever going anywhere near my wife's Magna again... let alone my Stagea!
  4. Still cheaper, yes... but I'd be stopping every day for another tank of LPG! Where you getting your 98 from? Last time I filled the tank (last week) is cost me $108 but that was 620kms ago (the light just came on this morning, so I should get at least another 80kms out of it )
  5. That is rubbish economy mate, what do you get if you do the same driving on 98 (I believe you have a switch so you can manually select the fuel you are using, yes?)
  6. 40psi front and rear. Better handling and slightly better economy
  7. That's what I thought. Can you pick them up soon man? They have been sitting there for weeks (I copped an earful when I picked up some runner gaskets).
  8. On PS3 "redeem codes" for games from the US have 16 digits whereas AUS games have 12 digits. That is why you wouldn't have been able to get the downloads. A mate of mine had the same "problem" with Rockband 2. Why not make up a US account? It is quick, easy and you can get PSN store codes from gaminglue.com for your dlc. Also, the US store has more and is a better layout than the shit AUS PSN store. DLC is country specific, so you can only play US downloaded dlc via your US account and AUS dlc via your AUS account.
  9. Nismo rear is perfect but the fronts are a little soft IMO. 10kgf/mm front and 9kgf/mm rear would be nice.
  10. Oh, so that's why you have BC's on your car!
  11. FTG are good at sourcing parts, but I get all my stuff through Frankston Nissan. Never has taken more than 10 business days (as is Nissan's standard policy if parts are "ex-japan"), that said I have been told that the devastation will delay the delivery of "some parts"... as Dunc said. Did you order through F'ston? Which engine seals? +2 for Shannons. :thumbsup:
  12. Fair bit of hwy (about 80% of my daily trip), but as it is my day-to-day drive I also have school zones and have to go up/down/up/down the Mt Eliza hills (let alone battle the shit drivers that seem to live there).... but also a fair bit of driving in the Frankston area. lol @ "in the wild" Jethro. Wouldn't have it any other way, although I do seem to get a lot more speeding fines
  13. Bled brakes and replaced pads on the weekend. QFM HPX replaced the old A1RM's. Wheels stay clean now Nice! But couldn't you fit a larger air filter in there?
  14. VK45 is a very nice V8, will be lighter than an RB26 and offer a heap of torque without boost Dunno what would have to be done to fit one, but it would certainly be nice (they came in AWD variants too!). Alternatively you can stroke a VQ35de which will drop right into your engine bay and there are plenty of options for both N/A or Turbo for them (as an aside, you can get a 3.8L stroker kit designed to redline at 12000rpm... other parts of the engine will need to be strengthened and lightened of course, but I am sure spinning a 3.8L VQ to 11500 would sound awesome.) If you want a factory turbo engine to modify, go the VQ25det over the VQ30det or RB. If you want the extra capacity, simply get aftermarket VQ35de crank and rods that can deal with a heap of boost. VQ35de would be the easiest way though, they are easy to source, used in a number of models and the yanks have HEAPS of fun bits for them.
  15. That's pretty good economy! Haven't posted in here for a while, but reset my economy screen and travel info screen 2 and a bit weeks ago. Over the past 1300kms, average fuel is now 9.9km/L and average speed is 52kph
  16. You have taken the sensor out first? Silly question but it does help to have the sensor out of the engine before removing the clip. You will need to push the end of the clip in first, then I think I squeezed the rear sides while pulling the connector out to remove it. Definitely one of those items I was concerned about the possibility of breaking!
  17. I know, it was more a tongue in cheek statement but I forgot to use an emoticon
  18. So you just "shake it out"?
  19. Now, are you implying that a car yard doesn't know much about the M35 Stagea? I didn't read all of the ad previously, but how in the name of the Gods do they expect someone to buy a car when the description is so far off? Do they really think it will instil the buyer with the trust required to make the deal? Seriously, what the f**k is with import yards like this?
  20. That sounds like a reasonable statement for a 9 year old car with *cough* 42000kms on the clock
  21. Certainly we are of the same optinion, although you don't see many with the Dayz kit. I wonder if it is still available...
  22. I would assume it is a typo.
  23. What about it? Dayz body kit, not 100% positive it is an Autech though (did the Axis come with grey surrounds and steering wheel? I have only seen black).
  24. Yep, R186 means that yours were replaced as part of the factory recall... so were mine. The sensors are at the rear of the engine and have a green clip. 10mm socket is needed to remove the bolt that holds the sensor securely in the engine. Once this is removed, simply pull the sensor out, but try your best not to hit anything with it. You will have to take the sensors out and have a good close look at both the sensor and the clip to see if it is a bent connector. 3rd sensor (crank angle sensor)? What he said^^
  25. Nice result Chris. Interesting considering the stock ECU
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