Stinky Rooster

erm, no you can't. AFAIK, the split varies all the way down tp 5/95 Also the atessa fluid, as well as providing hydraulic pressure, also cools and lubricates the whole system so if the pump is not recieving the correct instructions then you are risking the transfer case internals. I have an operating g-sensor available Leshy, but how would we go transporting it?

^^ +1 ROFLMAO!!!

Damn str8! ..so tight, if stuck a lump of coal up there, in 2 weeks it would be a diamond. Now, where are those scans?

^^ +11ty most sensible post yet IMO. DEFINATELY go with the sparky side of things. Its less dirty, alot more technically challenging and the sparking side of things is becoming more and more a "black arts" area which means more specialization and higher charge rates.

got scans anyone? don't leave us hanging like this, I don't wanna have to buy a mag I don't like just to see it

PM Chris Rogers, he is probably one of a very few guys in Australia that can answer this coherently. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/m2209.html

Go for it, but only if you are planning on selling it before you need to take any of it off

*fapfapfapfapfap*

not to mention the ugliest Nissan dash EVER. my pick of the cheapy's would be this one http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=11135

I always thought that the whole point of the RB30DET was the fact that it made a crapload more torque than the 25 & 26? Thus, doesn't it make sense that you would not need as much boost unless you were one of these meatheads that want to drive around in a 600hp soccer mums car?

I'm gonna win lotto, buy it and enter it in the burnout comp at summernats just to piss off the purists. Seriously, it shits me to see ads like that. Bloody thing was built to be driven, not make some anal retentive halfwit rich

awesome work dude. Is someone going to sticky this thread?

^^thats what I thought too but would an auto TF case bolt up to a manual gearbox?

and you put this in the Stagea thread because........?

*slap*

The ECU isn't quite the same as a R33 the ecu would be closer to a R32 GTS-4, (R33 GTS-4 was NA only) but it shares the engine management, albeit with a different tune, with the R33, but for some reason the plug and pinouts are the same as a R34. If you are willing to put a new plug on the loom I suppose anything is possible, I would just put the SAFC2 on the std Stagea ECU and go from there. *disclaimer* all the above is S1 only. (the limit of my experience )

Wasn't last years grand champion a Datsun 1600 with a boosted SR20 on board???

Well, I dunno about the skyline, but the only difference between the turbo and non turbo stagea is the engine and ecu.

Yes, the resivioir is for the ATESSA fluid, but it is ATF that goes in there. As for the water leak, just make sure its water, I would have said fuel overflow as well.

*laughs* *runs away from ronald mctangles*

There is also holes for the restraint bolts behind the seats but no bolts (you can pull them out of the roof if you want, or just buy extras) The reclining rear seats made the stagea one of the easiest cars I have ever fitted a baby seat to.

Sounds to me like you had a stuffed injector staying open and dumping fuel (from the stored pressure in your fuel system) into a cylinder. Cylinder fills up (fluids are incompressible remember) and when you try to start it if the piston on the full cylinder is on its way up it hammers f**k out of the gudgeon pin (little end) and "pop goes the RB..." If said cylinder is on its way down, you get lucky and excess fuel gets dropped into the sump. I had the same thing happen once on a bike, fuel tap was leaking and the carb overflowed into the bore. At knock off time I trotted out to the bike and tried to crank it over and it wouldn't spin. After about 10 goes on the starter it cranked over juuuuuust enough to spit the rod through the side of the bore

didn't someone on here just buy that silver one? I quite liked it myself, and I usually don't like cars with body kits, they usually look like they ram raided a tupperware factory