someonestolecc

Yes it's possible. Have lots of money.

I thought I'd let calsonic do the work for me and am happy with the GTR cooler on the cefiro. Why not just pickup some clean GTR ones?

Beautiful. Thanks Skid. Looks like I'm up to owing you a 6 pack.

3rd paragraph edited. Forgot to mention it's a cefiro so the front end is like a silvia. I don't believe it's nearly as hard to change a few deg of camber with camber plates than it is on a skyline. All I'm trying to get an answer to is - if I undo the bolts holding my coilover to the camber plate will it be impossible to push it in for more camber because of the weight of the car on the coilover?

I have a HID kit also.... But what Ronin is doing is not installing a kit but a retrofit. Retrofit is when you take the projector and bulb from (typically) an OEM and (typically) install it into your car's headlight assembly. The advantage is that you get the projector that is designed to handle the xenon bulbs. Typically the halogen assembly and/or projector design differ from what's required by xenons and you end up with hot spots, glaring and fuzzy cut offs (and subsequent leakage as he said already). My HID kit is ok. The cutoff is crisp, almost no hotspots and works well. Not all cars are like this though - it's usually acknowledged if you want to do xenons properly and your car isn't factory equipped, OEM or retrofit is the only way to go. So Ronin.. How's it goin? More pics??

funkymonkey did one for the cefiro which may or may not be the same... http://cefiroz.com/content/view/26/1/

Gday, Had some dudes had a look my car the other day and noticed my camber was funny. Which is strange because I just had a wheel alignment and haven't been sliding the car (no gutter/ripple strip incidents!!). Basically I'm going to adjust the driver side with what appears to be no camber visually to be the same as the other side. I have camber plates and basically wanted to know if I undid the 4 "bolts" that hold the coilover to the camber plate - is the weight of the wheel going to stop it from being able to be adjusted? Also - should the wheel I'm doing be suspended from the ground? My only assumption there is if it's suspended it's going to naturally be making it positive camber... in which case should I get a mate to hold the wheel weight up while screwing the holder things in? Yes. I'm too cheap and busy to go get a wheel alignment place to do it. Anyone have any tips?

I know what you mean Ceffy_SA. I wasn't having a go at you, just that there are 2 types of people who work on cars. Those where anything will do (or they just plain suck).. Typically their cars fall apart after some time. Then there's the other type of person who would work on their car as if it were their own, do a good job and end up with cars that function for longer than just the test drive. I can't say what I would say because you're not meant to bad mouth businesses even if it's fact (in which case it wouldn't be defamation) on this forum. I'd say 99% it's because the daughterboard has been installed dodgily. Hope it is - cheapest solution to fix it .. Good luck and let us know how ya went.

Sounds like a typical band aid solution... it's like putting stickytape over a red warning light. Oh well. If it's a daughterboard open your ECU up and make sure there's a rubber hose or something jamming the chip into the daughterboard or it'll fall out. I think they use hope to hold the chips in in Melbourne. When it falls out it'll run rich.

If you're learning how to drive go to a flat carpark. Put the clutch pedal in and put the car in first. Slowly lift your foot off the clutch pedal till the car starts moving. You should not need to use the acc pedal at all (unless you're driving a hyundai).. That's your friction point. If you cant intuitively from that you suck go get an auto.

Behind the grill. MY GRILL. hehe

It's a good deal because it's a stocker. (less things to go wrong) It's also not such a good deal because it's a stocker. (more things to buy to modify it, I've seen good light-mod cars for only marginally more)

f**king stupid yanks. What's the point .. cause a bigger spectacle for tv when it rolls over and the fuel tank explodes?

ROFL Pimpin hard an' rollin deep on the mean streets of South Central Sydney.

No offense but wouldn't this be something better addressed on another forum?

My car does this too. I call it the Schitzo-fighting-feature. Basically something says you're "going over 10kmh .. quick lock the door." Sometime after something else says "the driver door just got unlocked, the rest of the car should be too" so it unlocks the car,.. at which point it says to itself "I'm going over 10kmh, quick .. lock the doors".. and it goes over and over. You have 2 options - 1- buy a new central locking/power window controller console box thing 2- lock the drivers door I went with options 2. Since you've got trouble with your windows go option 1... also get some silicone grease and give your window rubbers a quick spray (then wipe excess off the window). It'll feel like new

Fuark.. i hope they double clutch it on the way up and live 1/4 mile at a time!

That's hot.

Yeah I might be way off but from the first post I thought clutch straight away.

Thanks benno. Article edited.

Tighten it up or take it off. I'm not sure what you've done with your stock bov but make sure that's not venting as well.

Agreed. 1/4 mile times are for cars that go best in a straight line over a 1/4 mile. Probably get taken out in the corners by a honda though...

Yeah I thought that was strange too cos people seem to have 1992 models and stuff in Thailand. I'm not too sure ?? 15 refers to each the variant of the model. I will edit that.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A31_cefiro Edit away guys.. just keep my shameless plug for cefiroz.com on there Thanks to nark who's main spec sheet I stole from cefiroz which I stole from him in the first place woot go nark buttzeeseekzzokloLLol!!!1111!

niccce car. Howsabout some pics and an article for cefiroz documenting the build up process? That's be nice of you. Who's the sunburnt guy