someonestolecc

No worries danh that makes sense. No worries KICKIN I'll put the details up now hope you can get to em Please put in $390 into this account. BATMBL (the supplier) will then let me know and I'll update the thread. As soon as everyones paid the order will be made and you'll have your kit 2 weeks from then !!! name: Bos Importing BSB: 062189 a/c: 10139185 Bank: Commonwealth Bank

I know for a fact there are atleast 2 different radiators for r32s. One is an auto one, with the trans cooler part, one is a manual one without it. Obviously I'm not 100% if *all* auto ones got the auto radiator or if *all* manual ones got the manual radiator but it would stand to reason.

No worries danh - why don't you just order it now and have it waiting when you get your GTR ? Either way we should wrap this up! Everyone who's on the list please have your money ready - I will get in touch with you and PM you the BSB details and/or post them up here. Please have money in ASAP so the order can be placed this working week. (details to come).

That's a great lookin car man. What's it running? Are those Manaray vr-5's ?

You're only saying that cos you have that vent heheh good on ya kursed.

fuarrrrrr out that's very understated for the power I assume it has.

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Yeah if you want response go the sr20 with the s15 BB turbo. too_much was pulling 190rwkw with his sil80 I believe. You'll need a FMIC, fuel pump, injectors, tune ... plus engine plus gearbox.. hmm I think done right you could pull it under $5k. I'd go the SR ... I would never ever put a rb20 into a cefiro.. if it alreayd had one in there then no worries.. but why would you put one in ?

Hey Ando no worries mate. As for the 2.5k yeah I could see that happening, it always does, hopefully you snuck some upgrades in there There won't be a round 2 group buy because this one has shown there wasn't much demand as initially expected - just gimme a ring when you want to buy one. I'll be sending PMs out to everyone to pay soon so we can close it off.

Damnit I love you wang guys heh always taking the wang out of wang-ker and putting it back next to the balls where wang belongs.

Thanks

Thanks for the tip I'll check it out. I've read that SD increases the volume of the enclosure (for the soundwaves) is this a legit method for fine tuning the box after it is built? Ta

Hey mate no problem - you'll just have to check your light assembly and make sure you get the correct attachment. There's a post in the thread here from BATMBL with the globe attachments. Just check that out and I'll add you to the list, we should be taking money over the next week or so.

I'm toying with the idea of making a custom box in fibreglass for my boot. I'm comfortable with my grasp of the fibreglassing however I'm concerned about sound quality. Basically it will be for a 10" PPI single driver. I've had a few ideas of how I could install it nicely but I'm wondering if there are any basic guidelines of what I should and shouldn't do. 1- need to determine the optimal size as currently my sub is very boomy and produces great bass for hip hop, but does not produce enough responsive bass when I listen to hardcore dance music. I'd like to correct this and determine the optimal size for the enclosure. 2- having worked out the enclosure, I'm wondering does shape matter? One of the setups I've been considering is to have the box fit under my strut brace, but this would mean it doesn't have much clearance behind the drive on the inside of the box and I'm wondering if this is bad. 3- does it matter about sound bouncing around inside the enclosure? this relates to the question 2. 4- should I be pointing my sub into the cabin, out the back of the car, sideways, reverse mounting? Thanks.

I think people would leave on Saturday. Look up whereis.com.au

Yes I did it was a piece of shit when I bought it and there's a thread titled wooho my car didn't blow up where i've posted some of what I had to do to get it where it is now. Hopefully I can put that behind me and the car will work for me now on. Back to the group buy - i've put you up for these so if you're out please PM me. Thanks

I find it strange you have 1 hid and 1 not hid. What do you mean HID mode? What exactly happens? HIDs should come on, mine start up like they flicker hard, then not as bright very quickly, then they take a little while to warm up all the while increasingly getting brighter. Are you sure it's doing this? Can you find 2 ballasts? As for them flickering if they're HID and they flicker on they might not be getting enough current.

Looks great I reckon.

I have 235's on 18x8.5's and only notice a bit of wear on the outside of my front tyres (kind of like my barina) which I'm putting down to not enough camber. Seems ok.

Has anyone figured out a way to achieve the same thing WITHOUT switching the power signal? I have installed a HID kit into my flatmates skyline and I would prefer the low beam signal stay on, rather than be switched by a relay. Does having it switch on/off when you're flashing your high beams (for example) has any negative effect? I mean, essentially you're taking the power away then re-applying it (although very quickly). Anyone found what controls the lights?

Richard any reason you're not recommending 5/40? I use motul 8100 and it's 5/40 but I'm thinking perhaps it's ok now that it's cold but switch to 10/40 in summer (probably makes little difference).

Wow that's extreme heh heh - whatever tickles your biscuits though The kaixen water proof.. Hmm.. I'm not sure exactly what you mean. The bulbs I would NOT recommend getting wet, especially while they're on but this goes for any bulbs (just more so when replacements cost $120). Realistically I have no grommets in my headlight assemblies and took my car out in the rain last week (which any Sydneysider can attest was pretty big) and no problem. We're talkin in rain that reduced visibility to 5-10m so.. yeah. The ballasts and cables I wouldn't be dunking in your bathtub or mounting it in your wheel arch but really it's an enclosed unit and all cables are sealed to it. I didn't have any problems with the rain getting into my engine bay but I would imagine if some sprayed in there'd be no problem. If you expect water getting into your engine bay or headlight assembly in copious amounts I would seriously recommend fixing this instead of shopping for waterproof lighting solutions. If what you mean is: is the unit going to die by having some occasional water splashed onto it by a belt in the engine bay the answer is most probably not. On the other hand if it's beading and dripping on or around the ballasts or down the cables into the headlight assembly, I would seriously suggest mounting it somewhere where this won't happen. Hope that's a helpful explanation If you or anyone else ends up running these in your bathtub, please post up pics of the ensuing fire and possible hospital pics :Owned:

You weren't wrong I was long in bed Tonight it is gimme a ring bout 7. Thanks KICKIN you're added - Just so you know 8500k is gonna be plenty blue Ok we've hit 5 - all in the buy already are probably very very eager to get going so we'll give it a few days for anyone else to fall in then start money transfers because I don't think we'll hit 10. Thanks everyone for waiting so far. Anyone else who wants in please post asap!

D'oh. Why aren't you in Sydney?

Mechanics suck :