someonestolecc

Search these up and have a look in the tutorial question. Not sure about the diff but the gearbox will have 2 bolts on it just for this purpose.. Just jack your car up and look... since you haven't listed what car you have it makes it hard for people to tell you exactly.

Congrats on the new car. Get it checked out (since you didn't before you bought the car) as soon as you can. Be careful

He is in Aus champ - Just PM me your postal address because if you think there is demand you will have to get all the money, send it over, then I'll get the supplier (BATMBL from this forum) to send them all to your house to send out to your boys. This is because we don't want to be dealing with multiple people from another forum and country to be honost as a. I'm not making any money from this b. I don't think there's too much money to be mucking around for the supplier. Hope you understand - but pm me your postal address so I can ask the supplier to check it out. Cheers! All you SAU lads - JUMP IN!!!

Fair

Thanks for the list Marty I'm gonna write that one down and keep it for the records.

Just get the horn and use some wires and hook it straight up to the battery. If it horns it's not broken. Then get a test light and get the plugs where the horn sits and get someone else to push the button on your wheel and if that doesn't work then take your steering wheel off and check to see the horn is actually grounding the circuit when you push it in.

Why don't you do some more cut cut? I'll help ya with the fibreglass if you like

Good news thanks to Ab, BATMBL and S-Kid for being involved. Notch one up to the community!

H2s are ugly. I'd like the normal hummer with a .50 cal on the roof.. It'd be great in traffic.

Thanks for the replies guys. S-Kid - that's what they suggest but I think they were going to charge me about $160.. which .. might be fair but I'm not sure if it's worth the money. Is it?

Gday mate, I don't see why not provided that the money that goes to the supplier account is $390 AUD, you pay the extra postage (& insurance if you want it) and it's possible to post there (with registered mail and the box size etc is ok). I'll put you down for now because I doubt putting some more padding on it and taking it to the post office will be too much extra drama but I'll confirm with the supplier. Just so you know there is no 8000k kit, it is 8500k (which I think is what you meant).. also the 8500k will be very blueish and not the optimal light possible... Just so you know

18's are too small for the street. Atleast mine look like 16's ;|

JustJap have some if you're in Sydney - you might be able to get them to take photos. Otherwise sometimes gammy car type places have them (like autobarn or repco etc)..

I have a cannon, I'd love a straight pipe... but my cannon is loud as it is so how the hell do you guys with straight pipes expect to pass EPA/cops/rego? Also talk to people in your car and not get headaches everytime you're in there because the helmet you're not wearing isn't muffling the sound?

Gday, I have a quick question about my exhaust that I searched for, and since noone has a car that was put together as dodgily as mine I don't think it's ever come up. Currently I have a sr20, aftermarket turbo hooked up to a x-force HKS copy dumppipe (the short style) that goes to a front pipe that goes into a cat. It then proceeds to a cannon muffler before depositing black crap all over the rear of the car. The other day BHDave and I found that from the x-force dumppipe, which has a 2.5" outlet (quite possibly even 2") goes into a 3" pipe that has been squashed together and welded to a 2" flange. It then goes into a 3" high flow cat (I assume), and into my xforce copy cannon which has a 3" inlet but steps down in the middle to 2.5" into a 4.5" tip. I had always assumed the whole thing from turbo to tip was 3". I went to the exhaust shop last Saturday to ask them to chop the 2" flange from my front pipe and put on a 3" one - they said there would be little point doing that because my front pipe outlet is so small. They suggested they could cut the flange from the dump pipe and the flange from the front pipe, then put 3" flanges on both. My turbo is a t518z 10cm (I think). I would assume that the outlet on it is 2.5" and the best case scenario would be that it travel to a 3" front pipe with the seperate wastegate runner connecting back into the main pipe just before the cat... so the front and dump pipe would be one. For the $50 they were going to charge me to put on a new flange I would have been happy if the dump pipe was 3" outlet and then going into a true 3" pipe, not a squashed 3" pipe with a 2" flange welded on it. Do you guys think it's better to get a new frontpipe? I'm currently a little down on power and I think one of the things contributing would be the exhaust stepping down from turbo>2.5" (dump pipe)>2" (the offending flange)>3"(the pipe)>2.5"(the cannon). The other half solution is do what they said and replace both flanges with 3" one. Atleast that way the turbo would go into the dump pipe then into the 3" flanged pipe... but really is there any point if the dumppipe itself is smaller than 3"? I also have a 'tuned length' stainless steel manifold. Help what do I do!?! :hellpisd:

There's one going around the St Ives/Gordon/Killara area people keep spotting with plates ASQ something or similar. Apperantly it's a worked beast so probably nicer and faster than mine So yeah if you say it's tidy it wasn't my car

Entirely possible if it was busted up and before around 7pm.. to be honost I can't remember where I was

pics please

bump bump bump need more peoples.

Good luck man hope it turns up. SAU are a nice bunch

Great little car, one of my best mates owns one. They're responsive, they're fast... but... They don't handle all that great stock standard. My mate spent just under $2k on handling and then it handled nice... so keep that in mind. Maintenence can be a bit of a cost, especially with parts and for example I've -heard- (can't confirm) a clutch change is an engine out job. They're not easy to "do up"... that is .. with my sr20 if I wanted a manifold, I just bought one and put it on.. Sure it took me 6hrs and $300 but if you did that to a GTiR it'd be $800 for the manifold and an engine out job. Similarly if you wanted to put on an exhaust, you'd have to order it or have it built, not just jump on the forums and buy one. Stock parts are also harder to find than say a silvia or skyline, but the advantage is there is less of the GTiR on the road. In the end I still prefer my cefiro even though the GTiR has me on the corners, my car is still so much more damn fun to drive. There's the control factor of having to keep the tail in but still apply power, and there's no wishy washy understeer feeling of a FWD car being turned AWD as you get with the GTiR. Having said that however, that wishy washy understeer goes through the corner faster than my car ever could...

I'm happy that you're happy with your car. But I use the white colour scheme and so I couldn't read your writing without highlighting it Sounds like a beast of a car.

Fuark that sucks I'd be angry as and not taking it. Get a statuatory declaration from the witness and send that through to your insurance handler to -their name and registered post-. A bit of offical-ness usually makes geeks take a bit more notice.

Find a grandma. '69-'71' Ford Falcon. Fords pre 1975 don't count as fords we know ... for $3000 you'd have a great tow vehicle imo .. everything else on it is lego so long as you have no rust one and insurance is cheap.

Hooooooge wheels. And quite probably lipped guards.