Beer Baron

less talky, more orderey.

R34 GTR master is 46010-AA320 R32 GTR V-spec master is 46010-05U02 not sure what that includes, so order one then tell me!

schooners? wtf has melbourne done to you troy. it's pints or get out where we come from.

it was good to see a new face adrian. and yeah, dunno if I'd call it a stack really. more just nudged over a pint to see what would happen. the best part was when the bar chick came over and just said: "well I'm not cleaning it up. do I look like a fking cleaner? don't worry about it it'll absorb" she was tops. must have been all those 50c tips we left. Easto and I even got the odd free drink out of her. and how cool is this, she said when people come up short for the bill she just chucks in the rest out of the tip jar! nice.

we call him. "australian flag underwear boy". i must say he is a handsome devil.

haha, no pics. It's too unkind I think. if you want to see what goes on, you have to come along. ever since this photo I've been scared off using a camera at all:

should be fine. I had a 18X10.5 +18 on my 33 GTR. running smallish tyres though, 255s all round but no problems with that set-up at all.

not to worry. if engine goes bad I have an RB26 ready for you Just say the word

that pide was awesome. beef and mushroom is a great combo. and I spent more on pide than i did on booze I think.

lol, we were all pretty well behaved if my sketchy memory serves me. we didn't even get booted which is a first. though we did get cut off which I guess is pretty much the same. Top night had by all. it's been far too long since I punished a kidney that hard. Kel is welcome back anytime. she kept up the pace pretty well. and it gives us some cred having a women there as without kels it's just a bunch of dodgey looking blokes with mo's that look like a village people revival group. with a lady present we can pass for hetro. nice

I can't wait to hear the answer to this I have the same question. I have done some research and can tell you the 32 GTR Vspec brake master costs about $360 brand new. The 34 GTR master costs a measly $280. (both prices approx off the top of my head). The only differences I can see in them is the shap of the fluid resevoir but I'm not sure if they come with our without the resevoir. I say buy a 34 GTR master, then tell me if it fits.

happy birthday snowboy. I hope your jeanie grants that wish of GTR reliability that we all lust after.

this could work quite well. I hear all sorts of blokes in melbourne have been giving troy the shaft. by all accounts he enjoys a shafting. it's a win win situation.

lol, i never said it sets rear castor. I just said to think of it "like" a rear castor rod as it acts in a similar way/similar plane. obviously it's not castor as you don't steer with the rear wheels (well if you still have hicas you do a little, but that doesn't count). yes it does affect/adjust camber too, but trust me it's main purpose is to set the angle of the upright front to rear.

10-4 red leader. but be advised you will need to catch up if you turn up late.

trust me!! have a look at it. it's pulling/pushing the arm forwards/backwards as much as in/out. and 100% there are only bushes in one end of it. the other (rear) end is a fork which bolts to the hub. consider this. a factory R32 skyline has rear camber adjustment as standard. how do you adjust it? with the upper control arm (eccentric bolt). the traction rod is not adjustable from factory. I'm not saying it doesn't affect camber, because it does. but adjusting it is mainly to adjust the angle of the upright. again, it's called a traction rod as adjusting it affects rear traction. Places like heasmans have spent a lot of time in recent years adjusting the rod to achieve different goals (for drifters they set it for less traction, for circuit use, more traction etc).

traction rod does have a small effect on camber, but it mainly adjusts the angle of the upright. it's called a traction rod as adjusting this angle effects traction. i've also called upper control arm (just like the other one), and trailing arm. but traction rod is as good a term as any. think of it kind of like a casor rod for the rear. the main way you are adjusting camber at the rear is the main upper control arm. also, the traction rod bushes can't go at both ends as it only has a bush on one end. the other end is a fork.

exactly, in terms of stopping distance they can't. it's nearly always the tyres that are the limit here. the main benefits you get with better brakes are better feel, and resistance to fade. poor brakes may be as good over 1 stop. but over 10 stops the bigger/better brakes will be able to repeat they performance where as poor ones will drop off.

and just to reiterate, have a look at any top level motorsport operation. none of them have sharks with freakin lazer beams on their heads for alignment. always using set squares, dials and string lines to check and adjust wheel alignment and chassis.

good man eug, jumping in the deap end is the way to go. I have used one of the ikeya kits on a friends car in japan and it's pretty good. I've also used one we made from some flat aluminium bar, string and bulldog clips... lol. eug and 2630GTS. yes adjusting one arm affects the other. the biggest thing to watch when adjusting camber and castor is they both can affect the toe to some degree. and toe is probably the most important of the front end alingment. there is a proper order in which to peform wheel alingment (ie, toe, camber, castor, toe) but I can't remember it off the top of my head too many hits to the head I think. rear end alingment is just as complex as you have toe, camber and what is effectively castor (rear upright angle adjusted with the traction rod). 2630gts, once you give up the laser beams you will never look back! I promise. I used to be a big fan of massive castor on the front end, and just a little camber (about 2.2degrees neg). but I've grown out of it. Things are nicer when you are getting quick with a bit less castor, and a bit more camber (more like 3 degrees neg). Toe makes a huge difference too. all this is for track obviously. the whiteline bushes will probably put your castor about right (6 degrees pos).

like I said there is no problem doing it. with calipers, rotors, pistons, seals, pads anything. if you are really concerned about it put some 1mm thick shims behind your pads (which is a good idea anyway). as for larger rotor not being worthwhile. it's very worthwhile. the caliper now has more leverage as it's operating further out from the centre. also larger rotor means larger capacity to dissipate heat across it's surface. all good things.

lol. we will have to agree to disagree on this one! Laser machine, great for taxi-cabs, not so good for track cars. let me put it this way, look into a V8 Super car team, or an F3 team or pretty much any motorsport operation either in the pits or back at their workshop, and you will see none of them use laser alingers, and it's not down to cost.

lol, all mark has is his memorys.... to be honest I've always thought mark was really after duncan. he just puts on a hetro front as he knows he wont be allowed into the arrie when they find out how camp he is.

there is no problem doing it. the 30mm minimum thickness is for that specific rotor. the 33 brembo rotors have a minimum thickness of 28mm.

lol, it was adam. I think maybe he doesn't remember about how offical sau is and was just trying to raise the level on spelling on the forum. but we all know this really is offical. no doubt.