89CAL

Sounds like the condensor is in a poor state at a rough guess. Might cost you $20 or so but take it to an auto elec and get them to throw some gauges on it and make sure the gas is all good. But to me if it works fine when travelling at decent speeds, id sort out your condensor fan and give it a clean out with a pressure cleaner. Just be careful not to hit the fins at an angle or you will wreck it. Hold the spray straight on the fins

I dont have any experience with Autos but I had issues when I went from atmo BOV back to stock. Cleaned AAC and all that and it didnt help. Reset the ECU and it returned to idle fine But im not sure if you are running stock ECU The TPS on auto has a digital and analog input to the ECU. The on off part is important on Autos if I recall correctly ( the analog voltage signal is important to both auto and manual) the digital input is easy to check with a meter, run a continuity check accross the 2 pin plug with throttle closed and then open the throttle. It should go from closed circuit to open (or vice versa, been a while since I checked) The other analog sensor is best checked with consult or the correct software for your ECU. Should be 0.45V

Atmo BOV? - Get rid of it Factory ECU? - After cleaning AAC valve, try resetting the ECU (disconnect battery, operate lights etc, to drain residual power, re-connect battery, start car) It has been covered qutie a few times before.

I was always told not to use anti sieze on alloys. Ive never had any issues with my plugs and I always install them dry

Basically what im saying. Its hard to say you have fixed the issue when I can run 10w40 and my lifters are silent. Better to find the real issue then have a major problem. End of the day it doesnt bother me what oil you run. I tried to help

I'm running 10w40 on a Fully forged engine in a town that sees 35 degrees in summer quite often, I've never had an issue. Admitedly I'm not racing the thing, but the lowest pressure I've seen at idle was about 11psi. This was on a hot day, stuck in a multi story car park trying to get out. General rule is 10psi/1000rpm, if you are seeing that pressure with a good synthetic oil, there is nothing to worry about. Mine is nearly double that figure usually driving around, so how is a heavier oil better then running my 10w40 synthetic? Also consider that by regularly running the oil over the relief, you are heating that oil up even more. I'm aware this is not such a big deal as it is in hyrdaulics with 1000's of PSI of pressure involved, but it still plays a role. I'm sure there are plenty of people on here that will vouch for the same/similar weight oils to mine, I'm just struggling to see where the need to run such a heavy oil, It just doesn't make sense to me for an RB25

I like KU31's as a street tyre for just normal driving. Plenty of confidence in the wet. I run Yokohamas now (not sure on type) and they are a little quieter but I dont think they are quite as good in the wet. Depends what OP uses the car for primarily

What pricing are you looking at and what will be included in the kit/what will have to be sourced? Part of me is really keen, but then another part of me thinks I should save the time/money and live with stock as im not having any issues. Too hard to make decisions on this car sometimes lol

Why are you running such heavy oil? And if you have tuned the car surely the rings have bed in now and you can go to synthetic oil 5bar at what RPM? And what sort of oil pressure are you getting when its idling cold?

Too much fuel in the cranking table by the sounds of it. Should not have issues starting the car right after it was tuned.

Pull the CAS out, plug it in and with the key on rotate it. Make sure there is fuel and spark. Will have to pull a plug out and check it is sparking, should hear the injectors If it really smells rich, the pump is probably working fine, but have to say it - check fuel pump is priming. If you have fuel and spark, thats half the battle one, you know the CAS is working and everything is plugged in. You havent fouled the plugs messing around with it? Somewhere to start from anway. Back to basics is always the best place to start. Is it stock ECU?

Yeah was going to mention direct injection. Good stuff that

You dont give it any revs if the car is running I think you mean you need to press the throttle pedal If you need to give it some throttle, then you need to give it more air, sounds like the car is to rich on start up cranking enrichment needs adjustment What ECU?

Ahhh yes, of course lol. Remembered for most of my post that it was a Neo by not saying stupid things like check your ignitor is plugged in

Belt was put on with all marks lined up? Check the locator for the CAS hasnt gone (either from the cam or the CAS), if its gone, it is possible to put it on in the wrong spot. If its gone, should be able to line it up from looking at it, then install Did you forget to plug anything in around the head? Forget any earth lugs etc?

The Ferrari would have been slightly more suited to Alonso because he had been with Ferrari for a few years as thier number one. Kimi arrived at Ferrari late 2013/early 2014, so would have had very little to do with development in the car. And the fact that its very different to last years car wouldnt help Not saying its all the cars fault, but I hardly think Kimi has become a crap driver over the summer. I'm not saying there is nothing to be learnt from F1, but as for Internal combustion engines, I don't believe there is too much more to learn about fuel economy from the F1 engines. Most of the extra fuel economy is coming from the hybrid technology etc at the moment. This is worthwhile in terms of R&D Some of the road cars today have great fuel technology, and some have some pretty crazy L/100km figures.

Is it possible that the speedo sensor on the gearbox is broken? You seem convinced its a cluster issue, but have you done anything to prove its at that end?

I hope they go through with it It always confuses me a little bit, why they want to make the cars so fuel efficient. Engine manufacturers already know how to do that, they are not going to learn anything from F1 engines. The KERS systems make sense to me, but let them go nuts with the engine, it is motor racing after all It would be great if they increased the maximum fuel flow, let them rev up to near 20,000rpm again and a few other minor tweaks. Sounds like a winner to me anyway

As per the previous discussion in your other thread. Test current draw with a clamp meter on the blue cable with the switch isolated. Move everything but the battery positive cable to the other side of the isolator. Theres no reason that anything else should be on the battery side of the altenator. Unless you have picked up the battery cable after it goes to the altenator but im assuming the yellow cable is the battery feed to the altenator If so then it can be on the other side. The altenator is never charging with the switch off so no need to be over there If you are worried about too many things hanging off one side of the switch, then you can fit a small junction block after the isolator and just run one thick cable from the isolator to the junction block

Spend the money once and do it right.

Those injectors look like full lengths Id go these ones ( I think Sub Boy bought them to my attention not long ago) http://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-rb-1000ccmin-top-feed-direct-fit-fuel-injector-kit/ If you are dead set on 1000cc these would be the ones to get Personally I dont trust ebay when quite a few trusted companies are selling ID's/Bosch injectors at a decent price

The problem with having nothing to cool the oil (e.g. removing the heat exchanger) is that if the oil does get a little warm, there is no failsafe. The 25 comes with a cooler, not to mention its designed to work in Japan which is cooler than here. Im not saying it absoloutly 100% will cause issues. Its just not a risk I would like to take. As for the cams, im still a bit confused why people fit big cams on 25's that, at the same time, remove VCT. I know with my baby cams ive 'just for fun' unplugged the VCT solenoid and gone for a drive and its not anywhere near as nice These are only my opinions, I dont expect anyone to agree/follow what I say. Noone is necessarily 'right' when planning an engine build

Are you planning on driving it at powercruise? If so I would suggest finding the time to install an oil cooler

Get gauges on ASAP. That might tell more of the story. Although not sure where you are going yo put the oil temp sensor as usually I would expect this to go in a line to an oil cooler to save false readings from engine heat

Hmm I wonder if the oil is thinning out too much wothout the heat exchanger or a cooler. Id do the service and put the gauges in asap I use penrite 10 tenths 10w40. Only problem I ever have is on cold start I have a little bit lf lifter tick till oil gets around the head but other than that no issue