89CAL

No thread yet? I actually got the Camera out on the way back from Airlie Beach and snapped a few photos I thought were cool. Have only had time to play with one so far, so here starts the December photo Thread: George Barney by 89CAL, on Flickr

I forgot for a second that there are trophies for positions other than 1st, was thinking 'that can't be right, there are far more trophies then races there!' rookie mistake.....

I don't really like the Exo movement on Advanced warefare. I can see they are trying to move forward and add something new to the game, but it becomes a little annoying. I know there is an option to play without it, but all the maps are made with exo movement in mind and that sort of spoils it It is far better than ghosts, but still nowhere near as good as BO2 or MW3 or maybe I just like how much better I am at those 2 lol.....

This is all a guess, but they may suffer the same problem as R33 mirrors. There are 2 contacts with a single plastic mount to hold them in, they sometimes fall out. Have a look at the guide for the R33 mirrors (Pretty sure there is one in the DIY section) If they are anything like the R33 mirrors, they arent too hard to pull apart, just a bit fiddly to get everything packed back inside. If your up to it, try pulling them apart and having a look

The fold In part or the actual mirror movement? If its mirror movement then im not sure about you but I rarely adjust mine so maybe they just failed over time sitting If its the mirrors folding in and you use them all the time then that may be a different story

We dont 'Know' what it will be Youll either have to pull it apart and check or take it to someone Or get a new one

Got a multimeter? See if there is a good circuit from a fuse (unswitched power) to the AC plug. If it was an r33 I could ive you more help but I only have a diagram for an r33 On the R33's the constant power feed is recieved from a joint connector and Fuse #7

One of the plugs out of the head (if they use similar ones to the rb25's)? Put something next to them for a reference? Not sure if they are 2mm wide or 2cm wide

Have you done simple things like checking plugs, making sure you havent left anything unplugged etc or a line off? Seems like you have just jumped to the worst possible scenario

I would think if the diaphram was wrecked then you would get fuel out the nipple with the vac line off and car running Not 100% on this, there may be a safety in place but just my assumption of what would happen

I was just saying the problem with your statement was that air getting in is not going to be the consequence at the water pump. That will be coolant getting out, thus creating hot air pockets and then causing issues. You bust a fuel line off and you dont think 'oh crap, air will probably get In there'

How can air get into it? Sounds more like the coolant got out and the cooling system ran with air in it Guarantee water will come out of the pump, air wont get in there OP: Have you tried somewhere like Kudos Motorsport? From memory my kit with OEM water pump and idlers, belt and seals was less than $500

Agree with this. Pretty sound advice if you are willing to pull it apart to check those things

10psi or more per 1000rpm is fine

The gauge should come with instructions. We can't do everything for you

The plug is in the block. It will be a bitch to do with the engine in the car and everything attatched to it but not impossible

Its a 1/8 npt or bspt extension. Cant remember if its bspt or npt sorry but get one of each if all else fails. Will only be cheap

I'm tossing up wether or not to buy it. I don't really have time to play formula 1 or new COD so don't see myself getting time to play GTA as well. Looks great but, maybe after I am finished with COD

Not sure if this is silly question, but what exactly is the base map (been messing around with an RB26 D-Jetro) I have only ever really messed with RB25 Power FC's and have never seen the base map before. Having trouble getting it to start, but it idles fine once its running so just wondering if the Base map might be the issue. Played with the Cranking ms etc and still doesnt want to start.

Should be fine oil wise. I took the plug out when the engine was out of the car

I quite like the electronics in the car. Lets face it, Its what the future holds, and it is fairly impressive what they can do. I wonder if Honda have got a good engine. They did test it in a modified McLaren not long ago, but didn't really pay much attention (I think it was more of a promo or gentle shakedown) so no real useful information for us folk out of it

As already discuss. You just need the little extender for the side of the block then your gauge sensor will screw in. Easy. I ran a fitting and braidedline to a couple of fittings in order to run 2 sensors but OP doesnt need that

The passanger one is harder to check because it has a heat shield over it I never even knew mine was stuffed till I changed my engine out. Was going to swap them to Nismo items anyway, so lucky cause this is what the passenger side looked like:

Did you bleed the master first then the slave? kept fluid up to it while you were doing it? done it for a while to get all the air out? I think you can tell if its the master or the slave by looking for leaks around them while its pressed in. Or the master may have stuffed seals if you watch the fluid level while pushing the clutch in, You should see it drop a bit

Keen to see how Honda's engine goes. Also hoping Renault step things up purely so Ricci can have a good go at the championship next year. I'm happy to say he is a genuine title contender for 2015 (unless Renault/Red Bull screw up) Hopefully next years Ferrari suits Kimi a bit better, but I think it may also suit Vettel if thats the case. Have to wait and see