89CAL

I just got 1000cc top feeds I have to put in. They will be plenty for the moment Might look into the walbro pumps a bit more. I just love how easy my nismo pump was to install and how nice it runs. But it wont last forever and I'd rather replace it as a preventative measure rather than reactive when it fails

Anything that is 12V and emits sound will work. You can put a horn there if you really want Should be easy to go in to Jaycar and ask them for a 12v siren for a car alarm. The one you have linked should be fine, assuming it just needs a signal from the alarm to go off

I used the supplied grease with mine. I think (but it was a while ago) I installed them dry, then noticed the noise and thought I would try with the grease, but didn't really make a difference. I think I was going to remove the diff completely till I realised I'd have to remove the rear of the exhaust and Couldnt be bothered getting gaskets (even though in hindsight that would have been easy lol) so I probably removed the driveshafts off the diff and hung the diff down.

How hard is the Walbro E85 pump to mount in an R33? I have the Tomei/Nismo pump at the moment, and its great, but is a few years old now and thinking of upgrading it. Just not too sure if its worth the trouble of fitting the Walbro pump or not Hoping to have E85 at the pump here soon. I'm pretty sure the Nismo pumps handle it no worries, but the Walbro one is designed to run 85 and flows more so seems like a smart choice

Can you do me a favour? Just spray underneath the car with some water (fair bit) and then go for a drive, mine usually clunks when taking off from a standstill Interested to see if the washers have helped, I didn't bother fitting the suplied spacer because it was no good at all, but might fit a standard washer as you've done if you dont have any issues with clunks etc.

Injectors?

I thought you didnt want to wait for replacement rear bushes from super pro?

Driveclub out now, anyone picked it up? Think I might go buy it tomorrow, even though I'm not real sure what to expect

No, they are just saying that the HKS turbos used a cropped wheel. So the 2835 is a cropped 3071, the 3037 i believe is a cropped 3076 HKS 3037 and 2835 are two completely different turbos, the 3037 will deliver more power with more lag.

Put your old ones back in and test with them

Talk to stao about an ss1pu. Sounds like what you want. Go look at his thread. Index on first page

Stao has just told you what going internal gate would cost. Price an external gate plus some fab work then do some maths. we dont know what is better for you

You cant tell the condition of a turbo from photos, unless there is an obvious problem (eg. blades damaged) You need to feel the shaft for play etc

I am sort of with you on this. The only thing they should have changed, and alot of people are agreeing, is the start time. From what the drivers are saying, the fading light played a part in it. And they knew a Typhoon was coming. If it was just a storm, I could understand, but when they were going to feel affects from a Typhoon, thats always a bit worse then just a storm or rain. It is pretty much a freak accident. Seen as Sutil had just aquaplaned off in the same spot, you cant say its completly suprising, but still the odds of hitting hte JCB at that angle and in that spot is pretty crazy That JCB would probably weigh anywhere from 3-5ton as well, makes you think about the amount of force involved when the thing seemed to have been lifted and pushed like it was. I think its a credit to the cars/helmets etc that he survived at all.

Did you start and run the car and try them out? Start simple, check voltages at the lights. Remove them one by one to see if it is just one in particular that causes the issue or if it is an issue when they are all in at once Being LED's they draw next to no current so if your halogen lights worked then LED's should ASSUMING they are the right ones for the job. They arent 24v LED's or something silly?

I used to run my power FC with o2 feedback off and just watch it on my wideband while driving. Just needed a quick tune up as the seasons changed but way better than what it was doing with o2 feedback on. I would get it fluctuate constantly and fairly quickly between 14.1:1 and 15.5:1. Simulated narrowband using the wideband would be the go but It never phased me too much. It was easy enough to adjust a couple of cells for cruise if needed ( and honestly didnt have to change it that often

have you got 02 feedback on still? If you have 02 feedback on and your tune goes a little leaner then the sensor can see, it sends the AFR's a bit crazy, tend to fluctuate 1AFR or more

It sounds to me like the fan speed control is no good and someone has dodgied it up Usually the fan speed is done through a resistor pack or such, 3 different value resistors, for speeds 1,2,3 and then direct voltage for 4. Seen as the 32's have climate control, I would tend to agree wtih above, that the fan speed is done through the actual climate control unit. If possible, borrow another one and test it out. I've had to replace the little resistor pack in a backhoe and a volvo truck before, Depends on how it is designed, but it usually does the same thing - no fan until its put on the maximum fan setting. Not a great deal of help but just some things I've experienced.

I think its actually a yellow flag now that I've looked at a couple of other news articles. Must just be something that happened when it was turned into a GIF. You can see that it is yellow in another photo. Or perhaps it was changed to yellow after the crash

I think he is talking about the backing plate?

anyone else find it a little ironic that there is a waved green flag right next to all this?

Isnt the left hand section just bolted on somehow? You will need to move it out of the way to do it properly

Only because they used to be press fit bushes. The front diff mounts I have are whiteline ones but they are a similar design to the standard ones anyway. Im relatively sure its the rear bushes. Its not a big issue. The noise goes away when it all dries up. But it does annoy me a little

I had intenitons of doing a proper write up, but must have got lazy and just put the photos in that thread. FYI, i didnt have to use the supplied washerto space the diff anywhere, I think it might be for S-chassis? Or maybe Z32. But anyway. I find when I drive around in the wet for a little while I end up getting a fair knock in the back. It scared me a bit the first few times, but now I know what it is, I dont think about it so much lol. Would be nice to fix it, so maybe I will put the super-pro ones in one day. Want to do subframe bushes so should do it all then

OP: As with what some of the others have suggested, you need to list what oil you are using. To me it sounds like the oil you are using becomes to thin as it warms up. I would suggest changing oil if there is no problem while the gearbox is cold and then gets worse as it warms up