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Everything posted by 89CAL
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I feel if you can't find the dipstick, you shouldn't be servicing your car
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R32 Gtr Really Poor Fuel Economy After Tune
89CAL replied to Midnight_Blue_32's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Have you got a permanent wideband install in the car? I'd suggest getting one if not so the link can run closed loop lambda -
How To Get More Power From A Naturally Aspirated (na) Engine
89CAL replied to Eug's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
That doesn't belong in this thread You have a wiring or earth problem somewhere. Look around anything you have touched recently -
In r33's you get that issue if the ambient temp sensor behind the dash is unplugged/faulty. Everything is cold except for the hottest setting
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Almost Ready To Re Assemble Rb26. Need Some Advice
89CAL replied to Blackkers's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Cross - hatch and junk -
I'd get a new turbo line if it was me. That looks fairly crap But that is just me
- 21 replies
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- Turbos
- Coolant leak
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(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
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I'd get a new turbo line if it was me. That looks fairly crap But that is just me
- 21 replies
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- Turbos
- Coolant leak
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(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
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Almost Ready To Re Assemble Rb26. Need Some Advice
89CAL replied to Blackkers's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I'd suggest if you are using an MLS head gasket, that you take it to a machine shop and get them to surface the block properly. It won't seem so great having done it at home when it leaks, those gaskets need a pretty damn good mating surface -
if you have a buff gun that is the easiest way to do it. You basically want a nice smooth surface with no gouges/scratches etc check the steel line doesnt have any cracks as well if I havent already said that
- 21 replies
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- Turbos
- Coolant leak
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(and 2 more)
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Just buy a nistune/aftermarket ECU. You will be amazed how much better it runs The ECU will be confused with the extra airflow it's getting and I would put money on what your seeing being a case of R&R
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This ^^
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Blocked Bov And Still 'whooshing' Through Pod Filter
89CAL replied to schnorky's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Something is wrong. Either you have a massive huge leak in your cooler piping post turbo, your turbo is not real happy or I don't even know what else. That is really odd -
If you have both copper washers fitted and have done it up tight enough, and its still leaking, then i would be checking for a crack in the pipe somewhere. copper washers aren't that fragile. are both mating surfaces for the copper washers clean?
- 21 replies
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- Turbos
- Coolant leak
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(and 2 more)
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Not sure if its in this thread or another one, but someone has mentioned wrapping the steel wool in a good quality stocking to stop it from seperating. Alternatively just buy a baffled catch can. Mine is baffled, havent had an issue yet. Doesnt appear to have burnt a drop of oil
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Till your elbow clicks
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And heres mine plumbed into intake: Edit-3161 by 89CAL, on Flickr My PCV is plumbed into the manifold as well, bit hard to see in this photo Theres both options for you anyway
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Not so much a problem, more so a question. Are you over thinking things? I know your probably trying to do something different to find a new way to do things, but wouldn't a baffled catch can with sump drain and vac from the intake work fine?
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won't that pressurise the catch can and therefore the head (through the cam cover breathers) when under high load/rpm due to exhaust backpressure? I know you said you have no back pressure, but have you actually put a gauge on it? I'd be suprised if you hadless than 2psi back pressure at full boost. Depends on what turbo/exhaust you are running, but I'd be very suprised if you had 0 back pressure
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Pressure is indirectly proportional to flow To the OP, I'm guessing you were talking about the cylinder shaped object between the oil inlet and the line? It looks like it might contain a mesh filter to me, but the easiest thing to do would be to pull it off the other fitting and have a look. If it has a mesh filter inside it should come apart for cleaning. If its a one way/check valve (and I'm not real sure why you would put one there) then you can test that by blowing through both ends. If its a restrictor, and it seems WAY over the top for that, you should be able to blow through it but feel quite alot of restriction. In my head theres no way its a restrictor, there are much more discreet/compact ways to do this
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Not as much of a pain in the ass as having your car roll away when you park it on a hill and your handbrake fails. I know it sounds like I'm thinking 'worst case scenario' but these things do happen, and if it does your not going to think it was a pain in the ass to jack the car up then. For the sake of an hours looking over everything, its worth it in the long run
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This sounds more like what happened
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to say the least. Even if the alarm is spliced into the stereo wiring, it should still work with the alarm unplugged. Sounds like a really odd problem, But I would plug the stereo back in (assuming you still have it) just to confirm the alarm works when the stereo is in. Then start at your radio wiring and work back You didnt cut the wires for the stereo plug and bridge an active to an earth? This should have blown a fuse, which might explain the problem. But as said, put the stereo back in first, that will at least rule out a fuse etc
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I'm not familiar with that game title I have no car games at the present. I actually just started playing The Last of Us on PS3, because I got it free. Kinda want to get it on PS4, but why pay for something I already have I figure. Good game but What games were like 'Twisted Metal' style on PS3? I'm having trouble thinking of any at the moment
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Wut? Your car has no handbrake in it at the moment and your just going to hook up the lever without checking the rest of it over? Being that its brakes (I know handbrake is nowhere near as vital as normal brakes) I'd be checking every inch of it if it hasnt been working/used in ages. Wouldnt want something to fail and watch your car roll away....... Well I know I wouldnt. Just Jack it up, its not that much effort for piece of mind. If it were me I'd pull the back wheels off and adjust the brake shoes as well
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The stock panel filter in the airbox