89CAL

Yeah thats a fair argument, that drivers are more willing to go 'all out' if they know they can write the round off if it goes wrong. But I like having every round count, I think it makes everything a bit fairer, the slightly better drivers should do slightly better if you know what I mean.

My money is on this, or they are worn. There is not really that much play in the backing plate when the rubber washers are fitted and in good order.

Didn't Vettel have the same helmet in singapore? Maybe it was Qualifying yesterday I'm thinking of I'm more shocked about Red Bull immediatly promoting Kvyat then Vettel leaving. Seems like they could have sucked in any driver they wanted if they had just let the seat for next year be Vacant for even a week. Kvyat has shown he can race, but agree with whoever said on the previous page that he doesnt seem quite ready to step up. I'm a bit annoyed, This is the only race I get to watch live while I'm away for work, and I would have just snuck in the full race if it was dry, but now I'm going to miss the end lol. Damn rain

Post up if you find you get some clunks when its wet, make sure you post it here. Im interested to seen if it is a nolethane thing

What was this full r33 kit? No idea what you were actually trying to do on the first place.

Id talk to super pro about it. Im convinced those style bushes would be better. Maybe you were sold the wrong part or there has been a bad batch produced. Either way you should get free replacements

Odd the diagram shows nothing in the line between the sensor and the cluster. There is a VSS module inside the cluster that might alter the signal out If you dont want the cluster, maybe you could pull it apart and have a look whats inside, then either add the same thing to the circuit or pull the VSS module out of the cluster and run it inline. I wouldnt think it would be a resistor it needs in the circuit because as far as I know the ECU wants to see frequency, so pulses/second etc

Yeah you will find that if anything turns the A/C compressor off it is the switch on the accelerator pedal when at WOT The Air con shouldnt cause that many problems under heavy load, if you are having AFR's go weird at higher loads then I think you have a more serious issue As for the AFR's on cruise, its been a while since I have played with FC Edit but I think there is only provision to adjust the idle RPM when the AC comes on. I cant recall if there is any fuel correction for AC but im fairly sure there isnt. To be honest though, if your leanest AFR at cruise is 16:1 then I wouldnt have a problem with that (assuming you are running on 98 octane). I usually aim for 15.7:1 at cruise and havent had an issue.

Ignore the resistor. It's just showing the sensor itself and how it is drawn. Bit decieving in that diagram, the one I have shows the speed sensor (as pictured, then wiring which goes through a plug on the way to the cluster

I can't find a resistor in my wiring diagram. Can I ask which diagram you are using? I wasnt sure if you had a standard ECU or not. The Link ECU's allow you to modify the speed sensor input frequency to road speed, so if your speed is a little out on the ECU, you can adjust it to give true road speed

Can you play with the speedo signal with your ECU? Ill see if I can find anything in the wiring diagram but dont recall any in the cluster

No just need to select the A1 folders etc. Seems odd. I do recall there were certain vins that didnt work (but I thought these were pretty rare) so maybe try another VIN. Is it possible the R34 VINS being looked for are from later on then the year the books go up to? Say for instance if they are a 1999 copy of the parts books but you are looking for a 2002 model? no idea just a thought

Have you got the folders with the books in them somewhere in their subfolders (a1, a2 etc)? You need to go to NFset.exe I think it is and manually select the books. I think there are 8 slots, but theres enough for the JDM books anyway. one book on each line Once your in NFset you should see the file path line and you can browse to select the folders Make sure you have all the A's and B's from memory in there (one folder for each line) then try again

put some solder between the connections in the indicator/headlight switch assembly. Easiest and probably best way to do it as you dont have to run wires etc. There is a photo of this in the DIY thread for this mod.

as long as the books (a1, a2 etc) are in the right spot and the program is looking in the right spot you shouldnt have a problem Sounds like you have used it before so I dont need to explain that the VIN is split into 2 boxes, Trying to think of any other tricks but non really come to mind

your not putting the aus part of the vin in are you? (6U900 or whatever it is) just go ECR33 12345 (as an example) Otherwise you can press the CD looking icon at the top and choose a model. Just makes it a bit of a pain when you go to look at illustrations as you have to pick the car from all the different options each time

oh i see what you mean, you want to push the bushes out. I saw C clamp and assumed you were doing subframe collars. Be real interested to know if you can remove the bushes without taking the subframe all the way out. I'd like to do this

Are you talking about the subframe collars with the slots cut in them? I installed mine without removing anything from what I can remember. Just Jacked the car up, supported it somewhere suitable (obviously nothing on the subframe, Then put a jack under the diff, undid the bolts and slowly lowered it just enough to get the collars in. Think one of these days I will pull my subframe out and do all the bushes properly. The collars don't seem to have done alot for me

It changes the spring rate basically. but if you loosen it to get lower spring rates then you run the risk of the spring falling out of the holders. If it were me I would just measure all the spring heights and adjust the one you changed to be the same height. You will need to use something accurate like vernier calipers (if you have any/any big enough) Then loosen the bottom one and spin the base to lower or raise the height. I put mine in the car and then adjusted them to suit the height I wanted. Measure the exposed thread, then adjusted the other side to be the same

Adjust the bottom one. Don't adjust the locks around the spring. Install them, get your ride height right and then play with dampers. I cant tell you damper setting 12 will be fine because what works for one person doesn't work for another. YOU know how you like your car to feel. Not me

Yeah I've been looking at that. Need to order some more supplies. Plenty of nice stuff for car detailing out there

No. Fit them and adjust the dampers to suit your style. If they are too hard then you should have bought them with lower spring rates or gone for replacement shocks and springs for the stock setup

Exactly. Why is this a thread?

V-band is great. They look much easier to run a gate off the turbine when it's side mounted. Mine is really tight on the low mount. Still good fun but

There should be a 2 pin plug somewhere near the AFM plug. Pretty sure it's in the same loom as the AFM plug. If I had my wiring diagram I could confirm and if you had the cable you could test it. If you can get a hold of the cable it would be great My Link G4 came with the USB cable so I figured the VIPEC would too