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Obviously they cant contact all the way to the hub for clearance issues. It looks like a normal contact area. Have you bed the pads in? (60-80km/h, then fairly heavy braking and repeat a few times) Cant remember if the box for the pads tells you exactly how to do it or not

They are probably just slotted as far as the process allows. I use QFM pads, not A1RM's but they are fine. Ive even been told my brakes are very good for standards compared to some other 33's As above though. Line them up next to your old ones. But if be suprised if you have an issue

Do it yourself. That way you KNOW its been done right. I dont know how many cases ive seen of people getting engines built and then something goes wrong because the apprentice helped put it together and didnt do something properly etc. I built my engine and have not had a single problem Its the more expensive option in this case but personally id rather spend the money and get it done right

Must admit, my girlfriends Polo GTI makes some nice sounds with the DSG and they shift so nicely. Still not a huge fan of the electronic throttle on it, but it beats her old Astra. Having an auto/DSG makes Electronic throttles less of a pain too. If you have ever driven one in a manual it is def worse then having a cable throttle. I'm still out on Electronic throttles. But they are getting there. And as said above, I'm sure in something more performance driven than the stuff I have played with, the electronic throttle is much nicer. I'm a bit oldschool, I quite like driving a car with no power steering or brake booster for fun, but as an everyday driver, I'd much rather have all the new stuff

Would lose VCT, unless you were willing to play with external feeds etc. Also the 26 block uses bigger head studs from memory. It sounds like a waste of time to me sorry. I know the idea of forged internals sounds great, but it's probably not worth it in the long run What HP are you running? If its anything around or below 300rwkw, it would be cheaper and much easier to get a 25 block. Even do that, get it honed, new rings and some ARP main studs etc will make it a fairly strong RB

I emailed them directly. I have an FC-Hako and they were still happy to help. Only took a day or so to reply

More than likely yes

I'll try and find a video of my HKS GT2835KAI, it had a surge slotted front cover and whistled like crazy without ever going terribly fast. Would even whistle going around car parks. Sounded pretty cool, just a shame it never lived up to the old Pro S The KAI had a removable 'snout' with the surge slots, I ended up getting another one made without the surge slots to see if it improved anything, think it may have improved torque slightly, noise was still there because the bolt holes for the snout were still in the front of the snout, had just lost the surge slots between them. Odd little turbo that one. They should have stuck with the Pro S

I wouldnt. Leaning your engineout and costing a fortune to replace/repair isnt cheaper then spending $200-$400 on a decent pump now is it? I know you probably don't want to spend more money, but in the long term its better to have a pump that you can rely on.

Yep you need V2.130k or newer (if they have made a newer version since then) I think I just emailed them and they just sent me the new version. With FC-Edit when you try and connect it makes some sort of .dat file (should notify you it is doing this because of incompatible version etc) and sent that off to them and they emailed me back the new copy of FC-Edit. Not sure if it will work for you, you may need to provide proof that you own the software. But worth a try

Change oil as suggested. If redline oil doesnt help then fairly safe to say worn synchro, or box will need disassembly to inspect

Phil has turned his back on Autobarn and Skylines. Traitor has bought a supra

Yeah exactly. Off throttle the gauge will go out of range (lean) because there should be no fuel going into the engine There is no point having an alarm on a wideband because it fluctuates so much. I highly doubt if it only has a 0-5v output that it would reference boost so I would just keep the alarm off. If it is mounted on the A-Pillar (just assuming) then usually you will notice if it is not right under load. Personally I'd ditch it and get a proper one. The Innovate gauge is a pretty nice bit of kit, and costs less than $200 from memory. Same with the AEM unit like I have. Not sure what the deal with the Innovate's are now, but the good thing about the AEM gauge/Wideband sensor, is that it never needs free air calibration. I know the old Innovate stand alone wideband kits reqired free air calibration, but not sure about the gauge kits.

Im guessing they meant you could data log through an ECU. The Power FC will allow you to do it through FC-Edit but you will need the datalogit and laptop connected to do it. Where as an ECU like a Link will log it all the time (as long as its wired right and logging is enabled) I agree with the above. If you REALLY want to log it then get an AEM UEGO or an innovate wideband gauge that has proper support for it. Although I dont see much point in logging it with what you have. Best off just using the gauge while driving. Glancing at it every now and then

I think these are the ones my tuner was telling me about a while ago. Says they are an awesome bit of gear, if you can use it to its full cabability. So many inputs and outputs and will do just about anything. But this is going back a while so I don't remember in great deal what was said (or even if he was talking about these, although pretty sure Emtron sounds right) so my input might not be terribly valid Basically, if you have been getting by with a Power FC, one of these is probably overkill. If you have use for all the functions then they are a good thing

The manual I have says to remove the AAC plug while adjusting idle. Its a pretty poor picture

So if its only a 5v output then I believe you will need some sort of medium capable of turning 0-5v signals into an output a laptop etc could read. My AEM wideband has a 0-5V output which is hooked up to my Link G4 and it also has a serial output that you can plug directly into a laptop (if you wire a serial plug to it) This is why it prpbably didnt come with software, 0-5V outputs from the gauge are usually to just output to an ECU that can read the signal

I looked at it the other day in JB but didn't really give it too much attention. Might have to take a closer look. Has anyone started a club on Driveclub? If there is enough people to get an SAU one going maybe we should do that. I stopped playing so I didnt have to do some of the events without some of the cars you unlock through clubs

Ive got the one blocked and the other is 1.5mm and I have no issues. I ran 15w50 and the lifters had a little noise for a few seconds after startup but switched back to 10w40 and it is happy as

Yep Unless someone has wired the stock sensor to one of the ECU's input. But I think it would be a bit innacurate for that, not sure but I'd rather use a better quality sensor

Im just lazy and call the whole thing AAC lol. Not sure what it does with the mixtures when you dont unplug it, so just adding that in

You need to disconnect either TPS or one of the plugs at the AAC to adjust it cant remember which one

Standard turbo? No restrictor as far as im aware

Pull the pipe off one end, pull hose off manifold, replace hose, refit pipe.......

If you want to use this car as a practice before you buy a GTR, I dont really understand why you didn't just buy a GTR, start off small and work your way up to an extreme setup. You can do a forged, High horsepower engine build, then slap standard turbos etc on it. Then you are free to chuck a turbo at it when you want to etc. Sorry I'm not being much help, but I dont really understand why you want to waste money doing it once on a GTS-t if your only going to go and upgrade to a GTR later anyway. I'm in too deep now that I can't switch to a GTR, the thought sometimes crosses my mind that I should have just got a GTR, but I like my car far to much.