89CAL

Oil cooler? I would suggest doing an oil change with some good synthetic oil (assuming run in is complete), see how that goes If you pull the oil cap off is there plenty of oil splashing around in the head? Im running out of ideas that dont involve removing the lifters for a look

I was sorta thinking this as well, but was putting it at the back of my mind for the moment Now that I think about it though, my old RB30 did this to its lifters one day: They are entirely different lifters yes, but crazy things do happen. Might not be the worst thing in the world to pull the cams out and have a look. The one lifter failing in the RB30 meant I had crazy lifter tick all the time

If the green one is from the battery and you put everything on the other side, nothing should work with the switch off. I wouldn't recommend flicking the switch with the engine running also. Not good for the ECU

I have 256 poncams. Ive not heard of such a thing, but trying to think if ive seen any hyd cams any bigger than 270. Dont remember. What weight oil? Also, why rb20 cams, why that size without vct? Sounds like it wouldnt be much fun off boost

Blue one, engine harness is on the battery side. Id be looking there. Switching off the isolator doesnt stop any drain in this circuit Find an auto electrician with a clamp meter and they will be able to see any current draw with that. If no current draw then possibly battery?

You've left out a few important things. What oil pump? Did you use oil restrictors, if so what did you use? What weight oil? Im running very similar power, boost and also running the same valve springs and dont have any issues. Get an oil pressure gauge as well

Where are all these wires (e.g. on the pressure switch) if you can tell me where they are ill see if it all makes sense

Keen to see it all fitted up. Should be a winner

Wasn't the 'plan' that Michelin cars had to run through the pits every lap I remember being on holidays at a relatives place, staying up by myself just so I could watch the race. Then being very disappointed in what happened

I have nismo 740's atm. Should still be a step up lol

Ahh right. Yeah I have seen a little bit on the new proper 1000cc's. Wish these were around when I'd bought mine but ill live

Shouldnt really. Once its low, its low. without turning the compressor on it cant gain any pressure. Sounds like you might be onto it.

Yes I believe the 2 switches are in the one unit (4 pin, suggests 2 x switches) Meter from fuse 16 to the relay and see if you get a circuit to 2 pins. I have found this is the case on other relays before, the power is fed from the same source, the ground is different.

I never said to disconnect no fuel lines But if they are disconnected, then yes pull fuse

The best way to check your plugs/coilpacks are actually doing something is to have a coilpack/s out, remove the CAS, turn the ignition on, ground the spark plug and then spin the CAS. FYI you have to spin it the right way so if nothing happens spin the other way. You can usually hear the injectors when you are spinning the right way anyway. I may be mistaken, it might be the injectors that will only work in the right direction. Dont remember, but no biggie anyway. Get a new ignitor, earth it and then try the above.

same sensor setup? or will you have to make a different bracket for the cam angle sensor? had a look in the link software for setting timing. Looks quite easy

The only thing I was told about the EV14 1000's is that if they are left sitting for a while you may get issues with ethanol, but driving all the time shouldnt have any problems The 1300cc Stainless injectors are the ones designed to cope 100% with ethanol, but you pay the price. 1000's should be fine unless the car sits for weeks on end etc

That looks much better

How are you checking the power here? Depending on how you are probing it depends on what reading you are getting Remember that the 2 probes are checking potential difference (delta V) so if you measure accross a switch for example that is switched off with 12V on one side and grounded on the other, you will get 12V accross it (as there is 12V difference across the switch. If you then close the switch, you will get 0V as there is no difference across the switch The best way is to put the black probe to a good chassis earth and then use the red probe to search for voltage. You may very well be doing this, but even if so have a think about how you are doing it. I have had similar things happen where voltage disappears when probing something but there isn't actually a problem 6.8V should be plenty to activate the coil, have you tried swapping relays? I'm guessing you have already checked for a good circuit to ground as well The pressure switch should work as an on/off switch. If it is very old (and most of us are in this boat) then I have seen some with buildup on the switch so it doesn't make great contact and you will get a small resistance there.

IGN fuse # 16 ----> A/C relay (both coil and switch are fed from the one fuse) -------> Pressure switch -----> Connector (M?) -------> Pin 9 on ECU The switched side of the relay goes to compressor then earth after the relay Edit: had wrong pin on ECU

I would assume so Is also triggered off water temp sensor at the bottom of the radiator

What about base timing adjustment? Or is this not an issue with crank/cam trigger systems?

Might not be an issue, its been a long time since ive done physics, but is there a chance with the force from the cam gear spinning that the bent tab near the sensor could move out and hit the sensor at high speed? Also, is there any way the stock CAS can be used as a reference by changing the disc inside it? Seen as its only a no.1 tdc compression reference it doesnt need to be as accurate Feel free to tell me to shutup

Nismo thermostat is for track. Just like the nismo water pump I built a full forged engine etc etc. Still only used a nissan oem thermostat. Its street driven. I have zero temp issues You can tune around it but its not the best on a power fc due to ( as discuss here) the lack of points to tune for wtr temp vs fuel correction Most modern cars run around the 90 degree mark. Ill say it again. The Nismo thermostat is for track cars. The car will perform fine if it is tuned to the adjusted water temp correction, but they are designed to go in track cars

How about putting a nissan thermostat in? It may be that you have a normal thermostat and its not functioning properly. Wouldnt hurt to change it out. Only have to drain the coolant, take the 3 bolts for the thermostat housing out and change it Fresh coolant wont hurt New thermostat should only be $30 or so. Worth doing if you dont know when it was last done