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I dont think timing is the problem here clearly the airflow and high injector duty are the main issues, which look to be a boost issue

Your having a minor fuel issue and your going to change the whole engine? Have you tried revving it and seeing if fuel comes out on engine decel?

I dont need a return flow. Just need a better one. Bought a GKtech intercooler kit years ago and I dont think the core is the best but havent tested it

Possibly the best way to do it is to wire up the power and illumination wires through relays and then group them togethet to the gauges (depending on if the illum wire lights it up or just signals the gauge) then you save loading up the power/illumination circuits wherever you grabbed them from Having said this, ive run mine directly to the wires with no problems. Think I just ran an extra fuse. I was just providing what would be my ideal setup, probably a relay powering a strip of accessory positives, a few illumination so you can just hook up what you want. But its a bit much for most setups

You dont have an air bag do you? If so it will be illegal to put a steering wheel with no airbag on Just get whatever you like, I bought a Momo Race, nice simple design

I think my cooler is only a cheap one, had it for 6 years now I think. Have recently been thinking about upgrading but can only fit a 76mm cooler. Is a good quality 76mm fine Stao you think? I have 3" cooler pipes everywhere so it gets plenty of flow to and from it. Just a bit worried about the cooler now

What turbo? Adjustable actuator? External wastegate? Dont think this has been mentioned yet, you might be able to turn the boost down that way If it were me I'd ring ERD (I think Dan was having some personal problems so not sure if they are still open but worth a try) and get some info like what boost it was tuned at etc. Adjust boost back to that level or lower if possible

I have Nismo 740s ill be selling in the new year. Would be lucky to have done 10,000km. Only a year old Im going bosch injectors because they are better but if you want to keep stock rail etc then id be happy to sell you mine in early/mid january

One of the bolt holes in my wing blade (r33 gtr) didnt line up.

4 is the rib count, the PK is the code for something, not sure at the moment. and the number is the length So yes, 880 is shorter than 950. I'm not sure what things are like in the States, but most of our common automotive stores over here have a book near the belts that tell you what fits what, as in you look up your car and it tells you what belt will fit which part of the engine Look on the Gates website or another company that makes micro v belts

Remember there is no pressure really on the manifold o-ring so it doesnt need to be a super tight seal, the top o-ring holds the pressure so this is much more important to get sealed right. It should be reasonably tight in the rail. My kit all seems normal. Adapters into the manifold are tightish and everything else feels good The manifold adapters look ok. When the injector is pushed into the adapter it will seal down the bottom where the chamfer is

I'm guessing you have split the top half off? The bottom ones are best done with a 3/8 extension (cant remember best length) and a swivel to get the right angle. Thats how I remember doing it anyway. Wobble extension might do it, otherwise just your normal 3/8 swivel (uni joint looking one) will do the job

I must be going crazy, Could have sworn when I was looking at driveshafts when I snapped mine the GTR ones were 3x2 but a quick search now it seems that they are 6x1. Going senile at age 25 it seems..... :S haha When I snapped mine I figured it was from excessive axle tramp (the initial fracture) and a hard launch one day finished it off. It was a very similar failure to yours. This was on 195rwkw with 19" wheels and 265 wide rear tyres. I now have near 300rwkw and 18" wheels with 265 tyres and Havent had a driveshaft problem since the first one. Mind you I dont go dropping my clutch and doing skids

Yeah I grabbed an NA shaft thinking it would work because the CV's had the same bolt pattern but they are thinner. GTR ones are thicker but have the 2x3 bolt pattern. Something along those lines anyway

Did the shaft snap or one of the CV's fail?

I did mean 36, not sure what happened there. And yes seems you are right about the relay, if you bridge the pressure switch and the clutch kicks in, then the relay must be fine and thinking about it a bit more it almost points to a simple answer - that your pressure switch is wrecked. You were testing the pressure switch on the reciever drier when you bridged it to get it to work yeah? If so the part number is: 92137-17U00, my info says $41 from Japan

I think Pin 9 should be grounded through the ECU I believe and Pin 46 goes to the cabin air temp sensor. The A/C relay is Fed power from fuse #16, goes through the pressure switched and earthed through the ECU by the looks of it (this is what Pin 9 is doing) on the signal side The switched side of the relay is Fed from the same power source as the signal side and engages the compressor clutch Maybe worth swapping the relay to rule it out. Check that you have a circuit between pin 9 and chassis earth when the A/C is switched on, will probably have to back-probe the plug to do this (with it still plugged in) It looks like the signal from the Climate control unit to the ECU to activate the compressor clutch is Pin 36 on the Engine ECU and Pin 27 on the Climate control unit (in the smaller plug). This should be the wire next to the only empty space on that connector Thats about the circuit. Hopefully that helps

I have dog photo Not sure what quality it will be. Was uploaded off my phone

Yellow jacket make ignitors now. Not sure if they are good or bad however

You won't learn a great deal about fuel pressure at idle as far as I'm concerned. It needs to be on a dyno with a bit of boost behind it to see if it is stable when fuel is actually going into the engine. the Engine isn't consuming much fuel at idle so fuel pressure might jump a little. Although the fact that the fuel pump changes note isn't a good sign. If it says its a $29 pump, change it right now. No fuel pump worth $29 has ever given good results. Best to just change it to something good right now. Someone else with a bit more experience may shed some more light, but I think fuel pump needs to be upgraded to something better regardless

This....... I'm sorry but there is a whole dedicated section for Clutches, Gearboxes and so forth. Please post/ask in the right section

Did you end up getting it? Somehow slipped under the radar for me, saw it today while I was out, looks a bit like Need for Speed was in the Pro-Street etc days, which honestly wouldnt bother me. I quite liked modding the cars and driving around in open world. It was fairly arcadey yes, but still plenty of fun.

I had my wing blade and end caps wrapped a while ago, the only thing I didn't like was the Matte look. Might be a case of each to their own, but I wonder if you sprayed gloss over the top (maybe even some clear Vinyl) if it would get that nice wet carbon look. Looks pretty good for an Amateur job, wouldn't be upset running that at all

Opposite direction to flow is back towards the cylinder head. I know my setup could be better but it is what it is and I havent had any boost issues

Mine is mounted off the exhaust housing. It probably could be better angled but I didnt really have the room. All good, seems to work fine: