89CAL

Because it says HPI and has a thermostat.

This ^ Doing it at home seems cheap at the time but its really not that costly to take it to a shop and get it done properly. Peace of mind, I still think, is the best thing to have with an engine that has been touched at some point

Couldnt hurt but may not be necessary. If you get what I mean

Yes on the water temp sensor The oil cooler is what the filter screws onto. Plug behind this is what your after - 1/8 plug. Most sensors are 1/8npt

Sounds like somebody has messed around with it seen as it has HID kits installed. Not a factory setting/option as far as im aware. You will probably just have to get a metter and check where the park light power wire is going back to. May have been joined to a switched power wire somewhere

The oil pressure gauge, im assuming they run the stock sensor off the oil cooler (stock) plate like the r33. If so there is a plug in the intake side just behind the cooler/filter plate that you can use. The water temp sensor, AFAIK people usually just buy the little adapter that goes in the middle of the top radiator hose. I dont like them but it will work fine. Search on the Just Jap website for water temp sensor adapter or something. They should sell them just to give you an idea of what your looking for

The radiator top tank is plastic remember. I was advided against repairing it when mine cracked. Especially if you are happy to just to get a cheaper than Jap brand radiator. Sounds like it will be fine for what you need. If you want to spend some money than the Greddy radiator is great. Fits perfectly and shroud fits on nicely Really up to you but

Buy a new one. Fix it now and it might just break in another spot later. Get a new alloy radiator now and less likely to have problems in the future. I bought a Greddy radiator when mine split. Best thing I think I could have done

Ford idle control valve? Is this on the throttle body? I thought it would have just been a matter of blocking/disabling this and using the standard RB26 IACV. Can you give any more details or provide photos?

Genuine number is 92130-05U00 Depending on the specs of your car, but I'm guessing R32 with RB20DET. Part number should be right $83.59 out of Japan. Local nissan dealer may have one I'd be very suprised though if your local auto electrical warehouse couldnt match it if you took the old one in (assuming you have it)

Hmmmm it would be odd to be an oil feed issue, but not impossible. From memory, the oil goes through the front cam cap on the intake cam side? Maybe rip the cam cap off and have a look. I'm not 100% on this but for some reason seem to recal something went on in the front cam cap

Is the point of the game to just kill everything that moves?

Amayama doesnt seem to be working for me at the moment but. Orders arent completing for some reason

Have you pulled a cam cap or two to check the cam?

Is it installed right? (VCT gear, washer, bolt, spring, cover) Is the whirring coming from the belt or the gear (check with front gear cover off) Just provide as much detail as possible to help us to help you

Look at the back. I told you in the first reply. They are very straight forward to pull apart

They are on top of the block. Head off job

Normal service history means what exactly? There are check valves in the oil feeds/restrictors if they are factory which stop oil from draining back if I remember correctly If it were me I would start by pulling the cam covers off and having a proper look. Probably also worth pulling some cam caps to make sure that the oil starvation hasnt caused major issues (pull them off one at a time or pull them off evenly) There is no real way to diagnose it without starting to pull it apart. There is still oil pressure which is a positive signt that the bottom end is likely still getting oil. It also points to a problem in the head or where the head gets its oil feed from the block which is through the restrictors and up through the studs holes

The cover comes off with 2 bolts from memory then the light assembly comes off with another two. Pretty straight forward if you look at the back of it..... Then I'm not sure if you want to take the lense apart or just try and wash it without the bulb etc in it. Some rag and a screwdriver along with either car wash or maybe contact cleaner might fix it up easily. Otherwise its probably an oven job to sperate the lense. Not sure on how to do it to be honest

How do you know its not your valves or anything else

No the season pass is for all the DLC etc. Becomming a PS plus member was mandatory with COD Ghosts, not worth it at all but didn't know that at the time. I think you get a month free when you first join PS plus not sure, but if you dont NEED it for COD then thats great. I already have it and it doesnt bother me so eh

Im not real concerned. There are some perks with ps plus, but if you break it up its just over a dollar a week

New COD is a big improvement over the old one. Was a bit worried they were going to ruin it with all this boost-jumping around but its all been put together quite well. Only got to play for about an hour the other day but I really like it

Have you ever driven along in 3rd at say 50kmh and then taken your foot off the accel pedal and left it in 3rd? Same principle, if its on a steep hill it will start to roll and there is nothing your engine can do about that. Originally sounded like it was just a slight grade on a driveway but now sounds like its super steep so not suprised

Is it blowing the dipstick out under boost?