89CAL

Look in the Vipec tuning software help file! I just told you this It tells you AUX 1 = AC clutch And so on. So seen as you don't need the stock o2 sensor you use the signal for it to hook your wideband analog voltage into The boost solenoid is the same. The R33's have an electronic boost control valve standard to go from 5 psi to 7 psi at whatever RPM. So use those 2 wires into your MAC valve. Doesnt matter which way around the wires are as the MAC valve is not polarity sensitive. Pretty much everything I said in the last post I have the XS connector but it's only hooked up to my external MAP sensor, a switch in the cab and intake air temp sensor.

Sorry I thought you were confused what to do after clay barring. After re - reading your post it makes a bit more sense that you were more questioning if anyone is really going all out lol. I haven't gone that far after clay barring before, usually just a good wash afterwards but I'm looking into something better to use post clay barring at the moment

Buff, Polish, Wax Waxing must be done after clay barring, Polishing/Buffing will get rid of any swirl marks etc first if you want to do this, but then wax must be applied

I'm not sure how you do a reset on those? The stock ECU can be done by unplugging the battery and turning on some electrics to drain any residual power, then leave it for a while then hook the battery up and it will figure everything out again. Can't say this will work with the Nistune, or if you will lose your tune etc. I don't know enough about them. But here is a link to the Nistune manual that might have some answers : Nistune Manual

What ECU?

Not much help, but have you tried holden? I'm not sure if they would sell something like that still but might be worth a try I grabbed mine off an old VL RB30 engine at the wreckers.

If you can be bothered I would get them. If you want an easier install then the others still work fine. But I feel like pressed in bushes will always be better then bushes that are compressed to get a tight fit

I think the suggestion was more to clean it so it's spotless with soap, water, brake clean etc till its spotless then drive it till its hot and then check again

The manual I have definetly calls for the sealant. The nissan sealant is pretty much threebond from what I have seen. The orange threebond is the best but grey is fine as well. Can't remember what number/name they are though

Well if that doesn't help you I don't know what will..... I've never heard of them? Who sells them?

AUX X is just referring to any auxilary output (AUX 1, AUX 2, etc) In the help file it tells you what each wire is in terms of inputs and outputs

The boost solenoid can be hooked into the standard wiring for the boost solenoid. It's not polarity sensitive so can be hooked up either way. The wideband can be hooked into the standard signal wire for the stock narrowband sensor. I hooked mine up at the ECU plug. If you download the Vipec tuning software (VTS I think it's called) and go into the help section there is quite a bit of wiring information.

This is what I was thinking but as I don't have much GTR experience I didn't want to suggest it just in case

I used to use motul 8100. I use Penrith synthetic (cant remember the proper name) now. I wouldn't hesitate to suggest the motul 8100 or even 4100. Nowhere stocks it where I live anymore so that's one of the reasons I don't use it now

super pro ones look good if you are willing to press/knock the bush back in (as it looks press fit) the others are easier. I'd go whiteline personally. I rate their stuff very highly. Not to say the Nolethane stuff isnt any good though. After all I do run those bushes in my rear diff mounts. I have some diff noise at 60km/h and for some reason when it rains it gets a bit clicky/clunky (noise goes away once it drys out)

My rear diff bushes are nolethane brand I think. They were the only ones I could find at the time. I think white line do them now

Ahh yeah. Didnt think of that. Photo and description had me sold someone had been slack when installing a front mount.

My front ones came out easily and I got the rears out by cutting them with an air hacksaw then knocking them out. Is cut through the rubber and just enough of the steel to split it in 2 halves without damaging the subframe I just let the diff hang down. Didnt even remove it fully so I didn't have to take the exhaust off

Well I dunno, get a long high tensile bolt and try it then? Probably cost $20 max at a local bolt shop for 1 bolt, 1 nut, 3 or so washers It was just an idea, save going and spending $100 on a puller kit to pull out a few bushes

The signal line for the wastegate should come from close to the turbo. If the car has had a Front mount kit fitted, then the fitting for the boost line was probably lost (as it comes out of one of the stock cooler pipes from memory) and one has been run from the intake manifold. If it is stock turbo then just take the 90 degree elbow off and drill + tap a thread in to accept a screw in nipple. 1/8npt is probably the size. You can buy a tap in this size for less then $20 easily. Just get the nipple first then check the size From what I can see (sorry its not the best photo for working out what you are pointing at) it looks like one of the hard lines for the carbon canister has been tapped into

Cheaper to just buy a bit of threaded bar, some nuts and washers to suit and just use a socket that is the right size to fit on the outside of the Bush without hitting the frame etc

Haha well can't complain at that price. Bit unsure how they stuffed up? Or was it just a labelling error that you called them on etc?

Is the CAS hot? they make strange noises when the bearings go in them as well. Is it more noticeable on the exhaust side? Cant rule out exhaust leak. Remove oil cap and have a listen

You mean your compressor is siezed solid? The best (and by best I mean cheapest) place to get a compressor from would be a wrecker. Alternatively you could pull yours off and take it to someone who specialises in air conditioner components/auto electrics etc, they may be able to match it. Keep in mind that if they have to get one specifically for your car then be prepared to pay over $1000. Where are you located? someone might know of a local shop that can help you out If it were me I'd go to the wreckers, find one that spins nice, make sure its all still plugged in or capped and buy that one. There's no guarantee it will work is the only problem with that situation. All you can do is look for one that looks like it was working before the car was written off/wrecked - as in everything is still in the car and connected

Have to agree. It sounds crazy to do 2 engine swaps in a car. Have you thought about updating to an R33 or R34? I know usually its personal choice and you may be completely sold on R32's, but R33's and R34's are much newer and will most likely have less little faults and be slightly nicer to drive. Just an idea. May not be a sensible/desireable option, but just throwing it out there