89CAL

There is supposed to be a solid metal plug in there as far as I know. not really sure what its for, never took mine out when I messed around with it.

Atmo BOV? There is a cold start valve. Have a bit of a search around for that and IAC/AAC valve

Take it back to them and get them to fix the tune then? If your not happy and it has a running issue then they should fix it

you need 28505 04U60

Yeah can only guess. I havent played in a while. I just remember there was talk of the August update (I think) including Hesits but it never did eh, been playing 'The Last of Us' when I finish that I might go back to GTA online

Atmo BOV's cause so many more problems than they are worth on an AFM equipped car. You can fiddle with the atmo BOV, get a retune to make it work (If you have an aftermarket ECU, otherwise factor in money to buy that) then it still wont run quite as nice as a PB BOV, then get a fine for having a venting BOV alternatively, use stock BOV, buy aftermarket PB BOV, don't need retune, drives as stock If your buying an ATMO BOV for the sound then you can still get that from an aftermarket plumback. This is why I say they are not worth the trouble. You are right, they can work. But why would you bother?

OP has disappeared

OP, post up a pic of the inside of the AFM if you want some opinions. The top of the box part is just glued on, bit of mucking around with a knife etc to get it off but not so hard. Should be able to see the problem if it needs a joint or 2 resoldered

Re-name thread to 'Drag racing essentials' ? So many important things to remember On a serious note, if you wanted to go the the drags, or even just use some cheap rims as burnout rims, There are plenty of cheap ass ford rims (go to a wrecker) in 16" that will work fine. I don't know about steelies, I've tried some ford steeleis on my R33 that I got for free and they wouldnt fit over the brakes so assume the same for R32

If you are going to suggest making the BOV to its hardest setting to stop the problem, then you may as well not run a BOV really. Put the stock BOV back on or run an aftermarket plumb back BOV

Did you bleed the master then the slave? I think if you still have the standard loop line (which I think is used to cool the oil for some crazy reason) down at the slave then there is a block there with a bleed nipple also At that stage it shouldnt matter but I would still bleed along the system just to be sure. Master ----> Line -----> Slave I could be wrong about that loop line or you may not have it fitted, but have a look anyway

Email Kudos Andrew will tell you, his customer service is great Or PM him on here

they are a powerball I think, Autobarn have a kit I'm pretty sure I saw the other day

If you didn't say it, I was going to have to.....

Yeah but it lists it as being compatible up to July instead of June

More than likely. How about this one? Link

Or on your Vin plate it should have production date

What does it show they month of production for your car is? Wouldn't that tell you which one to get? Jan to June gets one. June onwards gets the other I'm sure FAST lists the production date

I want heists to be a real thing already

I think Dan (elite racing) had some health or personal problems and hasn't been on here due to this. Might explain why he stopped responding. I think it was Dan

I need to learn to read lol......

Who services a car without checking the oil level? Confirmed. You don't live up to my high RB servicing standards

This You can't blame me for being skeptical.

I don't think it is much of an issue running wasted spark. Not on mildly modded cars. Any good tune will be more powerful than stock tune/ecu. They are conservative to prolong engine life

Yeah wideband is not necessary but CLL certainly improves economy a touch. As said the tune should get you decent economy on its own but if it was only tuned on a dyno then they may not have bothered doing cruise AFR'S. I was going to say in my first post that the power seemed low for a GTR....... If it were me I'd go somewhere else