89CAL

Atmo BOV? If so then that's your problem If not as above.

What did you measure with? Verniers are really the only thing I'd use for an accurate measurement

Its better than a rebuild If you don't want a bigger turbo, just buy a second hand one in good condition

No, everything is held inside the solenoid. I'd suggest getting new o-rings for the solenoid you are putting in

Yeah if your careful getting it out, the thread should be ok. If not a tap to fix it will probably be $10 at the most

If you have a hand controller then leave the timing map as it is on the base tune (as above) monitor knock and use the inj/ign screen to take a few degrees out if you get some knock. Add a little bit of fuel as well. Don't drive like a dickhead, keep it off boost and it should be fine. If you don't know what your doing and don't feel safe driving it like this then don't do it. There's no harm in ringing your tuner and asking him for advice as well

Well more to the point, whos to say they didn't go and grab the first radiator cap they could find OR for some reason your radiator is different. I'm not saying I'm right but these things do happen Go to supercheap and have a look at the ones they stock, compare and buy one that seems better. Caps are different, they should have one that will work. And make sure its a 1.1bar cap because .88 seems low for some reason. I cant remember what my stock cap was but think it was about 1 bar.

Does it feel tight when you do the cap up? As in do you have to press it down to get it to go in. For some reason something doesn't look right but I'm not around my car to have a look to compare. Was the cap definetly for a skyline?

Yeah the cap and the sealing surface are the only thing that controls flow between the radiator and overflow bottle. Nothing else will cause coolant to pass between the two. Post up some photos of both the radiator sealing surface and the cap so we can help a bit more

I believe you are over thinking the whole thing. I would use it unless the picture doesn't show some horrible defect. It looks pretty standard like marks from the machines used to roll or cut the thread

I'm not sure was just going off the wiring diagram I have. It had '#56' next to the power source for the light and said relay box. About all the help I can give you at the moment sorry

1.21 jigawatts at that speed

Remember that the stud/nut are clamping the stationary part of the bearing My comment about the nut not using that part of the thread was more about - your not going to make the thread any worse, then say if you ran a nut over it and damaged either the thread on the nut or stud. I'm fully aware of how forces are applied on bolts/studs I was only saying, I can't see a major fault with the thread from the photo, maybe its the way the flash has gone off but it doesnt look that bad at all to me. And there is always chances of minor defects in a manufacturing process. And for the sake of a $2 part....... As for your reading material, don't assume people are clueless when you dont know what they do for a living.

the illumination light is fed from fuse 56 in the relay box under the bonnet Thats about all the info I can give

I can modify stuff Can you point me in the right direction for aftermarket ones at all?

Mine used too. But I think gts struts are different part number to GTR ones so was probably never meant to hold up the GTR spoiler

Group buy time lol

Sick_R31: I really need some new shocks for my R33 to hold the GTR wing and boot up. Do these aftermarket shocks come with the brackets? I've looked into the genuine ones but they are about $100 or so each Let me know if you can help

Garmin do a GPS HUD that I was looking at a while ago (because I could get it cheap). Not sure if its what your after but it would only require power (probably has an inbuilt battery anyway if you didnt want to got that far even) In the photo it shows speed/speed limit so its not the main focus when its navigating. I'm not real sure if you can get it to come up with speed when you arent navigating as the main item, but I think its pretty cool Garmin HUD

Where did you get the 400rwkw number from? Is it a track car? because if its mainly street driven, you'd be better off running a little less power to make it more driveable The D-Jetro makes it easier to setup intake pipes, run no/atmo bov etc. But as GTSBoy has said, the MAP sensor calculates airflow, where as a MAF actually measures airflow. I'd suggest looking into a Link or Vipec. They will end up costing more then the Power FC but offer far more features and options for tuning. Keep in mind that this will mean you will have to change to MAP sensor (although not that bad, they have an inbuilt MAP sensor to get you started) and its suggested that you install an air temp sensor as well, which means you will need to fit it into the intake manifold or a cooler pipe near the throttle body. These arent major issues but worth noting. There will also be a small amount of wiring involved, but nothing to complicated EDIT: The adaptronic as mentioned above I have heard some good things about, but having never used one I can't give any more advice then that

Oh I like this game ummmmmmm It will make: 200hp at 2,000rpm 600hp at 25,000rpm exactly those numbers I know these things The engine is telling me these things

We can't match the wires up by colour we arent there. Your just going to have to get the multimeter out and start tracing wires Sounds like you have wired the park lights and/or wipers possibly to an ECU power supply. Not real sure but something is definently hooked up wrong

Haha, accidental pun is great

Well, It's going to take up a bit of space in here but anyway: I re-did the thermal compound for the second time the other day (with better quality stuff this time) and put it all back together. Started the PS3 up, all good. Downloaded some DLC, all good this took about an hour or so? Then I shut the PS3 down and went out for dinner. Came back, fired it up, played F1 2013 for a little bit with the controller just mucking around, no problems. Played a bit of GTA 5 for a while, no problems. Paused the game walked off, the thing shut down, blinking red light. It's the same now as it was before. I started the thing up the other day to see if it would let me play F1 2013 for long enough with my wheel, Got just past the main menu to start a race, shutdown, flashing red light. Tried again, got sorta into the race then shut down. But its weird, sometimes I go to play COD Black ops 2 (mine goes straight to multiplayer menu), and when it connects to online servers the thing shuts down. But if I can get past this, it seems I can happily play that online for as long as I want. I had about 5 games the other night without an issue. then the next day it will do the same thing (turn itself off and flash red light) thought it might have been a wireless issue, but plugged the thing in and still did it. It will sit at the XMB menu forever without an issue (AFAIK anyway) its only when I start trying to play games it has a problem I think it might be hard drive, but I'm pretty slack to buy another hard drive and then have it not be the problem

Can't believe there was a thread made for this....... You dont use the last thread There is only about 20ish Nm of torque on the nut I've seen worse, People re-use these without problems Honestly. If it is worrying you that much, Just buy another one, They arent expensive