89CAL

I'm still pissed my PS3 broke lol. I want to finish some games on PS3 now that I'm all out of stuff to do on PS4 till more games come out later this year. I'm puzzled by the problem I have with the PS3. Emailed sony about it but havent heard back yet

In theory, communisim works....... I dunno, I got alot of gear from Spool, and don't have any problems with the stuff. The rods look/are great and the rest of the stuff has been good. But I'd be more inclined to listen to pay attention to what the guys at Nitto are doing. With any luck spool have been doing the same research in the background, but I wouldnt want to be the guinea pig without any knowledge. If it were me, I would call or email Spool and see if they have done some R&D into the potential issues with boring the crank tunnel etc. It's a good idea, Kinda wish I could have done this on mine, but then again I had to get the crank tunnel machined on mine so maybe not such a bad thing they werent around lol

Howd they f**k your throttle body in a roadworthy? strange Replaced BOV? Not with an atmosphere venting one?

I'm not real sure how you expect us to know what has been done to the engine internally? Only way to find out now is to strip it and seen as you haven't indicated that there are any problems I'd say you eons be keen on that Ask the person you bought it off, which is probably what you should have done in the first place. If I was buying a car and someone said they spent $15,000 on the engine, my first question would be "what's been done to it?"

I'm still unsure what you are trying to achieve with this, or is it just a case of 'doing it to see what happens/how it works?' in which case that is fine and I understand that completely If you are chasing a battery voltage problem, then remember that the battery is only feeding a few things in the rear of the car and the main supply to the relays etc in the front section of the car come from where the Altenator and battery cables join on the terminals in the relay box in the engine bay (On R33s) So basically if your altenator is happy that its putting out the right voltage up front, then the main electronics in the car will be getting the full altenator output. I don't have any voltage problems with the Link, the only time I have minor problems is first start up after I've been out at work for a week and the car has been sitting there the battery voltage is sometimes a bit lower then I would like for starting the car, but still does the job fine. Running the sense wire to the battery terminal at the rear is probably not too bad an idea, but this all depends on what your actual voltage drop is between the altenator B+ terminal and the battery positive terminal. If its <0.3V say, then I would probably be happy to live with it. If you are getting half a volt difference as you said you did last time, then maybe it would be worthwhile doing that. But this will put more strain on the Altenator (not excessive, just more) As for current output from the altenator, I'm struggling to remember what determines this. It will of course depend on required output (i.e if the battery is already near fully charged, its not going to output maximum current), rotor speed and size/quantity of windings. I cant exactly remember how it all comes together, but I think the voltage reg plays a small part in it as well, in that it limits the voltage output so must have an affect on the current output also. I vaguely remember any of the stuff I did on altenators at Tafe, and we did quite a bit on them (even playing with one on a test bench where you can really see how much load an altenator can put on a motor). Due to the industry I work in, there isn't alot we do with altenators. It either works or it doesnt, and then we change it out. So I dont ever think too much further into it then that. I have my ways to test it and thats about it

Plug 1 is either park lights or washer bottle perhaps Plug 2 looks like one that connects to the headlights or something near the relay box Plug 3 I think is an intermidiete connector near the relay box as well Plug 4 not 100% sure, looks familiar but cant quite pick it Plug 5 looks the same as plug 1, same wire colours so they are possibly both park lights or indicators Plug 6 Not sure, maybe AC Plug 7 is coolant temperature switch on bottom of radiator (should be drivers side) I'm not sure if I am anywhere near on the money, seen as its an R32 and a GTR, I could be completely wrong lol..... Just going off what some plugs are like on my 33

Did you paint an Earth or anything like that? Which parts did you paint/remove and paint?

It shouldnt idle at all with CAS unplugged :S How would it know when to fire injectors + Spark?

Safety First But that would be great, the M cars are some of the best in the world for a reason I guess

an NPC single might handle it, otherwise they do twin plates as well. Ring NPC performance clutches and they will be able to help you out and work out what clutch is best for you

But this isn't the case, Dan has exceeded everyones expectations, and he has done that by driving exceptionally. I understand the point of the question, but if Vettel was beating him, noone would have thought too much of it, chances are Dan would have been doing a 'good' job and can't be expected to slot into the championship team and immediatly start beating the champion I think this is what is earning him so much praise. He was never expected to do as well as he has, but he has done amazingly and kept himself grounded. He would have been 'good enough' but I'm really happy that he is doing much better than that. The race was quite exciting, kinda ruined for me by the fact that I heard the results before I got to watch it today, but still exciting enough none the less

Iseewatudidthere

In theory the Accusump works great, because it can compensate for intermittent oil pressure drops, but it all depends on the size you get and the length of time it has to take over from the oil pump

Yeah I think the Accusump are a great thing, I was looking at doing a pre-lube system in mine with an electric oil pump and then found the Accusump and thought that was a better thing. But the price scared me off a bit lol. I don't have any issues driving mine around the street though so not a big concern lol

Yeah I agree that your better off lunching an engine then being involved in a major crash and writing the car off. Have you considered an Accusump? I think these automaticly output oil when your oil pump fails and indicate that this has happened. I'm not 100% sure but think this was one of the features with these Would be a better solution IMO. Give you a chance to pull off the road and shut the engine down, admitedly not alot of time but still better than nothing

My point wasn't that it wouldn't work. It was as above, so much effort for what gain? I've never had an issue with my electrical system. ECU'S compensate for minor voltage variances, but as per my original point, if your electrical system is working properly and in good condition I don't see any need to Change it I'm not at all trying to shoot down new/different ideas, but I just don't think it's worth it. At least I can't see the point on my car

It'll be a minor wiring issue or an earth issue if it's intermittent I would say

2.1 volts x 6 cells is 12.6v remember that voltage is like pressure and current is like flow. You can't change one without changing the other. Electrical components will draw the current they want and need and this will have an affect on voltage. I'm not real sure that tricking the alternator is going to net you proper gains, because everything is relative. If its trying to charge the battery to a higher voltage then it will either be putting out more current then it normally would or putting out higher current for longer then normal. Perhaps I'm missing the point but for me, if your charge system is healthy (above 14v) then why mess with it? There's little to be gained from playing with the alternator in my opinion. You just want to see stable voltage and the right voltage

I meant I can get the part number for you tonight. I'm working for another 8 hours and then have a 2 hour drive home Amayama have a parts catalog if you go to their site. There are no pictures but if you are in the radiator section and there is a part with the description: 'switch' etc then that's probably the one

Apparently they aren't that great. Cant remember exactly what people didn't like about them but I'm sure someone has the answer There is nothing wrong with the stock fan anyway. It shifts plenty enough air when working properlu

I forget what the exact numbers are but the battery light comes on below 12.8v and above 15v from memory. This could explain why it's on. Have you checked actual voltage at the battery/positive terminal on the alternator? The power fc isn't always 100% right. Check that and see if it's got enough charge because 13v is too low

I can get it for you tonight or go on Amayama's website and look at their online parts catalog. Should be on the radiator page. The switch is on the lower drivers side of the radiator and turns the AUX fan on at a certain temp

Yes as above. The mark for the crank is on the oil pump housing, thats the mark you are using yes? (sounds like it but just making sure)

They are both next to each other on the front of the intake manifold. It's been a while since I've had a standard manifold but should be around the radiator hose fitting on the manifold anyway. There are 2 earths that I think are for these near the sensors as well. The earth lug on the back of the coil pack loom is pretty important (Mainly for your coilpacks) so maybe just double check its there and connected. Unless they are different on the series 2 engines? I'll have a look at my wiring diagram in a minute for you

Does the flicker happen with engine revs or something along those lines or is it flickering in that video without you touching anything (sorry no sound here) I think you'd have more serious problems then the temp gauge if you left the earth at the back of the coilpack brackets off but it might be a common earth. Check the earth's near the water temp sensors too. Should be bolted to the intake manifold near the sensors