89CAL

Just keep turning the CAS till it runs then check with a timing light. If you don't put bolts in the CAS then it will only take a minute or two to work out the right spot then as I said check with a timing light

If you have the engine apart anyway may as well through some arp studs at it. They aren't overly expensive and its good insurance It should handle 18psi but if I had it apart I'd probably do it anyway. Personal preference only

huting idle? Do you have an atmo venting bov? Otherwise you may have some sort of minor boost leak somewhere.

The timing marks on the crank and Cams only line up on every second turn because the cams are turning at half the speed of the engine. 4 stroke engine = 4 strokes per cycle. It's easier to do it with the radiator out, but obviously from this guide its not 100% necessary. I would just pull it out because it doesnt really take long and if your doing this sort of service it probably wouldnt hurt to replace coolant as well. I think if you want to use a puller (which I would recomend to ensure the balancer comes off nice) you would need to pull the radiator

Well....... it wouldnt be the idle screw on the ECU if it has one, which I dont think it should Thought that was more a thing on RB30's and maybe RB20's. I dont remember my stock ECU ever having an idle screw, but that was a while ago If your boosting over 7psi with stock ECU chances are its the famous R&R. The ECU assumes a problem because of the higher then normally expected airflow and it cuts the ECU in some cases (mine used to do this) In other cases it just adds a heap of fuel and timing and doesnt really cause higher boost to necessarily create significantly more power

looking at the wiring diagram you need it on an R33 as it feeds some relays after the charge light, but in an R32 not real sure

Quoting parts of posts is fun

I've only ever adjusted the screw on the IAC/AAC valve to change idle

Did you try blocking the PCV off yet

good thread this one

I feel like this was just to brag lol

I like how the boost gauge was always on zero. Such boost

The f**k

Lol Dan saying the Red Bull seems to have a bit more speed this weekend. Can only hope.

After a quick look at some aftermarket radiators it appears they are the same story as the R33, interchangeable between GTS-t and GTR. Nengun lists the same part number for the Blitz radiator in both

I was having a similar problem and my switch was fine so it's really anyone's guess what the problem is

2 bolts hold the starter on. Should be opposite each other

I don't think so. When I got my new radiator for my r33 was talking about GTR rads in gts-t's and I'm pretty sure he said he has tried it in an r33 and it didn't work. He wanted me to check if a GTR rad would fit in mine because of this but the r33 ones are the same I've never done it so dont take my word as 100% truth, but I trust what he says

FPR is about keeping pressure in the rail not flow. Choosing the right injectors means you should never have to change the fuel reg unless as stated you have an aftermarket rail and the stock one won't fit

n1 bonnet slots?

EDIT: Thread deserves this one:

I've had the wiring diagram out There is a plug at the tail-lights (obviously), a plug drivers side top front of boot (this may be out of sight inside the guard, I'm not real sure), the plug at the front which I mentioned before and then the plug at the switch on the gearbox I cant find what fuse it is tee-ed off, but there are a fair few things powered off the same circuit like the de-fogger relay (rear window) so if thats working I dare say the power source is O.K. Basically just need to test the switch, or bridge out the plug to eliminate the switch completely. Get the lights working without the switch and then you can see if the switch works. If you have power at the switch harness, then the earth is at the tail lights. If you have all the other lights + number plate lights then Earth is most likely not your problem, the Earth is common to all of them.

Yeah thats why I'm probably not going to bother testing. Meter only shows a problem some of the time so no real point. I'll just keep running the new one and hopefully it goes alright. $50 fix can't really complain. Have another solenoid for the rack lined up anyway so may chuck that in anyway or keep it as a spare Thanks to the guys who pointed towards capacitors and it being an actual HICAS ECU problem. I would have messed around with the other end of things if not for that so thanks for saving me the trouble

This is true. OP Have you disconnected the Gearbox switch and bridged out the 2 pins in the plug (harness side) to see if that works?

So I ended up getting a second hand HICAS ECU and slotting it in. SO far its been O.K, but I've only done a little bit of testing yesterday but didn't play up once. Opened my old one up and all the capacitors look fine. None of them look burnt or have exploded so yeah bit strange. Was going to put a meter on them but can't be bothered if the new one has fixed it. Maybe one day I will look at the one that came out of my car and re-pairing it, but dont think I will bother really lol Will keep this updated as i go, but hopefully its all good now. I seem to have a series 2 HICAS ECU in the car now. was one part number higher then the one that came out, but so far no problems.