89CAL

Ah ok. I see lol

Haha sorry. It's on fffonts or something like that

Are you putting in the aus Vin number? It has the 6u900 I think at the front of mine. The Vin starts at ecr33 or hcr33 etc

Radiator cap Check it, clean it, replace it

Simple. Fix/Replace AFM first and then you can start diagnosing other problems And when Hadouken says Z32 = Tune, that also means getting an ECU/Piggyback to enable it to be tuned. You can tune a different AFM into stock computer

if you were to go to google, and search 'ms gothic japanese', and then hit enter, you might find the second link helpful It doesn't seem to do much to my fast pages but

You have to download the font, but I could only find it on the Microsoft site and it cost money so I couldnt be bothered. Unless someone has a link to a site where you can get the write font

Need electric supercharger........ make it 2

Jeze, it was just a number I picked out of the blue. Didn't excatly sit down and think about how much slower than the drivers I would be

I think its not so much they can't adapt, its just they haven't been able to do it as quick as guys coming from worse cars or categories that are used to the cars sliding around. The gaps are less than a Second, probably less than half a second really. If you or me jumped in the car we would probably be 3 seconds slower Without being in the situation there is no real perspective on how hard/long it takes to adapt to the new style cars. Back in the day there was alot less aero, so the cars I dare say would have been more predictable even though they were all over the place. With aero you have to remember that air going over the car can make the thing very unpredictable/touchy Also, I don't think there were any testing restrictions in the era you are talking about so the guys were able to bolt something on there car then go out and try it. At the moment, if the car is not right then you realistically only have half of Friday to try new things before starting race Sims and setup for qually etc

If its already in great condition why do you need to pull it apart and fix it? There not that complicated to pull apart and most things have been covered on here There is no English manual for the body/chassis that I'm aware of, but since i found a wiring diagram I haven't felt the need for a chassis manual

That makes no sense. Take a breath and have a think about what you are saying before writing it back. Also punctuation ( these things . . . . . . . . . . , , , , , , , , , , etc ) You can't expect help when what your saying makes no sense. I apologize if English is not your first language

already been said. you want at least 10psi per 1000rpm. on cold startup you will see alot more. I get up near 60psi I think Being a Tomei pump I'm not sure how they flow at idle, but if it were me I'd just follow the 10psi per 1000rpm

Part numbre for the bolts with studs out the top for the baffles is: 13058-5L700

No there isnt. Not any simple way that I'm aware of anyway.

Just get camber bushes if you are only chasing 1 degree or so. I have them and they are fine. Just take them somewhere that knows how to adjust them

My tuner uses the link one I think. Thinks it's great and really good for picking up knock long before you hear it with just your ears. He's used a couple before

Why don't you want to buy it online? Plenty of places to get it from online at resonable prices and can only take a day or so to get there I always deal with Kudos Motorsport and they are great, you can go to the Gold Coast to their shop if you really want but you should get stuff from there the next day if you order online I really dont know why this tread was necessary, seems like you could have googled this or looked at the business traders in the for sale section

In other news. Villeneuve must be stupid saying Red Bull have given up on Vettel and are now focusing on Dan If you've had a driver bring you 4 world titles, you don't abandon him when he has a rough start to the season http://www.planetf1.com/driver/3213/9359896/Vettel-should-go-to-Ferrari-Villeneuve

I think all engines have higher oil pressure then coolant pressure. Seen as coolant pressure is usually only maximum of 1bar The example I gave was coolant entering oil return ports so no oil pressure It is a bit irrelevant to a 25 seen as there are no oil returns in the intake manifold but there are more oil returns then feeds so it is still a possibility If it's losing coolant and oil it could well be head gasket but could also be other causes if the coolant and oil are leaking in different spots Very hard to diagnose over the Internet so just floating ideas around

Yeah well you might have a problem there then. What does the oil look like? Is it milky at all? Depending on where everything is being lost will make a difference to the symptoms. I just changed an inlet manifold gasket on a VS commodore ute (V6) because I've been losing coolant in it for ages and when I did the last service noticed milky oil around the filler cap. Pulled the manifold gaskets out and saw there was a problem with the seal around one of the water ports that was close to an oil port. Obviously a little coolant was bypassing into the oil Coolant still looked perfectly fine, oil not so much. I originally thought it might have been head gasket but so far looks like it was the manifold gasket. Havent driven enough to know for sure yet but I hope its fixed, bit of a crap job really. Looked easier then it was anyway

Flush the system and fill with distilled water for a few days, run the car as normal and if you've had no problems previously it shouldnt be an issue, just keep an eye on the temp. Just to make sure you have an issue before you start doing major repairs That's what I'd do anyway. Unless you know that the radiator had good coolant in it and had been well flush before the coolant was put in

that makes a bit more sense, but isn't at all how he described it. Hex bolts on crankshaft to rod bolts. Sounds nothing like grub screws.....

Theres a plug in the engine bay, just in front of the fuse/relay box. It joins the gearbox harness to the rest of the car. Mine was dirty and my reverse lights sometimes went funny then all of a sudden stopped

Wow an argument and someone else is wrong. Amazing You know it's ok to be wrong once in a while. Accept that things aren't always as black and white as they appear. Driving style is not something easily changed and considering Alonso has been at Ferrari for over 5 years now it's hardly surprising the car suits him more