89CAL

OP, sounds like its an inhex fitting. Something you would need a large alen key for? It may be a magnetic plug, I got magnetic plugs for my gearbox and diff and they are like this

+1 I was told 10psi per 1000rpm as well

Yeah I'm enjoying watch dogs alot, but in the back of my mind I'm thinking its tried very hard to be a bit like GTA5 in terms of longevity, but I don't think its going to quite make it there. Campaign is probably the best thing so far, and the gang hideout side missions.

Sorry yes, it was clockwise you had to turn the engine, I had backwards in my head for some reason. What is your reason for never turning an engine backwards?

I remember when I turned my O2 feedback control off and idle didn't change at all. I was under the impression that at idle (when the TPS indicates closed throttle) then the idle IGN and fuel maps are active and the o2 sensor is all but ignored I had some problems with my TPS not putting the car into idle control for some reason even though the voltages were fine. I pulled it off, messed around with it a bit checking it was operating fine then put it back and all of a sudden it worked again. Strange but something to think about. I ended up buying a new TPS and never seemed to have any issues with it, so maybe my old one, although it indicated it was alright, actually had a problem. Its a good idea (Although probably not practical for the OP if Power FC is tuned and running) when first installing a Power FC, to check all the sensors and switches are O.K and adjust the TPS to the correct position before performing the Data INIT. Problems like these are not a problem on newer ECU's. The Link I have now for example has TPS calibration in the PC Software, so if it ever seems like it has a problem, you can just recalibrate it so it knows were 0% and 100% are and its happy again. I'm still a supporter of the Power FC however, as for what most people need it is a pretty good simple replacement ECU. The Link is a much better ECU, but not everything on it is necessary for most

Not exactly. The procedure is once you get the timing belt on, you rotate the engine backwards to put tension on the belt (Think it reccomends turning it over 3 times backwards by hand) then get an allen key to fit in the tensioner just to hold it in that position while you do it up. I think thats right anyway. something along those lines anyway

My clutch is never done on a lathe, and I dont know anyone who does this with a lathe Forget the name of the machine mine is done with but you end up with what look like big swirls through it but I have never had a clutch problem. It's the proper machine for doing it

Did you say you have a second slave cylinder? Or does this mean you have replaced it? Check for a kinked line or something. If a lines kinked the oil wont return to the master/reservoir instantly and will cause momentary slip if you drop the clutch. Thats about the only thing I can reccomend unless you literealy meant you have 2 slave cylinders, which I'm not quite sure how you would do on an R33 box as there is only provision for one cylinder

The heat has probably just altered the material on the clutch plate a bit so it doesnt grip quite as well. No big deal seen as you know where to go from here. Consider an NPC clutch and flywheel as they are both great products. The clutch you have now looks like its only a 9.5", you can go NPC 10" which means it will handle the power and still be relatively soft pedal feel.

The crank gear mark should line up with the mark on the oil pump. Timing marks on the cam gears lined up on the back plate and then yes everything should be at top dead centre cyl 1

If the car is basically stock and you don't want to spend money on tuning, I'd just throw a standard ECU in it Then if you decide you want more power, can choose a good ECU and get a tune done

Looks like its been warm and slipping/shuddering to me Get it machined, new/rebuilt clutch, drive it properly. Should be fine

I'm liking Watch Dogs so far, haven't played too much yet but I got the game for $14 (used a gift card work gave me ) so can't complain even if the game is average But so far so good

Yeah you can pull the washers out of the seal and use them as spacers if you dont want to run the cover. Spacing the CAS out is important but

I'd say the altenator must be working or the thing wouldnt have any power to drive (seen as its completely dead after key off) I'd look at battery first but you can also check altenator as well If you dont already have one, go buy a cheap multimeter from Jaycar or Supercheap etc. Get the car running and check the Voltage with the car running. Check either by putting the meter probes on each of the battery terminals, or you can also put one on the positive out of the altenator and the other on a good ground in the engine bay. Between 14.0V and 14.5V means the altenator is working properly. Get a second person and keep the meter somewhere as above, checking voltage when the car is turned off. The BEST a battery can get when off is 12.6V, but usually anything around 12V is fine. If you have less than this, and judging by your description you may have alot less, you have a problem on the battery or cables. Check that the cables/terminals are clean and have a good earth and good connection on the positive end as well. If that all looks good then I'd say its battery. Another way to check the altenator as well is to check the R terminal. Best done with a test light, putting it to positive on one end and probing the R terminal should make the test light light up while the car is off. when the car is running, putting the clamp on ground and probing the R terminal should make the test light light up Should be plenty of info to help you out, and multimeters arent expensive, and can be very handy

lol sounds legit It's not high on my list of problems at the moment TBH, but maybe one day in the future it will get moved

usually the pedal not coming back up is the pivot ball broken. If the pedal is only half releasing then that will be your slipping issue, odd that it is only happening in 2nd but

Caps were a bit much but couldnt underline the bit in my post

IF YOU HAVE AN UPGRADED ECU

Ill look at my wear guide later if I think of it but looks like it has fractured over a longer period of time. How long was this crank in use in this form for? And what Is the previous history of this particular part of the crank? (Heating to remove gear, crank collars on off etc)

I dont understans. You started this thread but dont have a problem? If your car uses standard ECU then your fuel economy will be worse. No 2 ways about it. There is air being metered and then not going into the engine, but the engine still adds fuel expecting that air. If you have an upgraded ECU then it may have been tuned to iron the issue out

Yeah I got the same done to mine to clear the exhaust manifold

Perhaps it was fitted incorrectly. Too much heat in the crank or retaining bolts/screws not installed properly Just a random guess seen as it sounds like you had a crank collar installed and thats where it broke. Better photos of the fatigue point?

Yeah thats not purely hicas related. To many odd things happening at once. HICAS will not make the car stall. Sounds like a bad earth to me

Did you prime the system lots before turning on? If some of the fuel has drained out of the injectors then they sometimes take a bit to get started. Key on and off a fair few times is the easiest way to do it. Key on, let it prime, key off, repeat Also change your fuel filter in case the new pump has stirred up some crap thats got through the sock (not likely but id change the fuel filter anyway)