89CAL

quick question, I'm looking at adding an ethanol sensor to my Link G4 sometime before the end of the year. The wiring manual for the continental sensor shows a +14v output from the ECU to the sensor, but there is no such output of voltage from the ECU. I'm thinking this is just a power source from battery/ignition but obviously I don't want to fry the ECU so can anyone help me out. I feel like this is maybe a silly question but oh well lol

Double post

To me it looks a bit 50/50. But honestly Massa had plenty of room, Perez was entitled to have a look up the inside of Vettel. Both turned towards each other a bit but to me Massa turned in harder

It'll definitely be the atmo blow off valve you've got. Take that off then you will have no worries

RBR Nissan?

As per title, I'm in need of a HICAS ECU for a 2 door R33 GTS-T. The power steering side of mine has most likely given up so if anyone has one lying around or wrecking an r33 then let me know. Located in Mackay, QLD, but happy to pay postage. PM me Thanks

RBR Mercedes, Dan world champion. STR's are still Renault arent they? they are by far the 'fastest' Renault powered cars, but they didnt have the best run in Canada so maybe it was all down to a lower downforce setup

It depends what the warning is set out. You can set it to go off at whatever you like The map sensor is for the boost control kit but does work without it. If you bring boost up on the hand controller and its got lines instead of a figure then you don't have the map sensor. I dont think you do but had to ask. I'm not even sure if it flashes the engine light anyway.

You don't have the boost control kit or even just the map sensor installed do you?

Yeah that will be good for me. I only use my ps3 for gta 5 and formula 1 atm. So hopefully a new formula 1 game comes out this year and I can stop struggling with my dying ps3 lol

Double sided tape. Job done lol

Yeah it is rather depressing that mercedes had such a disadvantage for near half the race and Dan still only just beat them. Albeit Perez held them up an awful lot, its still quite impressive how fast that mercedes must be around those corners as well as the straights (when the power unit is working)

Yeah that would be the plan. Turboedsloth: Do you know what sort of capacitors, and how mant farad they were etc. Also how many I would need in a worse case scenario? chances are I'll order 10 or so anyway to make it worthwhile but I'd like to order now so that they will be waiting for me when I get home next wednesday

If its set up right the gates belt isnt noisey. I have one and its fine. I had a Dayco belt on my old engine which was good as well Nothing wrong with Stock or the 2 i have listed

they look like -10 fittings. But can't say for sure just from the photo.

The boot is the same on all R33's I have a genuine GTR spoiler on a Series 1 GTS-t If that helps anyway. Might have to drill new holes though

I have no memory of the first post about the capicitors, even though I replied to it lol. I'll pull my ECU apart next week and have a look if I have the same issue. Might be alright if I just have to replace some capacitors. Just have to find somewhere to buy them. I basically only have Jaycar locally to buy these sort of things from.

It probably doesnt change the effort at all, but beacuse less effort is needed when going fast it will feel alot lighter. Mine is the same, it feels normal at higher speed but heavy at low speed because The solenoid is doing nothing mine is related to time with the key off AFAIK. 10 mins or so key off and then it wont work when its turned back on, leave it for half an hour or more and its fine. I Don't think its related to the solenoid because if its working, I can sit there for ages and it doesnt die, I can drive for ages and it doesnt die. It just wont work again when I key off for a little bit then back on. I'm thinking about putting a relay in the battery power supply to the HICAS CU to make it reset everytime the ignition is turned on. Not sure if its going to work but worth a try.

Its hard to say because the in car camera cut out, but it looked a bit like Massa turned into him a bit at the last minute. There was plenty of room, and it was rather dumb to get that close when such a good result was up for grabs. Can honestly say for the first time in a while I was on the edge of my seat for the last 10 laps or so. So happy for Dan, was a great drive. Edge of your seat stuff I wonder if this is the beginning of the end for Mercedes? Have they pushed the engines too far early in the year? I doubt it, will probably be a minor problem that they will fix straight away, but would be good if they could have issues to open up the championship a bit again, few more different winners would make it a bit more exciting.

S15's are 6 speed, is 5th the 1:1 ratio gear? This might be why its done in 5th

What happened to using zip ties for eveeything

Nothing wrong with a standard rebuild at those power levels, I'd add ARP main bolts as well as having the head bolts for a bit more piece of mind. They aren't that expensive anyway. As long as the assembly is done right I'd be happy to run it. Especially seen as its quite a bit cheaper than a full forged rebuild. If you can afford the forged engine, then of course its going to be tougher, but probably not necessary

I wouldnt use it....... I think (and I could be wrong) that my flywheel gets done on the same maching that surfaces the deck of the block. But I've never seen it actually done so not 100% all good anyway

ahhh 2nd hand. Seems obvious when I think about it now lol........

I run 265's on the back on 9" rim. I'd like to give a comparison to other size tyres but the last time i ran different size tyres they were 32 GTR tires, about 225 wide and rather old. Also car was stock and I ditched them about 4 months after buying the car If you want to wait till you wear the current tyres out, fair enough. But go the 265's if you wont run into any problems with rubbing. I think mine are 265/35's but cant say 100% and too lazt to walk 4m to the car