89CAL

10-12Nm or something like that I think?

This sounds really odd............. You can't be missing the rod bolts and be complaining about oil pressure. You'd have much more to complain about....... ALL hex bolts sounds impossible. The thing would have fallen apart during installation when turning the engine over. Something in the description must be off, but I can't work out what else it could be.

It's pretty funny though, have all these girls lined up clapping just to have 3 drivers and a team member walk straight past. I don't get it, but I'm sure not complaining lol

I think thats not really true. The Ferrari looks pretty horrible at times. Alonso struggles with it sometime and Kimi is probably in the same boat as Vettel. Vettel is not all of a sudden just a crap driver. He is struggling a bit in the car, where as Dan is doing much better. I think Kimi's intentions at Ferrari were to be fighting at the front, Lotus was never going to have a good car this year. But its not turning out right because I think the car (and the engine to a degree) arent as strong as some people thought, including Ferrari themselves. Last year when Kimi won the Aus GP, I watched every driver going around turns 3 and 4 and pretty much every one of them was sliding the car around. Kimi was unbelievebly good around those 2 corners, was so planted and nice around the corner. This year the thing was sliding all over the place. I think its just 50% the car (new regulations alot to do with that) and 50% not suiting his driving style I am a pretty big fan of his though lol. But still I don't think he is the kinda guy that would be in Formula 1, JUST to be there

Yeah mine is around 10% out for whatever reason. Tacho is out a touch too. Probably dodgy cluster lol

Well the Williams are harder on types so they probably tried to stretch it out to improve their later pace/grip Funny how there was no replay of what actually happened when Kyvyat's (how on earth do you spell it) suspension let go Kimi having a very boring year in the Ferrari so far. In the back of my mind I thought this might happen but really hoped it wouldn't

Yeah that was fairly shit. "And now we see the drivers heading in for their first pitstops, I wonder if........." Chanel 10 logic: "I think its a good time to grab our first commercial break" *conversation may not be 100% accurate. I know how much people like accuracy That race had the potential to be great, then It was rather boring. Hope these Mercedes start breaking soon. A few issues are starting to appear. Imagine if they lost the Drivers championship now. How would you feel being Rosberg/Hamilton to have an unbeatable car for half the year and still lose

Didn't Vettel come from 16th to a podium/win last year sometime? It was a superior car but

My gates belt is fine. And have to agree I wouldnt try and do it without pulling the covers off properly. I tried to do something with the bottom cover after I'd put my balancer on and it just wouldnt happen. Luckily for me it was only something minor and cosmetic so I just got over it, but yeah its not really possible to pull it off on an engine stand let alone in the car.

Or craved coatings should be able to sort it out as well. They do good work

So 15amp fuse (Fuse #41)? It's not something silly like someone has put the wrong fuse in there? That fuse is purely for the fuel pump relay by the look of it. Can you confirm that the fuel pump works? Also have you bypassed the FPCM so it just goes straight in the pump and then to ground? Really it can only be the relay or the fuel pump once you ground the other side of the pump (ignoring the FPCM)

Is that coolant return? Is it supposed to go in before thermostat or after? I cant remember This is mine, but its a bit extravagant for your every day setup. The HKS kit I had before had a braided line that ran around the back with all the fittings to join to the rubber hose under the manifold:

The 2 sensors, and the wiring as per Link G4 manual

IGN power to the top of the coil on the realy, then earthed through Pin 18 on the ECU So if you don't have power on the relay coil siide with ignition on, then you have a power problem, If you have power then quite possibly an ECU issue Depending on how you have done the Direct feed to the pump, it may still be utilizing the the FPCM, in which case you can get rid of it completely but just running the Battery power to one side and the other straight to ground. There is no need to keep the FPCM Should be able to work it out with that diagram anyway

No worries. Some people just don't know how to use multimeters. That's the only reason I asked I'll have another look at the diagram later and see if it can/does get a back feed from anywhere You could try unplugging the wiper module from your engine bay and do the test again (it's rear engine bay passenger side) as this tees off the washer circuit to bring the wiper on. Seen as the issue is on both front and rear I'm not sure if this will make a difference or not

Yeah. Leave the intake side of the engine. Stock is fine

It wouldnt hurt to invest in a cooler. One with a thermostat built in would be best They are different to the GTR pumps And AFAIK they don't fail any more then the other RB oil pumps?

Better response, Air is less turbulent entering the ports

As above. ITB's are better

How are you checking voltage? Seems odd to have positive on both sides then a negative when the switch is activated There should be power on one side always, then activating the switch puts it to ground 20amp fuse for the front (fuse #24) and 10amp fuse for the rear (fuse #1), keep in mind this is for the whole system, so wiper arms as well. Other then that the washer circuit itself is pretty straight forward, ACC power in from the fuse, through the washer motor then grounded through the Wiper switch/stalk

Doesnt the 26 Greddy manifold retain the ITB's?

Yeah I figured it cant hurt. I probably don't NEED the extra speed but always handy to have more

Its not real practical to drive around on 3500+rpm on the street lol

Compressor housings are easy to pull off.It is as simple as it looks. Undo the bolts on the back and carefully pull it off without hitting blades etc. I don't really understand why you'd be cleaning up the engine bay and be focusing so much on the comp housing. In my mind the most I'd want to do is give it a hit with some heatproof paint. Silver, black, whatever colour suits Smooth chrome housings look O.K on the right car, but usually these are engine bays that have many many dollars spent on them

That sounds a bit like a track car. Maybe not in the traditional sense, but still no street car Just didn't want OP to get keen on the same pump as you as they dont work on the street