89CAL

On a side note. I have a Hypergear SS2 which is just about as large as you can go with a low mount. I was awful close to hitting the engine mount bracket with mine, so keep that in mind

If you want to upgrade, then 6boost The stock manifold has been proven to be pretty good but I wanted to go 6boost so heres mine: IMG_0958 by 89CAL, on Flickr IMG_0910 by 89CAL, on Flickr

MSA suspension make extensions I think

Ahh yeah sorry. I was assuming it was a normal 5v sensor but now I do remember it only hitting about 1V When I had the power FC. Ignore my comments

Being a Narrowband, and from what I've seen the range from about 0.5V to 4.5V will be an AFR of about 13.5:1 to 15.0:1 This isn't 100%. but its something

There are potential for some rubbing there. The battery cable and rubbing the braid on sharp edges would be the main concern. I'd reccommend using some insulation rubber at least. Ideally P-clamps and rubber mounting would be the best

I hate it when its that cold out at work. Left in the morning once and it was 0 degrees. I hate that lol

10 degrees and 4 degrees? Is it really that cold there? lol Also, and this might just be me, but I think a bottle of injector cleaner a month is a bit excessive. I never used it with my NISMO 555's and never had any issues for 2 or 3 years

Random plug is the power steering pressure switch. Basically tells your ECU that the power steering is active and the ECU compensates to keep the revs steady I don't really see that being a problem (besides maybe the cooler not being in the 'coolest' place), you shouldnt have any issues with feeding oil back. The cooler (once full) is not alot different to it just being a hose. There is probably a slight amount more restriction, but seems weird that you are having issues with this setup

AFAIK its all demister. The Aerial pops up out the side so there is no reason for the aerial to be built into the window (like it is on the R32's) I don't recall mine not clearing fog at the top, think its all pretty good when the demister is running. I'm not near my car so cant really check

$40ish ex Japan from Amayama Link

It does look good. I'm hoping it will live up to the hype

Does the FP Speed light up green when you blip the throttle? Can you post up the fuel and IGN tables as well? have you done the TPS and MAP calibrations (looks like you have) Are the injectors set right? Is the intake air temp sensor right when it says 11 degrees? Seems awful cold for this time of the year but might just be that cold there lol

Yeah as above, make sure its on the return line. Shouldnt have any issues with flow really, there shouldnt be much pressure drop through the cooler and the pump should be able to push the oil through a cooler. Remember it does push the oil back uphill when it returns to the reservoir anyway

It will be fully open with 12V at it so the power steering will work fine. However (from the information ive found) the HICAS Ecu varies the PWM to the solenoid as speed increases till the assistance is no longer needed. I could be wrong but it makes sense

Yeah im getting voltage to the solenoid when the problem occurs. So not sure if the PWM is right but I believe it is. I want to change the solenoid but cant source a new one because they dont make them anymore. I never had issues before I changed the engine. And we accidentally ran the car on initial start up with no power steering oil so was suprised the pump has been so good lol I have a spare. I think ill just change it out and check the wiring to the solenoid

Lol fair enough. So my problem def isnt boiling fluid at least.

Off topic here but what did you notice when the p/s fluid boiled? Im still troubleshooting a problem with mine, and because the reservoir sits so close to the 6 boost manifold im wondering if its to do with heat. I lose nearly all the assistance from the power steering tge 2nd or third time I start the car (so when its been hot and then started) im womdering if my pump isnt 100% and when it gets too hot the pump isnt working efficently

I replaced mine with OEM lines while I had my engine out. Expect to pay near $100 for each

That does look good. I would be interested as well lol. How are you transmitting data between the Link and screen? Would be pretty sweet to make up a dash that utilizes this and some of the stock instruments

How are you expecting this to work? have the top of the combustion chamber open to the part of the manifold where the valve is? Because if so you will add all that extra combustion volume - Therefore reduced C:R. Not to mention the issues with heat If the air is bought in through the side then you lose a bit of volume for the air to be sucked in (proper term is escaping me atm :S) It's not a good idea, there is a reason they use conventional style valves in engines. Over the years the valve size/location/etc to improve the way the engine performs I just cant see a way for this to work any better at all

The Power FC's are designed to basically replace the stock ECU. So they will run everything that was on the car from factory. The only things you can get for them are Hand controller and boost control kit. If it was a D-jetro you could get the MAP sensor also to get rid of the AFM's

Yeah but blowing the opposite way through the line might. I'd suggest that if you have narrowed it down to one caliper then take it off and start from there. Maybe connect it to the other side and see if you can get it to work with the brake line on that side. That will completely rule out caliper. then you can mess around with the brake line. It will mean starting from scratch pretty much but re-bleeding brakes is not such a big deal compared to the trouble you have had so far lol

I was on their site last night looking at the top feed rails. Might just be having issues today. I cant see it being an issue if you have thier Plenum and rail. Surely they were made to work with each other. But best bet to call them anyway I'm tossing up about changing to top feed injectors because my tuner says he can get my car running alot nicer with ID's instead of the Nismo's I have now. But it runs great now and I'm not going to save a fortune in fuel by changing over so I dont think I'll worry about it at the moment. But interested to see how the plazmaman rail and changing over to top feed injectors goes

The difference lies mainly in the tuning software. I think the ECU's themselves are pretty much the same. The Vipec has a thing called mixture map which my tuner says is the best thing about the vipec compared to the link. This is only a tuning thing but, no effect on the way it behaves when driving