89CAL

Ahhh I forgot about that too. Was wondering why it was on at what seemed like a weird time

Do you always re-check the wheel nuts after going for a drive? Def a good practice for doing it properly

Maybe to try the wanted to buy section?

Could be. But check your brake fluid first. This turns the light on as well (well in r33's anyway)

Did you leave an Earth off somewhere? I know alot of strange problems caused by bad Earths

The spec is 650rpm but I dont recall ever dropping the rpm that much to do it. But if all else fails I guess it couldn't hurt to drop it temporarily

I dont recall ever having the idle that low to adjust it. but then again I set mine with a power FC and hand controller, so you can at least see what the timing is doing using that

the spec is 650rpm, but thats to low for an RB25. I've never met anyone who thinks they should idle at 650 If yours as at 750rpm I would leave it there

Just in case, there is an earth lug from the coilpack loom (just behind Coilpack #6) that is pretty easy to leave off. I've lost track of how many times Ive done plugs and nearly left this off

How did you manage to check it without a plug lead?

As for the stock oil pressure gauge, its not very accurate so dont pay too much attention to it. Remember cold oil is thicker than hot oil so when the car is cold you will have more pressure I think between 4-2kg/cm-sq is about what it should sit at on idle. As for the clutch slave, give the whole thing a flush with some new oil. Just keep flushing till clean oil comes out. See how it goes before spending money on it

Why are you re-doing the belt? I thought you had checked it multiple times already? Dont worry about the idle, dont worry about the plugs. Just chuck a lead between cyl #1 spark plug and coilpack #1, put the timing light on there, unplug the TPS, Start the car and see what you get There may be no need to adjust the idle. I dont recall having to drop mine and you may find that the timing is able to be adjusted. Then you can change plugs etc afterwards. So just check the timing first

Yeah could be. Theres no screw on the ECU in 33s. AFAIK you have to take off one of the plugs on the aac valve and the turn the screw on the AAC valve till its right. Theres something on it in the DIY section I think Dont worry too much about the idle at the moment

Sorry, I thought u were talking about setting the base timing wrong (to advanced) then driving and having to much timing in the car. Kinda makes sense now that I have re-read it

I just saw an E60 05 model M5 on carsales for $47,000..... That seems oddly cheap........

should just need to unplug the TPS have a look at the timing for a bit before adjusting anything. If it is pretty constant then I'd say it will be fine to adjust. If it jumps around I'd take another look at things

It's not hard to overtighten wheel nuts on a car. I don't even use a 1/2" rattle gun to do these up. Seriously..... How hard is it to do 5 nuts up by hand? Alot easier than replacing studs or getting stripped nuts off Undoing them with a rattle gun is O.K, but doing them up with one for me is too risky

PM the group buy organiser (can't remember his user name) He may have a kit left or be able to get you some. Doesnt hurt to ask

I told you, it should be coaxial. As long as there is a little bit of cable still hanging out of the antenna you should be able to use a joiner like this and a bit of extra coax to fix it http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/COAX-CABLE-QUICK-JOINER-CONNECTOR-/281204431676

The ECU would be pulling timing because of knock rather then timing. The car doesnt actually know what the timing is doing, it is outputting timing based on the CAS. The CAS can be on upside down, the car still puts in 15 degrees timing relative to the CAS.

Yeah my engine manual says you need to disconnect the 'throttle sensor connection' so need to unplug the TPS I think I had the timing jumping around within a few degrees of 15 when I did this for the first time with either my stock ECU or Power FC. Didnt have the TPS unplugged OP you can either put the idle down to 650rpm (Which I think is too low) or try it with the TPS unplugged at 750rpm. I dont recall ever having to many issues. AFAIK Disconnecting the TPS tricks the computer into thinking it shouldnt be in the idle map so it goes to default map. It's harder without a scan tool or something plugged into the car to confirm it is at the timing you want. But if you check the timing with a plug lead and timing light, with the TPS disconnected and its pretty steady, I'd say you will be fine. Try it with the TPS plugged in as well for comparison if you want. FYI I think you have to unplug or plug in the TPS before starting the car. So need to turn off the car, unplug, start car, check timing. Not 100% sure but think there was something like that

Its how I've always done it. 8mm bolt, head fits perfect in the boot and lead fits perfectly over the shank of the bolt. Nothing has been wrecked and it always works. I don't see what the big issue is obviously you dont use a 20mm bolt to do this, I'm sure I'm not the only one who uses a small bolt, after all I had to get the idea from somewhere

O.K to elaborate on the above, Plug the lead on the spark plug as you normally would with a plug lead. Now in the other end that would normally go on the coil/dizzy, put an appropriate size bolt in the coilpack and plug the lead into this (I put the head of the bolt in the coilpack) Now I think you have to unplug the TPS or AAC to get it to sit on base idle so the timing remains constant. I cant remember this part yet but a google search should be able to find the answer (or search on here)

Remember Rosberg was falling back near Seb at one stage so probably used a bit of fuel to build a gap back up. Hamilton didnt have to live in the turbulent air, which they keep telling us does bad things for tyres, fuel economy etc, so I guess the start of the race might have snowballed the rest? Who knows. Theres so much to question at this stage, and noone is willing to give any answers so what can you do

Not really, It's going to be double bad for team morale. Going to have an angry Botas, angry Williams and a half angry Massa (For them asking him in the first place). Bottas had a chance to steal some more points off Button, and a slim chance to drag Massa with him. Good for the team. Worst case sceneraio, Button and Bottas take each other out, Massa gains his place back +1 and they can say they tried (although they would not be happy about losing points/damaging a car like that) I can understand why Massa didn't want to do it, but this early in the season, fighting for minor positions, I think they have to try and get as much as they can. Championships arent on the line, its only race 2. Sometimes you have to think about the team when your not as fast as the other guy and theres another team only a couple of seconds in front