89CAL

Buy some better injectors and tune. The SS2 feels amazing when pushed. Mines great

Can you get a VIN number? I can lookup the seal kit then. Otherwise ask the guys at Kudos Motorsport. They can usually get genuine Nissan parts easily and know what suits what

Yeah I don't understand, I know Link have great support and their own Forum. Not sure about Vipec but nearly everything on the Link can be applied to the Vipec. They are basically the same ECU I have never been happier then I am now with the Link, its been great so far

Lol. Im still not sure. Ill make a decision when I finish evil karma on infamous. Gone back to gta 5 online lately. Its still a really fun game

Yeah and the plus woth a vipec/link is that you can use an input for a temperature or pressure input to bring up a warning or make the ECU behave in a certain way. I have my bare essiantial gauges and I dont even think about the stuff I used to have up on the power fc, and as others have said you wont have much time to look on the track and would be better off the information being sent to the ECU because it will react alot quicker anyway

Doesnt have ABS does it?

Yeah I thought id miss it but I dont really miss it at all. Also from what I can find only the links have the attatchable display so I wouldnt stress too much about it. Will be fine

14.7psi > stock boost IS GREATER THAN The ECU assumes a problem when it sees more airflow then its expecting so puts the thing into rich/retard so the car wont feel faster Quite the opposite actually. I ran mine on 10psi when it had stock ECU thinking it was cool. Then one day I turned it back down to 8psi or so and it felt quicker. I put mine on a dyno at 10psi I think and the AFR's were in the mid/low 10:1 which is far to rich

I'll translate, because I' in a nice mood 1kg/cm sq is around 1bar 1bar is around 14.7psi 14.7psi > stock boost

hmmm that makes it interesting then why did you put quotation marks around genuine? Was it not from a completely reliable place or second hand or something along those lines? That might be my only concern now. If bolts were done up right, and sounds like the tension was O.K (without knowing how hard you were turning it to get 1/4 of a turn) I have my own 1/4 of a turn method that I've been doing for quite a while now on alot of different belts (heavy machinery mostly) and usually is pretty good on your standard v-belts. But as said, I've been doing it my way for years with no issues, but your way and my way might be the same in theory but completely different lol.

How tight did you do the bolts up? Are you sure it wasn't to tight? have seen this failure before. Can't remember exactly but think it was overtight belt

As above, its pretty obvioust that you do need to check timing every time you remove and re-install the CAS. You can mark the CAS and timing cover and try and bolt it up tight in the same spot, but it may not be 100% And seriously, get over yourself. I tried to help you, and I think if you look back you will find my first 2 posts were as helpful as I could be with the information I had. It was because I asked you about the spacers/washers behind the CAS 3 times with no response (And you still havent actually said that you have checked they are there) So I will explain to you why they are important. If they are not there, the CAS bottoms out and pushes the shaft etc into the bearings, causing extra wear which will lead ot bearing failure and NOISE.

Vipec are good, I have a Link which is near enough as makes no difference to the same thing. Better than the Power FC I had before You can buy displays for them, but they are much larger then the PFC hand controller. Price wise, best to shop around. To get the ECU plus any sensors etc and the expansion harness (which I recommend getting) you'll probably be between $1500-$2000. I'm not completely up to date with the Vipec, but I know they have added something to there new units which might include a bigger internal MAP sensor. Not 100% but, best to ask your local/nearest Vipec dealer anyway to give you a price on everything you will need Yes it does use the standard ECU casing

Change the engine instead of something you can buy for less than $200.... I was going to say CAS originally but didnt seem right because the car drove ok then stopped and had problems. Looks nasty lol

Swap out the engine? Because you don't know whats wrong with it? :S

Yeah something along those lines is my next bet but seen as the car ran ok until it popped I thought maybe cooler pipe. Sounds like something could have happened to the CAS otherwise but

Has a hose popped off?

Yes turn the heater on You wont get coolant everywhere with the cap off because it doesnt get to pressurize. Youll get a bit of spillage but not too bad Not real sure where the bleed screws are on gtr's but youll see a steady stream of water coming out with no bubbles when its free of air. You should be able to work out what I mean when you see it. Btw you only need to unscrew it 1 or 2 turns not all the way

I wont even bother anymore. Myself and at least one other person have told you what the problem most likely is. And you continue to ignore it. I cant be bothered anymore with people that don't read/listen

I've asked the same question twice........ The thick washers NEED to be there. Did you replace it with a new or a second hand CAS? If its second hand, whos to say it isnt semi stuffed as well?

No its a GTS-t just has a GTR spoiler and sidepods. They are Lenso D1R's

I would also like to know about the 6-boost gasket...... My 6-boost only came with a T3 gasket.... I might have to complain to Kyle

Yeah thats why the one ive linked is probably better. Can just hook on/acc up to the rocker switch and push button straight to the starter so you can kill it with the rocker switch and then have a few switches for anything else like launch control, anti lag, intercooler sprayer. Whatever you want If you want a push button on off switch then yeah that will require a specialised unit or some sort of circuit to be made up With the start button, if you have provision for an oil pressure switch you can even wire it up to inhibit start when the thing is running

I get free coolant so its good for me. Not anything you can buy at your local autobarn etc The car is black.......

If OP says what exactly he wants I might be able to make up a little wiring diagram