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Random, but my old VL had a screw you had to hold your finger on while turning the key. I can PM the location to you of where it was, probably shouldnt announce it on here As for how it was done... I have no idea. Screw with a wire off to somewhere. Car came like that so never bothered to check it out. It didnt have an alarm so must have just been utilising the stock electrics etc. Not sure it would even be an option on the VL. It let everything turn on but the starter

Sorry cant help, but is that definently a GTR diff? I didnt think any of the GTR Diffs had the 6x1 half shaft pattern, i thought they were all 3x2

Well looks like ive finished infamous now lol. Well havent taken over all the districts but have done all the good missions. Might have to start again and go evil

RBR Threaten to Quit F1 Sounds like a temper tantrum but Would be horrible for Dan if this was true

I have the lock nuts from Taleb Tyres. They have been fine

Yeah those lines are just to the heater and then back. Nothing splits off them etc. so you can just join them together if thats what you want to do

O.K for a start, no you are not testing voltage at the solenoid. you are testing voltage either accross the solenoid or accross the ECU. you need to put the positive from the multimeter where you want to test for voltage and the negative on a good chassis ground/earth This is a definative way of testing voltage at that one point. Testing accross things is not always effective. If you check the way I have said you may find you have different readings. Note I say MAY. The way the ECU earths the solenoid may give you true readings sometimes As said above, its not hard to swap the ports over. All I can remember about mine is that the boost lines were at 90 degrees (the way they went in and out of the solenoid) I followed Paulr33's guide for hooking it up and it worked fine Checking resistance accross something is basically how you have done it in the photo but you want to be checking it like that on the solenoid wires. This will give you the restistance from where the power enters the solenoid then comes back out Going back through your original post, I dont think the behaviour voltage wise is that strange given the way you are testing it. There arent many multimeters that can measure the voltage changes that you get with PWM, so its not really possible to measure the solenoid 'doing its job' as the values will be all over the place. My $600 fluke multimeter would struggle/probably not even get close to being able to show it, let alone the $20 meter you have there. I'm not having a stab, those multimeters are fine for doing most things that you will ever need to do on a car etc. Just play with the plumbing and try it. As far as I can see the solenoid is doing something so its either an ECU fault or a boost plumbing problem

It may show up in sensor/sw check, being that I've only ever dealt with R33 Power FC's which dont have to worry about T/C etc so I'm not 100% sure what differences there will be but, if its throwing a check engine light, most likely you will find the cause of this (if nothing else) on the Hand controller. Usually a problem with a sensor or switch is the problem so sensor/sw check on the hand controller will show up (the problem sensor is highlighted in black) if there is one. Try and borrow one if you can and have a look

Troll successful fed and has moved on. Thread is on the downward slope now......

I always tighten by hand, sometimes loosen with rattle gun. Aftermarket steel nuts should be O.K. I've seen aluminium etc nuts that dont like as much torque, because obviously its a softer metal

I dont think consult works with Power FC's, nor does bridging across the plug This feature only works with the stock computer. This is why there is no aftermarket 'hand controller that plugs in the OBDII (?) Port

Looks good I want a Macro lense, but don't think I'd use it nearly enough to justify it. Would be great to have but

Very nice Id still really love to get some nice lightning shots like that but it never storms here lol Do you mind if I ask what program you used to process those photos?

Ive never used a torque wrench, never lost a wheel, never broken a stud. I always thought I did them up pretty tight as well

Id say its the same as my idea. You dont need to run it all the way from the switch because you can pick it up where it joins the headlight. Because there is such a small amount of current through the relay coil to activate the relay, you wont put anywhere near as much load on the switch etc

NO is no circuit. Its the same as it is with electronics. Ive told you how mine worked. I never checked voltages im just going off assumptions, and im not sure how you are measuring voltages (as you said you arent 100% with a multimeter) So ive told you how mine worked. So if you turn it off and you arent getting open boost then something about yours is different to mine

My PFC boost control kit was NO when I had it thats for sure. Because I had it off running a line straight to the gate for a while, then plugged it all back in and forgot to turn it on and it went to 27psi before I backed off. So try with the solenoid plugged in, the PFC BC kit turned off, to blow through the solenoid from the boost signal side to the wastegate side. It should blow out the other port. It does make a difference which way it is plumbed because if its back to front you will get crappy boost control then if you make it to the target it would start rising more and more (think about how its supposed to work compared to if it worked in the opposite way) Or in theory this is how it should be anyway If yours is internal gate it should be working as above, mine was internal gate and worked pretty well faultlessly the whole time I had it set up as above. Just remembered to that the solenoid should get constant power then it is earthed through the ECU for duty cycle, so you should see 13V at the solenoid to check resistance accross the solenoid, just get a multimeter, put it in resistance/ohms (the omega symbol one) and measure from one pin to the other (or one wire to the other) on the solenoid. Usually I get single digits when I test coils, so I would assume anything under 20 (as an uneducated 'worst case' sceneraio guess) should be fine.

Perhaps he meant 100kg/h?

Easy enough. Wire the coil of the relay to the existing wires at the ballast (wherever the stock wires are) and then run a wire from the battery to the relay, to the +ive connection for the HID's (put an inline fuse in before the ballast) then the -ive connection straight to chassis/ground Id use 2 relays (1 for each light) and rated at 30amps or so. You can use 1 relay for both but itd be better to use 2 if you dont want to burn anything else out. You can get proper headlight relays that actually have blade fuses in them but 2 standard relays should be fine. The HID side should be wired to the normally open side of the relay

As already said, fuel flow limits, limit the peak horsepower If they were allowed to double the fuel flow, they would get a significant increase in HP. Think about if they did this for half a lap to overtake someone. They could still make it to the end and overtake someone with an advantage. But then the person in front could also increase the fuel flow to defend. So it limits max HP, but also has implications on fuel usage

Its still a bit glitchy when climbing walls. The camera doesnt do what you want it to. Think people who have played will understand. But its not enough to ruin it, doesnt always happen

f**k. Theres no point arguing, because noone on here will ever know if RBR were using a legal amount or twice the legal amount of fuel. The other teams had expressed concerns about it, now Porsche (who use the same sensors in one of their race cars) have said they have had issues with it as well The hearing is set, the sensor looks questionable, but RBR ignored warnings from the FIA about it during the race. They might win the appeal, they might lose. Noone here knows if the Mercedes is that far superior that even when using more fuel the RBR couldnt keep up To me this argument is pointless

Excellent We talking later this week or longer then that?

Do you know anyone with a wideband you can chuck on? Just be good to check the AFR's Id just check fuel pressure with a gauge but. You may end up replacing the FPR and then find it does the same thing. Sounds like something else to me.

Sounds like somone has modded yours to fix a leak. On Fast it shows a copper washer on either side of the banjo and thats all. This is for an R33. But I dont see why a 34 would be any different. I've only ever seen dowie washers or copper washers used on banjo bolts, 1 on either side. Something seems a bit odd with yours. Id check there is no obvious defects on the banjo or pump (Or even the banjo bolt) that has caused the previous owner/workshop to mod it in such a way to band-aid fix it If you dont want to replace the hose, you could try installing it again with a bit of loctite 515 or similiar