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There won't be a problem if the it is monitored by the stewards, even post race. Judge whatever the teams say and penalise calls that break the rules. As above - Rear tyre/aero failing, a radio message telling the driver that there may be a problem with the rear tyre/aero - acceptable Radio the driver telling them - setting 3 for diff, should see a 0.1sec gain in sector 2 - not acceptable I think, as mentioned, some 'reactive' radio transmission need to occur for safety reasons. I don't think you can simply program the car to send a good/bad status signal. The cars probably have at least 2 sensors for just about everything, imagine what happens when a sensor fails? And believe me it does happen. The car would immediatly send a bad signal. Teams need to be able to watch parameters to avoid grey areas like this. I know there will be 100 different coded messages to get around the rules for radio transmissions in these situations, but to me its something the teams have to have. Theres alot of reasons for and against, but this is how I see it anyway

Hasn't it already been discussed that the small power increase may be due to the tune being leaner (as there is oxygen in the fuel, resulting in more air:less fuel AFR due to injecting the same amount pump fuel vs fuel with additive?) The initial dyno graph has thrown me a bit though, it looks to me like the AFR's were richer with the additive when it made more power. I might have to go back and have a look but this doesnt make sense to me if it is the case. Octane booster shouldnt change the AFR, just make it possible to run more timing I'm sorry to join the sceptical people in here, but I can't see the power gain (if it can be proven to be worthwhile) being worth $60 a tank. UNLESS it ends up being as benefical as E85, but I remain sceptical

I think given the complexity of the cars and how new the power packs are, this year (at least) there needs to be information sent from the car. I might be alone here, but I think it would be pretty crap if 10 cars broke down in the one race. I don't know if my point is really coming accross in what I'm saying but anyway. To me I think some data from the car is good, if it is only used to tell the drivers the car is overheating, exceeding required fuel economy. I dunno, I absoloutly see what people mean about the drivers needing to think while racing, but to me they are there to drive, and have enough to think about without scrolling through menu's telling them engine,ERS etc temps, fuel consumption, lap time (and delta) along with activating DRS, KERS (To a lesser degree this year albeit), and changing settings I'm not against the ban on radio transmission/instructions that they are imposing at all though.

Watched some gameplay on my PS4 today. The guys playing were killing a bunch of things and then dying on purpose to level up I think so can't take too much away from it, but it looks pretty arcadey and doesn't really look like my thing. As I said, it wasnt the best gameplay to judge, but I'm not sold anyway

Just jap sell new 25 boxes for under $3000 A rebuild may be over half that price so something to think about Edit: missed this page. Beaten to it lol

The middle shows the last part that hung on then twisted and snapped. Will have to find my failure analysis book, haven't had much to do with metal failures lately. That is a very clean break. I had a similar looking failure with a rear drive shaft. Almost identical actually. That was from a high rpm launch

I hadn't really gotten into it, but judging from all the hype/advertising etc, I thought it was going to be a great game. Kinda glad I didn't rush out to buy it so far.

What ECU?

I'd try some redline lightweight in it first. Having pulled a 25 gearbox apart, they are fairly labour intensive. I had a few shift problems and redline seemed to help, would be much cheaper then a box rebuild and it might work. For $100 or so, its worth a go

Wait wait. You say the slave is moving a a good distance, and an Inch sounds about right. But you are still looking at the master? If the slave is moving that far, it sounds like you have a problem AFTER the slave. Maybe you are hoping not, because pulling the box off is a big job, but I think you are wasting your time with the master at this point. You need to look inside at the clutch/fork/throwout bearing etc. You might be able to peel the boot away enough to have a look inside.

Photo of the break in the shaft. Should be able to tell a bit about how it failed

OK. So if you are confident that the system has been bled 100%, have checked for leaks then I think you need to grab a second person, get under the car and watch the slave cylinder to see what it is doing. If it looks like it is travelling a good distance (I think the throw is about 2cm? But someone correct me if I'm wrong, this is an educated guess) If the slave is travelling the distance fine, then it may be a problem around the clutch itself. If the travel is not so good then it can only be slave, master or clutch pedal (adjustment, bracket etc) If it were me, thats where I'd start

You haven't listed your power, which really tells more of the story then how much boost you are running. Depending on power/torque, with a 7200rpm launch with power going to all 4 wheels, it might just be something that should not have been done. Better photo of the fracture?

That looks like the front tie-rod Rear HICAS part you want looks like this: EDIT: In Fact the picture you have linked IS the front tie rod (outer) as per this link

I wouldnt worry about heat I have a wiring harness running a few inches away from turbo/wastegate/exhaust running 23psi and just shy of 300rwkw at the moment and all I have on it is heat wrap. No melting yet it does look fairly hideous though, How come all that stuff is there like that? Removed for some reason and never properly put back?

Vipec/Link are the new thing. I have a Link and I'm very happy with it It all really depends on what your tuner likes/tunes/sells etc. Probably best to have a chat with whoever is tuning it about it, see what they think. Mention Link or Vipec (or both) and see what they say. I don't have much experience with Haltech but from what I've read some people seem to love them, were as others think they are crap. I havent found alot of negative feedback about the Link/Vipec's. I'm a bit biased, I like the features mine has but anyway I had a mate with a Wolf 3D in his R32, seemed to perform fine and ran a MAP sensor. But I don't know alot about them. The place he worked at sold them, so he got it cheap and tuned it himself so he obviously was happy with it. But apart from that they don't seem to be real popular

I always worry when someone comes in and describes their turbo as a 'big f-off turbo' instead of 'GT3076, Garret GT30' etc As far as I'm concerned, first rule when moddifying your car, is knowing what your putting on it. Seems crazy to me that you would put a turbo on it that you know not alot about (or from the description given anyway I get that idea) It wont be very fun to drive around town if it makes no boost till 4500rpm

Should be right. Will just be out of a 90 model GTR most likely

Plug, Blind - 11022-16A00 $5.72 out of Japan. Your local Nissan might have stock or be able to get one in The parts diagram is not great, but its shown next to the filter stud so should be it.

Yeah I figured as much, but it just seemed an odd thing for him to say. Just wanted to make sure I found settings on the Deutschwerks website that I was going to go with but when I got the email back its thrown me for some reason All good. Waiting on some plugs to arrive ready to make the new injector harness at the moment then ready for some smooth running, especially after Johns experience with some modern top feeds. Although the Nismo's I have are a bit nicer then the Five-O motorsport ones I imagine, so not as much of an upgrade but still should be great.

I think the 25 ' s have a plug there because as someone said the bypass is in the heat exchanger. So you just need something to block it off. I can look on fast for the part number if you would like?

Anyone used the EV14'S from sonic performance? I need the dead times for them and when I emailed them and asked they said something about tuners are using the same base settings across 1000 cc injectors in the market

You may have broken the pivot ball or the pedal bracket. I believe these are the 2 most common problems in R33's

I watched a doco on it the other day, They are a bit more impressive then I thought they would be. Would watch if I had Fox Sports...... Can't be assed paying for the sports channels Formula E but

I certainly don't feel like a clown