89CAL

Mostly correct but it wont show 0 ohms at closed throttle. Probably be 12 ohms or so. Sensors usually work between .5v and 4.5v and anything outside that is out of range. This is how computers work out something is wrong with the sensor. 0 ohms is considered to low resistance and will log something like sensor voltage high etc Not trying to be critical of your post. Just adding something

Will an RB25 Exhaust manifold fit an RB25?

There has always (as far as im aware) been a DJetro for R33 GTR and recently apexi released a version for GTS-t so if the unit has the new EL scrèen (black background, yellow txt, nice and clear) then you may have a new model djetro

RE point 1: they now have to say that someone has changed the combustion engine as them saying engine can be interpreted as the complete power unit with MGU-K and MGU-H along with the combustion engine. (MGU = Motor-Generator U, K=Kinetic (runs off/on the flywheel/Crank) H=Heat (Runs off the Turbo)) Changing a whole power unit is different to just the ICE (Internal combustion engine) I believe the teams are allowed 4 power units now per year and i think this means they can change the ICE and they will still have MGU-K...... etc left. As opposed to doing the power unit and using up 1 of each I may be wrong but believe this is how it works

It is a solenoid, shouldnt matter which way the wires go

I feel like in the time you've spent asking for ways aroung the way around, you could have just organised parts to fix the problem I changed all my heater hoses with a Greddy copy plenum a few weeks back. Was a pain in the ass, but only took about 2 hours to replace all 4 heater hoses. Stop being lazy and fix the car rather than putting everything in the too hard basket.

Pretty sure method 1 is the way to go. Thats how mines hooked up off the top of my head

Have a part number for the one they tried/did supply? From my quick search 49862-04E00 - The seals at the rack 49726-Y0100 - The copper washers at the pump

18V? That is ridiculous. 15V is high Check the terminals at your altenator and check earths. Is this at idle?

The stock o2 sensor is a narrowband sensor. This means it reads a narrow range, cant remember off the top of my head the exact figure. When the car is idling (which it is in your photo) then the o2 sensor is pretty much reading nothing, it is outside its designed operating range. The o2 sensor only really does anything at cruise. With the Power FC you can turn it off in your settings/etc menu (from memory), its o2 feedback you want to change. FWIW I had mine disabled permanently and tuned the car to the cruise AFR's I wanted It will not be the cause of your starting issues. The o2 sensor does nothing during startup. If you don't believe me, turn o2 feedback off and you will see no difference. The problem is probably with the tune of the car. Without a wideband o2 sensor and gauge, its not so easy to diagnose, and by the sounds of it you would be better off taking it back to your tuner if you are not happy with the way it starts. Most tuners will happily fix starting issues for free, however if its a cold start problem it is a bit harder becasue the car has to be cold before they can look at it, which means if you drive it to the tuner it has to sit there for a while

Did you plug the ambient temp sensor in behind the dash (right side of the steering wheel, there is a little vent thing in the dash) The A/C should still kick in if this happens but it wont blow cold air unless its on full cold. I doubt you could have screwed anything up if the Climate control module is still working. There was a thread made recently about A/C compressor issues (can't remember what the thread is called) but I posted up some info on what wires do what in the system and so on. Get a multi meter and find that thread and start probing wires. There should be 12V at the compressor when its turned on (Compressor clutch)

Just trying to rule out some more basic stuff first. I've seen crazier things before. If its stock ECU, after you clean the AAC etc, do a reset on the ECU. It might sort itself out

This is true with non contact sensors, but I believe because the R33 use a driven speedo sensor it is not an issue

It doesnt really seem like a dirty AAC because it doesnt do it all the time (but anything is possible) Is it just a standard ECU or has it got an aftermarket or piggyback unit fitted? Is there anything that might be causing the problem that you arent realising, for example clutch in, in neutral and so on? Is your throttle cable too tight? Or is something holding it ever so slightly off being fully closed? Trying to think of an electronic reason, but it really has to be the ECU telling the AAC to hold the car at 1100rpm momentarily Will keep having a think about this one

95 is S1.5 which is basically S1 front end. Series 1 Lights are what you need.

46-52Nm Click here for bolt torque pattern (just over half way down)

Why does the tacho needle flicker a bit? Is it really an issue? It looks to me like its just a decel fuel cut issue, like sometimes the decel fuel cut is deactivating at different times or something. I found a similar thing happen when pulling up to a set of lights (not sure if it was on the Power FC or stock ECU). It would idle a bit higher until the car speed decreased to zero then went back to normal idle

These were pretty much my thoughtsYou dont have the locator broken off the cam and have the CAS a tooth out? The ECU was flashed to run 12psi? If it were me id get a 25 ECU and see if that improves things. Sounds like it would run better with a stock ECU anyway. Turn boost down to around 7psi

I wouldnt keep spare guards and bonnet 'just in case' I need them one day. They take up alot of room and may never be needed Id stockpile gaskets and clips etc personally. I have a small collection of this stuff at the moment. Sensors and shit as well would be a good thing Things that are likely to fail At the moment its easy to get most parts you might need. I bought the clips for the reat seats and the harness + cap for the headlights of my r33 the other day relatively cheap

I thought you had to tell it you were doing free air calibration but im no innovate expert I would put the bung in pre cat (as per the installation manuals reccomendations) and go from there. You may need to buy a new sensor, for the money they cost and the peace of mind will be well worth it. I know innovates had some issues a few years ago but cant remember if it was a problem with the sensor or the rest of the system. Dont think this is the issur but thought it was worth mentioning.

I think it is for the coolant bleeder. I had mine blocked off when I started using the front facing manifold and the only thing I got rid of was the bleeder Being a 26 though im not 100% sure so hopefully someone can confirm

If its stock ECU then reset the ECU. I had the same problem with a blitz BOV when I went back to stock. If aftermarket ECU then what Ben said

The genuine washers are quite thick so im assuming you are using them. And from your description it sounds like the nuts arent going on far enough for some of the thread to protrude out of the nut? Honestly, a decent stainless washer will do. The nuts (if genuine) are lock nuts so wont require a spring washer.

Did Newey play any part in this years car? I know he is focusing elsewhere but cant remember when that all happened. Youd think this years Red Bull would just be an evolution of last years but seems like they have tried to re-design more than they should have. Both drivers complain about stability, dont recall it being a problem last year

Have to agree. Watching the sky coverage on foxtel uninteruppted is well worth it, but I did already have foxtel. Only problem I have nowis there are no add breaks to quickly run and do something if I need to, but I do have foxtel IQ so can pause. Minor issues lol