jet_r31

Out of interest , if your knock limited atm, have you tried just straight water cheers darren

can you start the pipe at 40mm and taper it to 44mm for the gate? Be easy if you didn't have to make it out of steampipe, makes it a bit harder to work with..lol cheers darren

no way, its hasn't been a liquid for a long time, before it gets anywhere near there , i have run it for along time as has my brother, and his freinds now all pre-turbo, all 25psi+ 98 octane tunes pre-turbo is best for WI, just have to get around the compressor wear bit cheers darren

Are you using the stock exhaust manifold or did you make one? Are you planning to put the setup on kill to see how much we can get out of this particular turbo? The more i look, the more i like the idea of a TD06 SL2 20G 10cm,stock mani, weld gate on either exhaust housing or adapter ....set on kill with some pre-turbo water injection cheers darren

I can't remember, and i am not searching but don't R34 gtr turbos have smaller exhaust housings? .64 vs .48? theres enough info on the net with back to back BB versus journal and i've backed to backed it aswell,(BB T28 versus journal) transient response is "slighlty" better, but only really noticed on light throttle openings(1/4 throttle, bringing up a few pounds of boost ), so maybe for a motorkhana car its worth it, for the rest of us it won't make a difference Pretty much feels like running a bleed valve versus a EBC when you use really light throttle openings to just bring up a few psi, the ebc feels that little bit more perky cheers darren

^^^I agree, i just know from playing with WI, that there will be no gains without tuning changes, if the OP does what i said it would be a very interesting read, my mate many many yrs ago,when the fastest gtrs in the land only ran low 11's , had a stock 32 Gtr with just a dodgy water injection setup with a washer bottle motor and a piece of copper pipe on 1.2 bar stock turbo's, stock computer, stock injectors , shifted timing via crank angle sensor, car ran 11.4 at 121mph on pump he then fitted stock r34 turbo's, it then went 11.3 at 124mph, embrassed all the big dollars spenders with there hks low mounts way back then. So it can be fun to play with! edit: i remember now, the stock pump was hardwired and it had a teed off extra injector(550cc) triggered of a hobbs pressure switch cheers darren

If your just using a water jet, yeh it will wear the comp wheel quite quick, as for making it break...ROFLMAO...it rounds of the edges first on the blade tip.... To give the comp wheel a fighting chance you need a nozzle that squirts water and air separatly to break the water into finer microns Injecting water without tuning is just going to result in lag and usually less power, you need to 1. add timing 2. or add boost to make it work If you dynoed the car with maxed out the stock compressors and add as much timing on 98 octane as you could to reach MBT, and then put the water injection on and did the same again, then that would be interesting reading but atm, this thread is a whole lot of nothing cheers darren

Cream leather is interesting aswell, anyone seen one in real life?, i saw a full cream leather interior for sale on yahoo japan the other day cheers darren

I can understand tattoos, just not of a stagea..lol, i can just see it being one of those tattoos you regret later.. but each to there own cheers darren

I'm ready to buy now , What do you guys think of this one, with the SL2 rear wheel, haven't seen this one up there before. I want a turbo that can do 320- 340rwkw(in a manual) i don't need anymore than that as i will be trans limited, so if i can knock of a bit of top end flow and pick up spool, then all the better http://www.ebay.com....984.m1438.l2649 What would a TD06SL2-20 G 10cm external gate do maxed out on a RB25? you have any idea STATUS?..anyone? cheers darren

What the biggest comp cover that fits with the standard RB 25 exhaust mani(with a little spacer) is it 3 inch? and what would the TDO6H-20g with 12cm housing IW housing be like? anyone have a rough idea with spool difference form 10cm to 12cm- 300-400ish rpm? cheers darren

It going to look great when you 50..lol cheers darren

what did the original SS2 make 20psi by? 4800rpm? cheers darren

Those toyota ones also split the tanks easy, makes it hard to trace that boost leak. I don't get your reluctance to run china?, why overcomplicate something so simple? they are cheap and work better than anything anyone is proposing or the toyota one you where contemplating cheers darren

going back in my mind, the old supra stuff, while being a good size, has a bad pressure drop, i had one in my corrolla 10yrs ago, made 110rwkw on 20psi on a toyota 5K , i picked up to 140 rwkw on 20psi going to a decent core, from memory the pressure drop was 6 ish psi. Whilst not first hand also saw the same thing with a dyno test on a vl turbo in a magazine at 180-200rwkw ish. I'd go china return flow in flat black myself cheers darren

until you strip 3rd gear with over 300awkw and all that weight:)... woudn't be to hard to do at all cheers darren

Different box, Re401Ra versus Re401rb, my re401ra went 370rwkw with just a shiftkit in a lighter car before taking a crap cheers darren

Yep and the Built(not just shiftkitted) series 2 boxs that MV's do are rated for 320rwkw, think they where about 2.5G cheers darren

Nice work,you'll get there.... these things are bloody heavy for 260rwkw and only 105mph traps, I was hoping 300rwkw ish would be good for 115ish mph traps. cheers darern

it would only do that with a standard torque converter, woudn't happen with a modified larger one, and they are usually fully manualised anyway when built up, no drive at all But yeh they have no engine braking, thats the big one, manuals will always be better in hills or on track cheers darren

doesn't work like that, you have to talk to a specialised in autos,HIGHLY preferably with turbo experience or they make a right f**k up of it a 2800 rpm converter will go to 3500 easily once boost is applied, heck a 3500rpm converter will go to 6500rpm once it has any boost applied to it, A torque converter slips the more torque applied to it, as boost go up, more torque is applied and the converter slips harder again . Converters are all rated for atmo motors. cheers darren

because they are f**k loads quicker than manuals with a good converter on streeters, and 10 times easier on the drivetrain, full boost all the time, no lag inbetween shifts, basically feels like you are on a plane going down a runway with big power autos , the pull just builds and builds and builds absolutely seemlessy..you don't feel the shifts as the converter is slipping...awesome feeling A good torque converter will hold the car on near peak power from throttle on... till redline when it finally locks up. manuals feel really clunky and horrible after experiencing this! cheers darern

I will be auto trans limited to 320rwkw, thats what they are happy to rate a built RE401B to. I was going to go SS-2 with pre-turbo water injection. Would do around 300 ish rwkw on 20psi through a auto by the looks anyway without W/I, that plenty for what i want anyway on a stocky bottom end . My r31 is the fast car, i just want a fast family stagea that traps 115ish mph, they are heavy though, you would probally need that power nearly to do that. cheers darren