Bumblebee

geez this has gone pretty darn far now.. lol who cares about loss. It loses a few kw's to heat friction blah blah... It will always lose who cares. Now as for my vl turbo has 300kw and cant do 11s but the <250kw R35 can is simple... The GTR has one of the lowest drag ratings to be released on a car.. it literally slips through the air.. so all that power doesnt have to overcome the amount of drag that say.. my gtr has to.. my gtr makes a hell of a lot more power than the new gtr, but id be damnd if i could hit 100 in 3.3 seconds or even 150 in like 5.3 secs... it'll do an 11 sec 1/4 but thats because its got loads of power... Power isnt everything when it comes to Supercars.. 353kw and it goes over 300km/h.... id hit 300... but as comfortable as a GTR?? no chance..

but i still want the new GTR.. its fkn SEX

loss is approx 25% no matter the power output... Its more of a how well things are designed to keep power loss to a minimum.. but most RWD cars have a 25ish % loss through drivetrain.. awds going through a hydra transfer case lose more. 350kw makin 280 @ all wheels.. keep dreamin buddy

GTR and GTS4 dont lose much goin rwkw to awkw?? i beg to differ i lose about 30kw goin from rwkw to awkw... and thats normal. u always lose going awd to rwd especially when it goes through something like a torque converter for a transfer case

u would lag forever hahaha... theyre laggy on an rb26.. theyre going to kill ur engine.. good for apparently 400-450hp ur better off going with a single turbo... the turbos of today are incredibly advanced since the early 90's.. so u can get a similar output turbo that'll come on much earlier

rebuild the bottom end??? theres nothing wrong with mine More innovations?? like what? it doesnt have anything, that the other didnt have.. and what car had HICAS, ATTESA b4 the R32??? No1 as far as i knew

Long live the R32 GTR

i agree with the GTSS turbo choices and 800cc is overkill... id say 550cc would be more appropiate.. ur internals dont need to be touched with that, but u will need to make sure that the tune is spot on for the bottom end to last. as for 600hp+ @ fly.. im over ur stupidity.. if u cant figure it out then thats your problem. 430hp @ 4 wheels is going to be more than a 170hp loss through the drivetrain champ.. GTSS gets my votes

it wasnt supposed to be 320rwkw... it was meant to be 320awkw.. and u dont lose much power goin from rwd to awd? so why is it.. i cant crack 300kw in awd.. but in rwd i can easily crack 300kw? not much difference?? no worries CHAMP im a mechanic and i know exactly how the transfer case works on the GTR and any other car on this planet, given that i have seen it. on a DYNO the GTR will put power to the front hweels because.. it "slips" the rears.. on a dyno.. the rears move and the fronts dont.. the comp see's loss of traction and engages the front. sorry dude.. but i seen the dyno figures over and over and over again and i cbf arguing with u or u internet buddies. u will always lose power going from rwd/fwd to awd

25% incorrect? ROFL ok champ a RWD car loses between 20-30% power through the drivetrain and axles from the crank.. from crank it goes into flywheel, clutch, gears, tail shaft, diff then axles the industry NORM is 20-30% Thats RWD a AWD loses a shitload more then that. Its not wrong info. its facts. a 300kw rwd car makes about 210-220rwkw. Thats a lose of roughly 80kw. And thats from going from engine dyno.. to a chassis dyno. thats higher than 20% a FWD car which makes roughyl 140kw @ crank, makes roughly 100-105kw @ wheels.. thats more than 20% If u think the losses on an AWD car which uses a pump thats virtually the same as an automatic torque converter loses LESS.. ur a dreamer in ur own right.

u wont be able to remove the backin of the comp cover.. the comp wheels is infront of it. and dont u even think about removing the wheels.. those things r perfectly balanced.. u take the wheel off and move it .1mm outta place and ull f**k ur turbo up in no time...

im sayin higher.. but its also dependant on the engine type and tuning. My car atm is makin around 390hp @ 4 wheels... which is higher than 444hp @ fly.. MUCH higher.. drive train loss will be atleast 100hp on a conservative 25% loss.. it will be higher, but say its not. that puts the injectors @ 490hp flow and theyre not @ 85% yet. i think they were sittin @ 80? cant remember too well but it wasnt that high. I thikn i can get another 40hpish outta the injectors b4 i start runnin into duty cycle problems. But depends on engine.. my last car was an rx7. i ran 4x 1600cc injectors.. ill be damnd if they could supply enough fuel for 1600hp lol... i think that one was makin around 700hp @ fly with injectors @ around 90% as for losing 70kw over a 4wd system which using hydraulics to transfer torque to the front.. ur dreamin buddy.. 320 @ wheels is well over 450kw @ crank

800cc = 800hp?? damn how incorrect is that... standard GTR injectors r what... 444cc?? so it has a max output of 444hp @ fly? lol ok champ no worries sit down b4 u hurt urself

no1 wants a cheap sub n amp??

i dunno what u blokes r on about.. my r32 atessa kicks in pretty much as soon as i have wheel spin.. whether im turning a big bend.. or an extremely sharp hairpin.. i can have the wheel full lock doin u turns and the fronts kick in as soon as the rears slip... mines pretty damn fast.. and btw.. for the bloke selling lies about broken centre diffs... they dont have a center diff.. Its a hydraulic pump much like a torque converter with many wet clutches that slip the torque to the front wheels.. not a mechanical centre diff Had it been a front diff.. it wouldnt have a variable front/rear ratio the way it does

My car loves to try spearing me into objects

Sold!!! Mods Delete!

i also get that IPS Driver Error... what the hell is it

Sold pending payment

mmm well @ 100 deg thats still fine.. u can reach higher temps then that b4 u should start gettin worried.. My guage works just as u say, but thats how its meant to work.. it will only rise dramatically if it goes to say around 110.. which is starting to get a lil hot.. Most cars these days run in the mid 100 deg temps anyway.. and although a temp guage may seem wankier... race teams all use external guages instead of a HC.. im sure they have a good reason for it too!!! as for crap OEM guages... so far ive found that my oil temp guage and boost and volt guages r stupidly wrong lol.. fuel seems ok and water seems ok but i see your point

hahah well then its not very useful at all in ur g/box And water temps?? dude.. u have a guage right infront of u for that. and u dont need to know what it is EXACTLY because the fans come on @ a preset value.. and if they dont come on.. ur guage goes hot and ur smart enough to know that it means u gotta turn the shit off... just coz it says 109.4532deg doesnt make a difference if ur guage is in the hot. and if ur guage doesnt work.. then u should fix it

and for sure theyres gonna be a restrictor! theyve had it in every single nissan turbo car theyre ever released, why would this one be any different?

of course not.. h/c = wank factor unless u own or have access to a dyno to use on ur own

Item: Sony Sub with box Age: unknown.. was in my dads car when he bought it Condition: Ran when was in car. sounds ok for a sony Price: $70 or 100 with Amp ( 310watt amp i think it was?) Location: Melbourne Contact: Pm Comments: Sounds ok i guess for a sony sub... ill add pics when i figure out how

Item:Power FC to suit R32 GTR Age: age?? ive had it for 3 months i think?? Condition:works fine.. Price: $650 To Fit: R32 GTR Location: Melbourne Contact: PM Comments: bought it maybe 3 months ago.. plugged it into the car, it ran just fine.. realised i had a chipped computer already by P.S.S whoever they might be.. had it dyno'd and it came up with nice figures and a very perfect AFR so turns out i dont need the PFC