Johnny

For a street car an air to air is fine; air to water still require a front mounted radiator for the water otherwise the water will become too hot to remove heat energy from the turbo's boost which can be quite hot. The only cars that would require an air to water intercooler would be say an MR2 as there is not many efficient places to place a large air to air cooler. A nice light intercooler with plenty of surface area is great at cooling the hot turbo air.

There was a test i read once on large dump pipes versus split ones and the results were a higher low-mid torque increase using the HKS split dump pipe. Top end power on the HKS was higher too but only marginally. CES was tested as the best as the split has the longest distance from the gate but its also probably the most pricey. For me; im going tomei as i believe the differences would be so small, not really noticible.

I just wanna add some feedback for cheap intercoolers; typically they are heavy and if you know your car well and have one installed you can instantly notice the extra weight on the front of the car; especially going over bumps etc. I noticed this in my s15 when i had a hybrid cooler kit installed. My friend bought an arc cooler and they are amazingly light which is probably where the extra money is of benefit. Trust Greddy kits are not too bad either. We all have nice cars here and its probably best to save the extra money and buy quality rather than the 'i want it now' attitude.

Hey man, Very nice pics. I was tryna think of words to describe how it looks: Sexy? definitely! and it really pops with the GTR kit and colour. Im sure many people would be hard pressed to tell it from a real gtr....this car is one people would stare at wherever you go, i know i would. midnight purple or cherry purple is like the Rhianna colour for cars.....you just wanna eat it.

Definitely go power fc; at least you will have a factory ECU spare for EPA 1500-1900 will get you the fc + handcontroller + tune plus you can always add mods and have a quick dyno tune to get them to run optimally

??? ive never heard of it; got a link to the sale or a pic?

+1 getrag plug light flywheel and twin plate clutch is awful.

Whats the default setting on the power fc for knock and engine light; was it 60? bu who knows how high its going

Damn! cant wait to read about your results...all the best I only have one car now; sold a 98 honda civic just a month ago so now its jst me and my line'.. my uni is down the road so i may take the tram.

Im interested how abrasive do you go with the polish? guess it would depend on depth of the swirls/scratches etc; do u use an ultrasonic depth gauge to check thickness of the clear coat post polish do you finish with a glaze before paint protection and what type of protection do you use; polymer or organic waxes? My cars black and ive spent alot of time detailing but im not confident enough to use an abrasive polish and orbital polisher.

Did you get it back yet mate!!! Ive heard the today or tommorow turn into next month.

^^ hmm didnt know about the oil level; +1 check it then on a nice level surface. Im almost 100% confident that the mechanic took the car for a long thrash....that or the apprentice. On full throttle for a 15minute thrash you can burn quite a bit of fuel. He then filled it up with 91octane; cheap bastard! maybe we should all write down the odo # before leaving the car.

Thats really strange; I would have said your clutch was slipping but having read you got a twin plate..... sounds like the engine isnt using the boost so the intake system is pressurising like if you were closing the throttlebody. Might indicate a blockage; maybe oil in the intercooler, badly dialed in intake cam gear??

Maybe your mechanic took your car for a looooooong thrash and wanted to replace the fuel he wasted so he topped up the tank with 91octane rubbish and thats why your knocking.

^^^ +1 nice car and definitely worth about 70k...not 78 with the yen taking a dive; the sellers taking advantage of it...think about it; that gtr is probably 4.3-4.6million yen + 20% taxes to land it here + shipping and profit

jeeeezuz i waited 6weeks for my s15 and was already planning an assasination of the mechanic. You must have had the engine built.....obviously. Any details on the specs? turbos, internals and ECU but the question most of us want to know is......................what shop did you take it to???

Ive sold quite a few cars on carsales; best site! give the car a detail and proper cleanup, find the average price for your make/model and kms + year etc and average the price but just say you want 9000; add an extra 500 as people always like to bargain. what car is it?

for Australian conditions the best bet is 5w30 or 40 0 can be used but its very thin so it sinks to the bottom on the sump overnight and theres not much left in the head so some cars have noisy coldstarts; eg my beema which rattled soooo bad using 0w40; changed to 5w40 and it got quieter...then 10w40 and it disappeared.

Serious? what is oils optimum operating temperature?

Yeah was a bit tough cos i got a twin plate coppermix clutch and flywheel so you need revs and a nice release to take off smoothly; im doing ok now but still not confident to drive in the city or anything. man i was under the impression 89 is like far from oil temps on the track which reach past 100; i just put it into 5th gear and cruise to get airflow going, only takes bout 1minute to cool back down to 84ish.

Its all good; i couldnt drive manual when i got my car....i had to wait until dark to teach myself. All my previous cars were auto was funny cos it took me about a minute of stuffing round in 6th gear before realising you have to pull a little knob to engage reverse. We'll find a carpark and ill teach ya; pretty easy then you'll probably want a manual line after that.

If you can drive manual ill hand you the keys just dont do a runner on me lolz.

Year: 02 Model: R34 GTR Vspec 2 Trans: 6-speed getrag 1. Everytime i catch a glimpse of my car in a mirror'd shop window etc im always involved in a car jacking...luckily none got on the upholstory 2. Serz though: stock oil filter location, the terrible turning circle, the low front diffuser lip which scrapes on everything, sitting low in the bucket seats its hard to view the dimentions of the car to clear stationary objects etc.

my oil temps after alot of thrashing goes no more then 89; when it reaches that i tend to keeps the revs and load down. normally it would be 81-85 water temps are about 81-83 is everyday traffic.

^^^ Hey man yeah its true im probably overdoing it a bit but i have my oil extractor so changing my oil is sooo easy i do it for fun; i only change the oil filter every 2nd service. at 80bux for the motul 8100x-cess its half as expensive as the 300v i used to use and is much better for melbournes ever changing weather conditions. Might do the changes every 3000then as im probably being waaaay to paranoid. oh but ill show you some spirited driving man when you finish your exams and we catch up