GTScotT

LOL thanks again Darren, your experience with this sort of thing is invaluable. I keep telling my bro to go back to the original cam but he thinks this cam is the way to go. Even camtech seem to have told him putting an adjustable wheel on it will pull the powerband down 2000 RPM and make it usable, ive been arguing that they know 'fak nating' ever since I heard that. I'll get you the tag no tonight. Cheers for the suggestion also Scotty, but that would just screw us again with needing to change the manifold flange. This is the 3rd manifold this car has had from the start.. At the moment its looking like well either be changing housing size or might swap out to a larger precision item, maybe a 6262.. Unsure at this stage and trying to work with my brother makes things extremely difficult. I lose interest very quickly with the amount of arguments involved, and then it sits for 5 years lol. He's only interested if its being done his way, by someone else, and he gets to drive it in the end. Lol FUN.

Thanks for the responses guys, I appreciate the time. I'll try to address everyones questions etc. help with the thought process. I think Darren might be onto something though.. I really don't know much about single cam motors, but ill give the cam specs here. They are both camtech cams, so the specs are on their site. Ones a stage 2 turbo cam (brother refuses to go back to it) and the other is a stage 5. The duration @ .50 is 257*, the smaller cam was still 230*. both pretty heavy cams from what I can see. I personally liked the smaller cam but it would be on full boost when it came off the stall at 2600. at the moment its basically spooling at that point which isnt really laggy anyway. Its a C4 auto, with the 2600 stall like i said. Also it is a GCG bought turbo but definitely has the proper 3076R tags on it etc. Proper surge port 3037 spec 3076R. The tag has the correct part number and even says 3037S. Ash when I say a tidy 150kw I really mean that it goes well for how pegged back the power is. Like it has a 150kw turbo on it and its happily doing its thing (aside from the fact it will melt down if you hang off it long enough). But I do appreciate 150kw is pathetic for what it is. Frosty as for adding boost as stated weve tried, it just starts to get white hot. Wouldnt wanna push any further. Disco the OE housings for these things cost a packet and a half.. So im really tentative to whack on a .82 and see what happens. You would understand the dynamics of these things better than me, do you think a larger housing could change it that much? I see it shifting the powerband upward but not freeing up 100kw TBH. Im twice as scared to try a 1.06 too. GTSBoy I am fairly confident the WG is working fine as it holds boost really well. No spike, no drop, etc. Turn it up and down with a simple bleed valve. If you think thats not a good indicator of size capacity im ready and willing to listen. It does seem to be spooling way too early though.

Hey guys, NB This is not for my S14, this is for a side project Sigma Turbo that my brother and I built about 5 years ago. The setup: Sigma Astron 2, 2.6L Fresh head, HD valve springs, stock bottom end Two different cams (more info after) Magna EFI manifold, 550cc injectors, MAP based ecu, single coil + dizzy setup Steampipe T3 manifold, 38mm gate plumbed in, full 3" TBE 3076R (3037 spec) w/ .63 AR turbine housing The problem: With the smaller of the two cams, 18psi nets us a tidy 150rwkw. With the larger cam the power is boosted to 170rwkw. Small cam is aimed at power from 2500 to 6000, larger from 4000 to 8000. Regardless of which cam is in the car the car will have nearly instantaneous boost response and fall off power long before 6000rpm. The smaller cam will come off the stall fully loaded and will probably fall off at 5. The bigger (overkill) cam will still come off stall almost fully loaded (no lag) and will run out of puff possibly 700rpm later than the small one. On gate pressure (10psi) it will easily hit 7psi free revving.. It also has no boost control issues, easily controls boost through the 38mm gate without spike or drop. We have a pyrometer in the car which tells us very basic cruising is still above 500 degrees C and a few short burst instantly shoots over 600 degrees. A few extended pulls through first and second will see the turbine housing glow white hot. Almost translucent. AFR's are safely around the 11:1 mark and timing isnt rock bottom or crazy high either, seems to be tuned OK. The tune was done 5 years ago though and the car wasnt really worried about since then. Therefore the tuner really has nothing to say for feedback and were just wanting to progress further with it now. Logic tells me the turbine side is a major restriction but for gods sake its a GT30.... Im worried that investing in a .82 or 1.06ar will only be a bandaid fix and will shift its powerband higher, but still be capping the power similarly where its at now. I feel like the turbine itself is just too small for the motor, and that the motor cant be compared to a more modern motor of similar size. Please share your opinions and help me brainstorm how to get the thing going properly. I have 1000cc injectors ready to go once I work out this turbo issue (if it even is the turbo). Cheers,

Lmao @ stock clutch. That's a good effort Ron! I've been a little worried about my HD with the SS1PU, I reckon its gonna fail..

Built a fresh motor, strapped on a Hypergear. Shoots fireballs like a baws.

Fair enough, sounds good. Post the sheet when you get a chance.

I would go an SS2 using the OP6 rear housing. Later you can easily change to a .82 type B housing if you need more top end

on pootrol98 Methz?

Thanks for clarifying Stao I am trying to round up a couple more customers for you soon.

Stao what are the changes to these new SS1 and SS1.5 compared to my current SS1PU? Can you please confirm sizes. Feel free to PM if its better.

New comp wheel and comp cover only the rest of it is reused. Shouldnt cost much but should be epic as all fek.

But the water does have a negative effect before it has a positive one, unless you are tuning really aggressively with full time WI. If you were to be injecting JUST water and not be touching the tune, just be upping the boost... You would need to crank in a fair bit of boost. Seems OK to me.

I wonder how that would compare to a standard G3 type B... For on road feel anyway. Get the sheet up when you can, I would love to see it.

Good work Ron! How does it feel on the road? Does it compare to the 335kw machine you went in? Also, who tuned it? JEM?

Will do man. Will be tuned in Jan. PM me if you just want to add me on FB, I update photos on my build every week or so.

I think where we differ is our faith in the AFM reading. You seem pretty confident in it but for me I see it as a harmonic sensor, not to be relied upon when changing the setup. I don't think the voltage from one setup to the next on the same AFM would be identical in reading per unit of flow. Just FYI; we are allowed to 'agree to disagree' lol

Stao is that SS1.5 billet wheel different to my SS1PU wheel?

Realistically neither of us can say what will happen, were both just guessing. Assumptions based on an understanding of how the system works. You seem to think theres little that can go wrong as the high load areas are R&R enough to soak up most of whats going on. I think that the change in exhaust restriction (bigger turbine and housing) coupled with the change in compressor efficiency (flow from the wheel aero iteself and difference in housing AR) can result in the ECU reading areas of the map which are irrelevant to what its actually doing. Running at an AFR and ignition combo with will start to see signs of det relatively easily. I think it is far more complex than high load or low load, otherwise we would not waste money on expensive tunes. In my own case Ive had my car tuned OKish rich but with very little timing and it would ping its guts out the moment something wasnt 110%. Have also changed an exhast cam for a slightly larger item (both oem) and completely lost the tune. That tells me the sweet spot for a tune isnt 'thereabouts' in all cases and these things can be pretty sensitive. something I would prefer to advise people against. Not to say Ive never put a T28 on a CA18 and thrashed its guts out as is for years.... But its just not the advice I would like to give, given my other experiences and understanding of how the thing works.

IF it registers on that part of the map. its a digital box basing its map position on inputs, inputs that are irrelevant once you change the fundamentals that create those parameters. Each to their own. If you think its safe, go for it. Otherwise, avoid becoming SAU's flame flavour of the month. I mean its not like there aren't threads on here already which prove it does f**k the motor or anything... Of course not...

The ECU goes to R&R based on a few basic inputs. AFM voltage, TPS, RPM. If the balance of those doesnt add up the ECU will flick into R&R. 1. That doesnt mean the ECU will go into R&R at all, as the R&R is programmed around parameters for the stock turbo. Areas of the map that just dont add up with the new turbo. 2. Theres nothing to stop it knocking before R&R. Again its basing its tune state on those simple parameters so it will be accessing areas of the map which are entirely irrelevant to what its really doing. long story short, it has the ability to lunch the motor very quickly.

Hes got a float sensor/warning light already yeah. I would aim to have it tuned with 2 stages of boost, where the low boost is perfectly fine without the WMI and the high boost is WMI dependant. Best of both worlds

Your referring to vinyl wrap. It's quite common here in Sydney, lots of high end cars like C63, R35 etc are running around in Matte Black. Looks pretty good. How much does your friend charge?

His is a T4 twin scroll, .84 I think they are.

around 70hp each 90 if you search

Too bad your not in Sydney, this is just the job I'm looking for