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GTScotT

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Everything posted by GTScotT

  1. FYI you may still have the set of Rays in your sig because your inbox is full. Clear out some PM's and I reasonably envision that you will receive a PM about those wheels
  2. LOL yeah, cars and money... What more can I say. I do understand. The SS2 would be the .82 Type B housing. Im not sure if thats the same housing as yours or if the older spec is based on a Type A. Either way it would also have FNT, yes.
  3. Well, if you do decide to do it at dont stop at the manifold and gate alone. Get the turbo done too. To convert it to SS2 ex gate it would need a new compressor wheel, new front cover, and a new 5 bolt adaptor for the rear of your existing housing. Core, turbine and rear housing will stay the same AFAIK. That should be cost effective to achieve... Kind of makes me wish I still had a skyline, or at least an RB25 in my 200 lol But I do have THIS!!!:
  4. And probably be better off with a GT3076R regardless. Pretty sure results have shown the regular GT is better on 98 if anything.
  5. It shouldnt cost much to convert your G3 to an SS2. Doo eet.
  6. Nice work Stao! Its good to see the 71mm billet wheel is so potent. Also nice to know I can easily have my SS1PU upgraded into a monster turbo like that if I ever want to upgrade down the track I will have you another SR20 SS1PU result in January. My motor is fully built and will be fitted to the car soon. P.S. I asked previously, but is it possible to get an actuator with a shorter rod? The low pressure actuator on my SS1PU is fully maxed out adjustment wise, and the preload is not as much as I would like.
  7. For anyone curious on the topic of cometic gasket sets, my S14 intermediate gasket (plenum to runners) was also WRONG and didnt fit at all. The gasket seems to be for an S13 and not an S14. Sounds exactly like them selling you a R34 kit with an R33 intermediate gasket. Fags!
  8. We all like to go the whole hog when building a motor but honestly your cam choice and suggested power output are poorly matched. The cams you have mentioned indicate something along the lines of: power starts at 5000rpm and revs to 9000rpm. For myself, if trying to build the fastest 300-350kw RB25 I could it would sport both VCT and 256/9mm Poncams. If you built an identical car, and ran 272/9mm cams at the same suggested power level I can almost guarantee you it will be the slower car. I appreciate this is not what you asked, and that this is exactly what you said you dont want in response, but I believe in giving the right information and not trying to help someone after they have made the wrong purchase. GL
  9. Step 1: sell the titanium exhaust and pocket HEAPS Step 2: buy a quieter exhaust and have HEAPS of change Please don't wreck the Ti exhaust by adding some botch job muffler onto it.. Not sure if you realised but DVS JEZ was joking. Stick welding and oxy cutting are probably the messiest way to do anything, and you probably couldn't even do it with titanium.
  10. ROFL stock bottom end ^
  11. It didn't sound like the turbo mate. Definitely sounded more like alternator feedback than anything else. Did you do anything about your leaking intake gasket?
  12. maybe yours wasnt stock man. Im pretty sure all the factory ones are metal/rubber composite. I remember when Mick's one fkd out on Unigroups dyno I found it because I could hear it playing the metal bit of the gasket like a gumleaf on boost.
  13. Lol meant to say AREN'T. Stao I had to rotate my CHRA for better fitment which wasn't an issue but have noticed the actuator arm is actually too short. I have it set to maximum adjustment and I am only getting about 1/4 circle of preload when I would like to have 1/2 at minimum. is there a slightly shorter actuator I can use or is this it? I have moved the mounting bracket and bent it a little to help but I do not want to go too far with it. It was fine prior due to the angle the chra was on as it gave more distance, but then my oil drain was fouling the drain entry on the block.
  14. I agree, thats much worse than I would expect for the turbo... being an S with a 12cm I would expect it to be laggier than a SL2 10cm BUT by nowhere near that amount.
  15. I hope the cometic S14 gaskets are poo! Ill be fitting up my intake this week.
  16. Was I right that its internal gate though? Just curious? If it is you need to get rid of it in a mad hurry lol
  17. Unfortunately it wont. The SL2 is 61mm but the S is 65mm. Kando doesnt even sell housings for the S no more.. You are better off selling it as is to someone with a bigger motor and swapping it out for a Kando item. Im guessing its also internal gate with that abortion of a 3 bolt discharge? Unrucky. Alternatively, you can send it to Hypergear who will be able to machine up one of his 5 bolt Type B rear housings to make it dance.
  18. Is it a TD06S or TD06SL2? That will change what housing you need to buy. Either way a 20G on a RB25 with whatever rear housing should be running a 10cm. Your 12cm is just making it doughier without benefit. Easily fixed though as mentioned. Also, is it a T3 or genuine trust 3 bolt?
  19. EDIT: You guys seems to be misunderstanding eachother. I think you both know what your on about, just not communicating the same.
  20. Yeah, He's more or less getting 20g results from his 25g turbo. Very weird.
  21. Yep hes in Melb. You should go see him, Im confident he will be able to help you.
  22. Mook what state are you in? Maybe send your rear housing to Stao (Hypergear) and see if says theres a problem with it. He stocks these turbos too at the moment. He will be able to directly compare yours to one of his 10cm's and also be able to check for defects. If its not right he can supply you the new housing.
  23. BSOD while loading page.
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