Piggaz

No. They're 68mm iirc. Tomei series 1's and Midori are 72 mm. There is a brand that is 3 inch but I can't remember right now.

Put the Nismo in. .... Then forget about it. It's been covered a million times. Have a search.

Ah. Well that throws a spanner in the works!

Just sequential it. By the time you buy a full house PPG 5 speed, you're 90% the way there of an OS88.

The smallest you can go in a -5 housing is a 63 mm GTX wheel UNLESS you put a sleeve in the housing. The -5 wheel at some points is larger than the 60 mm GTX wheel.I believe "meathead" was looking down this avenue with the 60 mm in -5 housings.

Is that DAZ? They were 63's now 67's with the large rear housings.

It's been done many times. GCG also told me that my -5's couldn't get orientated to suit a stock position GTR. Sometimes I think they would be better suited to sell shoes.

You still haven't answered the questions. How much power are you after? This will determine the pump size and to some degree the size of the tank needed!

May aswell put on a 7675 then Why would you suggest a turbo that will do the job plus more, then miss the next two sizes between?

Without a trigger With a trigger.

What's the setup? Under car or in boot? What pump/pumps are you using? What sort of driving are you doing to warrant a surge tank?

Ofcourse it was crap. It was a mcnugget 2.6L. How else would you get the low end grunt that Pete wanted without some sort of capacity increase?

A rb26 should not go back in it's hole without a real front diff IMO. One of the best mods I've done to date. Totally transforms the car coming out of corners.

The excuse was that "it was setup for a 2.6L".

Have not seen a result yet, but the 6062 is rated at 750 hp and the 6262 is rated at 705 hp.What that translates into real works figures, who knows, but it's definately interesting. Smaller front fan but can flow more... Win win!!!!

Why? Leave the stocker in there. Don't fix something that isn't broken!

Surprised you didn't go the 6062, Pete.

That's a blast from the past, Andrew!!

When I asked Terry at Award about this he said forget it. It won't last. He fixes "heaps of them" However, you don't hear many busting. Who knows

Ring them and ask?

Who is your tuner? Take it there and run it up!

Might need a drop down menu for the 20 k gearbox you'll need to handle the twist of something like that...

Of you find a good condition stock engine and then fit new bearings and rings, ain't you just rebuilding it? Where are you located?

What I mean by building a 2.6 is a waste of time is this. If you need a new crank, rods and pistons plus paying someone to screw it together and allllll the costs (oil and water pumps, gaskets blah blah) what's the difference in cost of going a bigger bottom end? The bigger bottom end will be a little more exxy, sure. But the end result is so much better. (Some would argue it doesn't sound as good or whatever they dribble on about but that's another debate). Now, being low mounts (say 2530's or so) and say you cap power at 350 - 380 kw and not spin it to the moon (7000-7500 max rpm), why do you need to build it? The lasts two attempts have failed. You would have been better off whacking a stocker in it, getting it tuned and away you go. Odds are it would have lasted ALOT longer and driven exactly the same (save for compression differences which wont make a night and day difference anyway)